|
|
Post by jeff84 on Nov 13, 2016 1:35:16 GMT -5
thanks I guess that is the cheapest solution so I guess I will try that first. and well I already ordered that controller so I will probably still install the booster fans if deemed fit. other wise I got two fans and a controller to find something to do with
|
|
|
|
Post by jeff84 on Nov 13, 2016 1:41:38 GMT -5
Your blower probably has all the airflow that is needed. Use the register dampers in existing registers to regulate airflow. If your registers do not have built-in dampers consider buying some that do. Unfortunately people will 'fiddle' with them. Otherwise, -just put some duct damper valves in all of the ducts and use them to regulate flow as required. Like these: www.homedepot.com/p/6-in-Damper-D-6/100396929Or these: www.homedepot.com/p/SPEEDI-COLLAR-6-in-Take-Off-Start-Collar-with-Damper-for-HVAC-Duct-Work-Connections-SC-06D/202542804Shut the dampers by half in those places with plenty of airflow and go from there. Restricting the airflow in short runs will force more air through the longer runs or runs with more bends. The advantage to duct dampers in the line is that they can be adjusted and even tightened so that people can't mess with them as easily. do they come in a variety that can be installed inline on flex duct? as opposed to being collared |
|
|
|
Post by jeff84 on Nov 13, 2016 1:42:57 GMT -5
I also have some 4 inch ducting all I would need is reducers to choke off that damn flow stealing bathroom.
|
|
|
|
Post by FrankenMech on Nov 13, 2016 3:40:57 GMT -5
Check out "duct damper" listings similar to the ones I listed. Flow dampers come collared, pre-installed in duct sections, and as just flat valves you install. With a short section of round duct, or the duct section type, they can be installed in flex or insulated ductwork.
The duct dampers are adjustable so they work far better than just reducing the size of the ductwork in places like your bath. You may find that you have to adjust the bath duct valve to almost zero. The dampers do not fit 100% tight in the duct so they always leak some flow. Since they don't seal 100% they have some 'slop' for installation.
The lowest bid HVAC installers do not install many duct dampers (if any) because it increases material and labor costs.
You can always save the booster fans for a last ditch problem solution or to use in that room addition later.
|
|
|
|
Post by jeff84 on Nov 13, 2016 3:41:52 GMT -5
the more I read, the more I wish I had the money to make it all right. my hvac system seems to have been an after thought. whish I knew about this sort of thing before I bought a house
|
|
|
|
Post by FrankenMech on Nov 13, 2016 3:49:09 GMT -5
Older homes are much less likely to be air-conditioner friendly. The ductwork for forced air heat is usually smaller than the ductwork for air-conditioning. Most HVAC systems are installed by low buck slam it in quick installers. I saw two crews install HVAC systems in identical houses recently. The more experienced crew did a better job but that is not always the case.
There were two construction companies in my home town. One worked on a cost plus basis. The other worked on a fixed bid basis. Guess which one was the best.
|
|
|
|
Post by jeff84 on Nov 13, 2016 4:16:49 GMT -5
my house was built in 1995. it was installed (from what the previous owners says by "Mexicans") to me that sounds like cheap unskilled laborers.
|
|
|
|
Post by jeff84 on Nov 13, 2016 4:22:38 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by FrankenMech on Nov 13, 2016 5:08:26 GMT -5
Your house is new enough to have ductwork sized appropriately for airconditioning.
|
|
tvnacman
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 408
Location: NYC
|
Post by tvnacman on Nov 13, 2016 9:30:15 GMT -5
There is a lot involved in sizing heating and cooling equipment. Get your google fingers walking. It all starts with a building envelope. Something called a "heat loss" calculation or a "load loss" then a total load heat loss. Then the correct unit size can be selected. CFM based on load for each room is calculated then totaled. It needs to be equal to spec from the air handler/furnace air flow. The CFM and static pressure needs to be in spec with duct size and air flow/cfm requirements.
Frank has suggested what seems to be your best solution at the lowest cost.
Now revisit your duct work armed with this, flex duct is very restrictive. It should be pulled straight and tight and should not be out of round around beams or headers. Discharge grills/registers should have dampers on them. Flex duct should have support every 6-8 feet. Use hard fittings in bends to not create restrictions.
John
|
|
|
|
Post by lordhater on Nov 13, 2016 10:15:02 GMT -5
My sentiments exactly frank ,,,I'd do it with dampers,,,I have a two story,,,I shut all first floor dampers in summer and all the second floor dampers in winter,,,works like a charm
|
|
|
|
Post by humanshield on Nov 13, 2016 10:51:59 GMT -5
Your blower probably has all the airflow that is needed. Use the register dampers in existing registers to regulate airflow. If your registers do not have built-in dampers consider buying some that do. Unfortunately people will 'fiddle' with them. Otherwise, -just put some duct damper valves in all of the ducts and use them to regulate flow as required. Like these: www.homedepot.com/p/6-in-Damper-D-6/100396929Or these: www.homedepot.com/p/SPEEDI-COLLAR-6-in-Take-Off-Start-Collar-with-Damper-for-HVAC-Duct-Work-Connections-SC-06D/202542804Shut the dampers by half in those places with plenty of airflow and go from there. Restricting the airflow in short runs will force more air through the longer runs or runs with more bends. The advantage to duct dampers in the line is that they can be adjusted and even tightened so that people can't mess with them as easily. This seems like the common sense, easiest approach  |
|
|
|
Post by sumo210 on Nov 14, 2016 9:32:12 GMT -5
I work for a Hvac company doing bids and building blueprints, If i were you i would take a look at the duct, im not sure where your located but down here in san antonio you can afford to reduct your ac but running it properly your self for maybe 2-3 hundred bucks. i mean flex duct is very affordable. if you could get a video of what the ductwork looks like i can draw up a very simple plan for you or if you like i could do a whole certified one for free but i would need the blueprint for your house.
|
|
