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Post by kagetenshi on Aug 22, 2016 21:48:38 GMT -5
Leave it if you want more traction when stopping on a slippery surface. Remove it if you want more control over your braking capability. I have needed to lock my brakes and dump my ass tto the pavement on more than one occasion. Just my 2 cents.
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Post by fts902 on Aug 22, 2016 21:55:23 GMT -5
I bought some things  Should be arriving by the 29th |
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Post by dan50 on Aug 22, 2016 23:26:58 GMT -5
Some guys do remove the ABS. It does take a bit of knowledge though. I remembered reading a thread about removing ABS. My Dongfang 4t has ABS, I was testing the brakes and under a hard stop the front wheel will chirp as it grabs & skids, then lets go and repeats. My thinking is, unless you really want to lock up your front tire in a skid while braking, leave the ABS on. A locked up front tire can easily cause you to eat pavement. |
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Post by dan50 on Aug 22, 2016 23:29:20 GMT -5
Buying stuff for my scoots is always fun. I'm like a kid at Christmas waiting for them to arrive.
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 23, 2016 7:58:14 GMT -5
I usually remove the ABS, mostly because it doesn't seem to do a lot for me. With ABS they would still lock the tire on wet surfaces, and otherwise I didn't have any issues that I'd need ABS for. Possibly safer to leave it, but should be fine to get rid of it. There are bikes with much beefier brakes than we have that are not ABS.
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Post by fts902 on Aug 25, 2016 23:34:34 GMT -5
After doing some research on parts, I've discovered sticking with a 50 is pointless.
BBK cylinder and head, A9 cam and 20mm Carb is going to run me 250 even before tuning the CVT.
Where as, I can buy a brand new 150 for around 300 shipped. I'm sure I can find one for less used and local.
Anyone have one lying around?
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Post by dan50 on Aug 26, 2016 12:41:25 GMT -5
After doing some research on parts, I've discovered sticking with a 50 is pointless. BBK cylinder and head, A9 cam and 20mm Carb is going to run me 250 even before tuning the CVT. Where as, I can buy a brand new 150 for around 300 shipped. I'm sure I can find one for less used and local. Anyone have one lying around? Going for some serious power! Will a 150cc mount to a 50cc without any welding or serious metal work? I don't have a welder. Make sure you upgear for some top end speed. I love the idea! |
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Post by fts902 on Aug 26, 2016 14:33:19 GMT -5
AGATT after this swap for sure!
Mounting will require modification. The 50cc GY6 is bottom mount and the 150cc GY6 is top mount.
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Post by fts902 on Aug 26, 2016 16:13:22 GMT -5
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Post by dexameth on Aug 26, 2016 18:36:47 GMT -5
So did you rewire the entire bike or just move CDI and battery to the seat box? I love the way this thing is turning out!
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Post by dan50 on Aug 26, 2016 20:08:35 GMT -5
Definitely going for the naked look.
Is that a chain of bullets hanging from below the handlebars? If so, COOL!
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Post by fts902 on Aug 27, 2016 8:43:40 GMT -5
So did you rewire the entire bike or just move CDI and battery to the seat box? I love the way this thing is turning out! Just the CDI, battery and as much slack as I can get for now. I'm making a custom harness out of one from my parts bike. I'm still looking for the right battery box (ammo can) and its location. Depending on the amount of stretch it may be mounted where the current motor mount sits. |
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Post by fts902 on Sept 2, 2016 18:12:14 GMT -5
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Post by fts902 on Sept 2, 2016 18:21:50 GMT -5
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Post by dan50 on Sept 2, 2016 18:23:27 GMT -5
Cut the plastic battery box from the floor piece, that will give you a start. With the battery box it will give you a good idea of the size & where it will fit. Even mounting the battery box under the seat (you'll lose some storage space), make a bracket that bolts to the 2 bottom studs and the bolt that goes in the front of the seat (on the inside of seat).
Hope that gives you a starting place to work with.
Dan
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