DIY Homebuilt Battery Booster/corded jump box

[tvnacman]

Can you you guys think of a way to use back emf from a psc motor. Perhaps connected to a pulley on an internal combustion engine.

get ready google !!!!!!!!! lol

John

[2stroked]

Physically, I can imagine a method to implement, but right now I am having a serious brain fart, that's stopping me from seeing why we would. I know the answer is obvious but its escaping me a the moment.

[2stroked]

Unless its implemented in a similar way t tg Prius regenerative braking system,or a digital tach......



I will google it and see what comes uo

[FrankenMech]

A PM motor yes, but a psc motor develops very little voltage from residual magnetism. Back emf is essentially what limits current when energized under power.

We use a three phase motor as a rotary transformer when it is rotated and energized by single phase power to provide a third phase in a rotary phase converter. The efficiency is not the greatest but the cost is better than paying service fees for three transformers on a pole when three phase power is available.

[2stroked]

With a pm motor attached to a rear clutch pulley, could be useful as a powered assist function. With a controller wired to the motor using a feedback loop from tgre tach and a sensor to located level of belt travel, a secondary controller can cause the motor to add torque to the pulley, effectively raising the speed. Hell with the addition of a regulator a DC motor could be used as a generator to power DC components and charge the battery. Too expensive to research, anda little impractical.

[FrankenMech]

I have a Case 446 16hp Onan opposed piston powered garden tractor 'project' sitting in my garage. I don't intend to mow with it. My grass yard is 60x15' so I use a self-propelled 'push' mower. All I plan on doing with it is moving a trailer and plowing snow. It has a belt drive power takeoff (PTO) that was used for a mower deck. I intend to use the PTO to spin an alternator with internal regulator to charge a full size car battery. That way I can use the big battery to jump vehicles, run the LED lights, electric fuel pump, Ford TFI ignition system, etc. I will disconnect the engine stator. It also has the capability to run a hydraulic PTO.

[2stroked]

If it's an older model tractor, with the real gear drive and not a " hydraulic " drive, then its a bast,anbwill move the snow with a four or five foot blade easy. Had a similar one, that my brother in law and I turned into a " dozer drive " tractor, by modifying the rear rims. With no rear tires, we took two inch angle iron, cut it in 9 1/2 inch pieces, cut the rims,and welded the angle iron on t the wheels to act like a dozer tread. Worked great, as long as you were heavy enough to keep the rear end from jumping. We used it in he woods when we were cutting pin posts for he mill. It would chain and snake six eight foot long eight to ten inch pine logs up and across hills easy,down hill was a biatch.

[FrankenMech]

The Case 446 is a full hydraulic drive, not a hydrostatic drive. It has a hydraulic gear pump directly coupled to the motor crankshaft, F/R directional valve, and a priority valve for speed. The engine can be operated at a high speed all the time to provide max flow and pressure to the hydraulics since speed is controlled by a hydraulic valve. They are very powerful machines. A hydraulic motor drives the rear two speed differential unit. The F/R valve can be shifted either way to instantly cause the 8" wide tires on a 16" rim to spin in the respective direction, -a real burnout machine. The priority flow control valve directs oil to the drive first with any remaining flow directed to operating accessories like plow blade controls etc. This model should have a flow control valve to keep the drive from running away downhill. I just have not dug down to the hydraulics yet to find out. If it does not have that valve I will install one. There is an engine driven belt drive PTO with a clutch for driving a mower deck, snow blower, or aux hydraulic motor for attachments.

Youtube vids for a 446 almost like mine (small differences), but of course mine will have some modifications...
www.youtube.com/watch?v=OX4jUYD1A4o
www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3MC2IseP18
www.youtube.com/watch?v=1RmxgYmN3pA

Notice people use chains to improve traction with the OEM turf tires. Some people replace the turf tires with AG tires.

[2stroked]

When using the Hydra drive tractors, I actually find it easier and at times safer to run the rear tires about five or ten pounds low. That way the machine has excellent traction.

I like the little tractors with the hydraulic PTO pump, but personally prefer a belt or even the older chain drive differential units.

Used to have an old a Montgomery Ward tractor with a chain drive four speed diff powered by a ten horse single cylinder side shaft engine. That one had a sickle bar mower attachment. The chain ran from the engine, to the gear box to another gear box that powered the deck and sickle bar. That SOB could make waste of some heavy brush, and even saplings up to around 1" dia. I miss that little thing.....

[FrankenMech]

The hydraulic drive on the Case 44X series tractor is way different from a hydrostatic drive which is used in most modern equipment. Few people know the difference. Most people only experience the hydrostatic drive, often called hydra drive used in a lot of light duty garden tractors.

This Case 446 has both hydraulic and belt PTO options. The PTO belt can be used to drive shafts, gear reducers for chains, aux hydraulic pumps and mower decks. The hydraulic PTO can be used for snow plows, snow blowers, mower decks, brush hogs or sickle bars, log splitters, front loaders, backhoe attachments, etc. Many attachments were available. They are very expensive now.

The huge tires are much bigger that standard garden tractors which increases the contact patch without lowering pressure. A larger diameter tire rolls easier. The Case 44X tractors have so much torque they can easily break traction with the OEM turf tires which is why chains or AG (tractor) tires are often used.

My Case only has turf tires but I have chains for them. I have thought about cutting out every other row of tire lugs to make them a little more like AG tires. I also have a mower deck but I may sell it.

[2stroked]

The Hydra Drive I am speaking of is the type that utilizes a single " gear " lever that controls speed by its position. The farther forward, the faster it drives. Its usually a combination of an hydraulic pump and a CVT type transmission. A decent option fr flat ground, but will fail quickly on steep hills.

I prefer the actual gear driven transaxles on the older mowers and small tractors. I have seen ONE oldcase garden tractor, it used a massive side saft engine, with a bell housing And a real miniature standard transmission with a cable clutch mechanism. Awesome, and nearly unstoppable. It also had fourteen inch car tires on four lug wheels, like a lot of the OLD Work Horse tractors. I would nearly kill a man or an old work horse.

No matter how the tractr you have is built, if it will do what you need it to, its great.. My yard is roughly eighty percent hill, and nearly an acre and a half total area, including an eighty lot by twenty foot hillside in between the road and my house. A lot of time is spent weed eating and push mowing, takes about fourth five minutes on the rider,and almost two hours with the push an a straight shaft weed eater..,..

[FrankenMech]

Take a look at those links. There are other links that will show up when you visit those. The rear tires on my Case 446 are 16" wheels with a 6-lug (Toyota?) pattern wheel. The transmission is all hydraulic infinitely variable both forward and reverse controlled by a lever to the right and below the steering wheel connected to a valve, but no belt is involved.

The engine is an air cooled ONAN twin cylinder 16hp engine with horizontal front-rear crankshaft that drives everything hydraulic through a direct coupled hydraulic pump in the rear. The forward side of the engine has a PTO for a belt with a lever-operated friction clutch on the shaft, not a belt tensioner type setup. The engine also drives a front fan that pulls air through a hydraulic oil cooler/radiator. The hydraulic oil reservoir sits above the front radiator.

The transaxle is driven by a hydraulic motor into a two speed gearbox controlled by a lever below the driver. The brake is a band brake on the end of the motor shaft. I have a complete spare transaxle with motor.

The Case 44X (the X designates the HP, 12,14,16,18,?) series tractors are unlike any of the other 'toy' garden tractors people buy today. On your hill it would definitely need a roll cage I may add one anyway to protect my leather seat out of a Jaguar.

On my sloped yard it takes longer to get the self-propelled mower out, check the oil, and fill it with gas than it takes to mow the 15'x60' patch of grass. I have a second mower I call FrankenMower that I purchased at a garage sale for $10. It has an aluminum deck that I have cut out between the wheels to expose the blades. I use it as a brush mower in the fall to cut down the flower gardens, trees, or the telephone pole.

I have a 42-48"? mower deck for the tractor that I don't really need. I should put it back on so I only have to maintain one powered mower. It would add more traction weight for pushing snow. I am not sure how I would hook up the mower deck height adjustment and the snow blade lift function since they both use the same hydraulic cylinder bellcrank mechanism. I would probably just 'fix' the mower height.

[2stroked]

Cool. Don't see many smaller Case machines around these parts, like I said I have only seen one. The hydraulic drive system you are talking about is the original Hydra Drive system, the newer junk uses a belt and tensioner clutch to drive a pump that drives a type of CVT.

I truly miss my old Work Horse. If I had it still, I would find a way to mount my Helix engine to it!!!!!lol

They were beasts, weighing in at six fourth with the deck(48-62) and the sycle bar(48-60). The one I had came with a fourteen horse side shaft, that I built up and ran till I overheated it and warped a valve. Then I just ditched it in favor of a twin cylinder twenty horse Kholer from a massive brown water pump.


We had an old Case dozer when I was little, the diesel engine threw a rod, so my father and uncles adapted a fourclinder Chevette engine and four speed manual to attach to the torquerod leading to the dozers transmission. Turned it into a gas dozer with double gear reduction to compensateforhe lost torque. I swear that thing could have moved a house!!!! Beast mode brother!!

In the barn right now I have an older three cylinder diesel Kubota engine that I hope to someday miunton an old work horse or similar tractor. I miss that damn machine. That was the only yard tractor I never needed to modify for speed. It really didn't like turning at full speed (12mph),but was able to tow a full size Chevy Silverado with a load of fire wood in the back.

[FrankenMech]

Impressive stable you have there!

The newer drives are usually what is called a hydrostatic drive. They come in all sizes and power levels. They are complex but do a good job within their capabilities. They can be driven by a belt or shaft or directly. They are basically a hydraulic CVT with a 'fluid' belt. Like a CVT belt the fluid gets very hot. The slippage or leakage is made up by a charge pump from a reservoir.

You are correct the Case 44x have the original Hydra-drive. There are many variations of that tractor series with various capabilities and equipment. There is a 6xx series with things like front loaders. There is a smaller 3xx series that are more like HD lawn tractors with smaller wheels but still bigger than most of today's lawn tractors. They are interesting machines and all of them are beasts. There are many attachments available, very expensive, and sought after by collectors. I don't collect tractors so I will just be using mine. I will make careful modifications and retain any original parts/pieces I remove or replace.

The newer pro-level 4-wheel drive tractors (like Kubotas) are a big step up though and very expensive.
www.ebay.com/itm/like/222114198186?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

[2stroked]

Anymore, tractors are being built more like huge ass SUVs than the tractors we used to have.

I kinda hated, and kinda loved running the tractor, dust flying, diesel exhaust flying in your face, the while thing jarring and bounci g along, the sun pouring down on ya, and the heat of the engine less than a foot away being blown back on you by the cooling fan. The new generation needs to expierience that, before they cry and bitch about working the fields in an air conditioned, air ride equipped, closed cab tractor/SUV hybrids that are everywhere now.


The old Case dozer has been gone for many years now. A track broke, and the tensioner arm seals went and the traveler gear snapped off all at the same time. Repairs would have been more than the thing was worth.....if I remember right the track was 2500 the gear another grand and the tensioner another fifteen hundred..... But, I was able to sell a few of the good pieces, and I got almost four grand just from the sold parts and the junk weight.