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Post by ThomasTPFL on Sept 17, 2016 9:25:42 GMT -5
What differences have you run across between the "Replica" edition and standard versions?
I noticed that you have a 19mm carb, but in the shop manual I ran across they show a 14mm carb, wondering if that's one change. My carb doesn't belong on this bike so I have no comparison there.
Also in parts lists I'm seeing different brake calipers between the two, grey standard and blue Replica, the blue are always pricier. Don't know if there is any difference other than color but my Predator has blue calipers so does my friends Atlantis.
And what about that weird flecked brown/purple Derbi frame paint?
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Post by pinkscoot on Sept 17, 2016 10:24:03 GMT -5
I'm still researching them so I'm not up on the differences. I saw that the manual said they were a 14mm carb and my carb is a weber OM14 but when I measure it its 19mm and the inlet is 19mm. Mine is a replica with all of the stickers and a plate with the number in the series. My brakes are the blue brakes as well. I like the frame color, its different, I'd call it more of a bronze.
This is my frame color. Last night I found this google group that kept me up very late reading. Most of the posts are from our 1998-2002 so there is some history there. Lots of tips that I haven't found elsewhere. A good one to know is the plug gap should be .5mm nothing more nothing less, anything else and it runs funny. I'll try and update you as I find things.
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Post by ThomasTPFL on Sept 17, 2016 11:40:03 GMT -5
The carb is sized by the throat, not the inlet/outlet. That'd be what's throwing you off. I've seen from 12mm-19mm throat carbs that have the same outlet inner diameter.
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Post by pinkscoot on Sept 17, 2016 16:16:19 GMT -5
I had a chance to look at it today and the throat is much smaller. I am planning to replace it with a 19mm very soon because I can't find jets for the stock weber.
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Post by pinkscoot on Sept 17, 2016 16:31:27 GMT -5
I got everything running today it idled nice and raved well on the stand. Took it out and it headed up the street fine had a lot of power. stopped at the sign like a good citizen and made the turn and nothing, it started sputtering and had nothing. made it to the next turn and it was still dead on the level. Turned back down hill and it was okay but died when I turned back on my street. Put it back on the stand and it would sputter when I revved it up and held it. I then pulled the carb and cleaned the main jet, it looked like a speck of something in it. Checked the float because it felt like it wasn't getting fuel, all was good. Put it together and started it and it still sputtered and missed at half to full throttle. I checked the compression and it was about 108psi, put oil in and it went to 125psi, My compression gauge is not a HF and has given me much higher readings. Checked squish and it's 1.3mm. could the lower compression be my problem? I read this post where compression was a problem but there was no resolution. The scoot is still stock so jetting shouldn't be that far off. I am planning a new carburetor maybe something from this century that jets are readily available. With compression at 108psi I really do need new rings, I thought the piston slipped in to easy. Of course this would be the perfect excuse to go BBK. Please any help would be appreciated.
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Post by 190mech on Sept 17, 2016 16:59:58 GMT -5
1.3mm is a lot!Need to get it down to .6 to .7...
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Post by pinkscoot on Sept 17, 2016 17:23:40 GMT -5
Would adding a base gasket be a problem if the piston is already below the port? The engine is LC so I don't see how to add it to the top.
Edit: Oh yea I need to take it away from some place. I would have to mill the cylinder down because the head has the gaskets for the LC. Any suggestions on how to do that?
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Post by ThomasTPFL on Sept 17, 2016 18:21:04 GMT -5
Vespa uses Weber carbs, seems jets shouldn't be too hard to find. I'd measure the threads and see. I could have sworn they take the same jets as something more common, Mikuni maybe?
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Post by pinkscoot on Sept 17, 2016 18:21:29 GMT -5
Here is a video of it at 3/4 throttle:
I'm holding the throttle steady and the oil is all from the pump no premix.Some of the smoke is from the oil I put in for the compression test but it was smoking a lot before that. Any clues as to what the problem is?
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Post by ThomasTPFL on Sept 17, 2016 18:23:36 GMT -5
Is it smoke or steam?
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Post by pinkscoot on Sept 17, 2016 18:24:29 GMT -5
Vespa uses Weber carbs, seems jets shouldn't be too hard to find. I'd measure the threads and see. I could have sworn they take the same jets as something more common, Mikuni maybe? I have a nice mix of jets and they don't seem to match, I'll did deeper tomorrow.
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Post by 190mech on Sept 17, 2016 18:29:36 GMT -5
Would adding a base gasket be a problem if the piston is already below the port? The engine is LC so I don't see how to add it to the top. Edit: Oh yea I need to take it away from some place. I would have to mill the cylinder down because the head has the gaskets for the LC. Any suggestions on how to do that? You need to place a thinner base gasket(or none with proper sealant) to get the squish and the ports even with the piston top at BDC..niz76 doesnt use base gaskets in some of his builds,,perhaps he could chime in!!
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Post by pinkscoot on Sept 17, 2016 18:30:26 GMT -5
When I first saw your question I thought where would steam come from. Uhh, its water cooled but no it's smoke. I have been keeping an eye on the coolant level and its been steady.
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Post by pinkscoot on Sept 17, 2016 18:33:20 GMT -5
You need to place a thinner base gasket(or none with proper sealant) to get the squish and the ports even with the piston top at BDC..niz76 doesnt use base gaskets in some of his builds,,perhaps he could chime in!! I must say I like my copper spray and that would probably do it. The original gasket was very thin. I have a project for the morning. and of course I have to drain the coolant once again, thats why I'm just using water for now.
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 17, 2016 21:15:29 GMT -5
I have used ThreeBond without a base gasket. I would think any of the stuff we use to seal the cases should work. Permatex Motoseal is also popular.
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