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Post by Lucass2T on Apr 1, 2018 8:17:47 GMT -5
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Post by benji on Apr 1, 2018 12:46:47 GMT -5
That's what I'm talkin bout. Those are some real ports right there.
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Post by 190mech on Apr 1, 2018 15:57:01 GMT -5
OH!And that wide cylinder stud spacing!!  |
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Post by tsimi on Apr 2, 2018 6:22:07 GMT -5
Looks like I will have to place an order this week so I was thinking of adding the temp stuff for the LC build.
Now what temps do I need to keep an eye on?
What about the hole on the cylinder head? What temps does that check?
What would I need to be able to check the radiator coolant temps?
And where would be the smartest place to place such radiator temps?
Gauges? Which one can display all those temps?
Thus far I got a CHT from TrailTech and a Koso DB-02R gauge.
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Post by 'O'Verse on Apr 2, 2018 7:22:23 GMT -5
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Post by tsimi on Apr 2, 2018 7:53:08 GMT -5
Cool thanks for the pics. Very helpful.  The Koso DB-02R gauge has also dual temp and from what I can see I just need to buy the sensors. The head one is PT1/8 right? and the other you have for the hose is 16mm is that correct? So no spark plug CHT needed right? |
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Post by 'O'Verse on Apr 2, 2018 19:37:31 GMT -5
That is correct. I wouldn't use a spark plug ring sensor for head temp on a LC build. It'll always read higher than the fluid if I'm not mistaken. But either of those sensors should be accurate enough. As long as your monitoring your temps period. With the in line sensor you can make sure that cooler water is still in circulation towards the head. If that makes sense. The only reason I chose the Stage6 is its run off of a internal battery with an optional 12v hook up. I dont have lighting on my inner rotor. So it doesn't draw from my battery. And if your color picky. Koso makes the blue in line and I think it's trailtech that makes a red one. But don't quote me on that!
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Post by ryan_ott on Apr 2, 2018 20:06:38 GMT -5
CHT on a LC scoot is far off then what your used to with the ac motors. They are well over 100* cooler. I’ve always run the head temp sensor alone and just occasionally reached down and touched the radiator to see that it was still warm. (no burst hoses)
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Post by Lucass2T on Apr 3, 2018 16:54:31 GMT -5
Watertemp is only useful for determining if you're running on operating temp and choosing the right radiator size. You can't really use it for preventing overheating, unless you're pushing your cooling system to max output constantly. And that only happens when the radiator is too small or a kinked radiator. You can't forsee lean running conditions. I'd use a EGT for that.
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Post by tsimi on Apr 3, 2018 17:32:55 GMT -5
I'm gonna run a dual radiator setup like spaz12 had and overse currently has on his 94cc. I think that should be more than enough to handle a 70cc hyper race setup.
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Post by tsimi on Apr 5, 2018 8:20:40 GMT -5
Finally got some JB weld. Filled the cases so I'll be ready for trenching on the weekend. I am sure some of you guys have seen JB weld before probably more than once. But you sure have never seen the Japanese version of it. Double the price same contents.  |
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Post by Lucass2T on Apr 5, 2018 8:42:10 GMT -5
Is there actually something in Japan thats cheaper than in the rest of the world?  |
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Post by tsimi on Apr 5, 2018 8:47:38 GMT -5
Is there actually something in Japan thats cheaper than in the rest of the world? Very good question. Let me think... Sorry, nope nothing comes to mind. Oh and did I menton that they only sell those tiny tubes over here. What are those 1oz (28.4g)? They have larger tubes in the US right? |
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Post by benji on Apr 5, 2018 9:17:42 GMT -5
I think you mean 2.8oz haha. Ya we get bigger ones than that but maybe like twice as big. Here's a 10oz package. I think it's like $15 or so. It's $71/6-pack  For when stuffs REALLY goin bad. |
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Post by tsimi on Apr 5, 2018 9:56:51 GMT -5
God damn it! That's what I paid for those tiny 1oz tubes.
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