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Post by RollingThunder on Oct 31, 2017 18:47:43 GMT -5
That tach is pretty cool! How's it been working? Does it seem accurate?
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Post by diynuke on Nov 13, 2017 17:53:18 GMT -5
That tach is pretty cool! How's it been working? Does it seem accurate? Sorry for the late reaction Well it does work great for the low range but above 7k it goes a bit crazy xD it is going crazy between 8 and 9.5 k but yeah i didn't expect too much for 12euro's/12bucks the bracket did break tho so i do have to repair that but the shop where i work where i can repair it got in some trouble so i will have to wait until they get back on track (money issue's) Overall the light's look very nice at night |
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Post by diynuke on Nov 13, 2017 17:59:19 GMT -5
Okay i am getting crazy again xD
Charging voltage back at 18v again and electric start will only work now when its a bit warm outside so out of the shed and at school it just doesn't have the UMPF to turn over so the battery is bad again. Of course beceause of the high charging voltage but i can't really find out what causes it since i already replaced it 4x with a new one
and all the stuff that i installed are wired directly to the battery so that isn't a possibilty that power could come from there..
now i do know that there are 2 resistors tucked away deep in the scoot which turn on when you turn off the light's but that shouldn't be the problem. but i guess i will look up the schematic and add a resistor and replace the regulator again.
and my kickstart also is bad and i replaced it some time ago and it really really goes bad fast and idk why.. when you kick it just crunches past the gears so i guess i just should replace the gear on the variation instead of only the gear that comes down
now ill ride with the grand retro to my work for now but it is annoying tho.
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Post by diynuke on Dec 29, 2017 16:21:38 GMT -5
 would this kit be worth it? today i failed at a little drag race with a stock 50cc scoot i just couldn't keep up so something isn't alright. so i am thinking of further upgrading the cvt since only the variator is changed. and i think i need to tinker with my gas needle. so then i will need to order a different gas needle since the stock one doesn't have notches in it to adjust so i could do it with a small spacer but i am not a fan of that. and i am also thinking of a new airfilter to get some more power i think i can squeeze way more power out of the 72cc kit |
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Post by diynuke on Feb 16, 2018 5:59:05 GMT -5
Finally its done.. now it still has to be tig welded on my exhaust pipe. and yes it stainless steel. ill show the 02 sensor and gauge when it's finished I will also make a small vid for my channel about it I am really curious how good it works and if i am way too rich or too lean. and its an narrowband sensor so the cheaper version of the wideband sensor.  |
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Post by benji on Feb 16, 2018 10:08:08 GMT -5
I would spring for a wideband sensor. Narrow band sensors usually just give enough info to say "rich" or "lean" but don't give an actual reliable stoich value. Wideband kits w gauge and o2 sensor seem to be like $150-200 with everything.
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Post by diynuke on Feb 17, 2018 13:30:30 GMT -5
I would spring for a wideband sensor. Narrow band sensors usually just give enough info to say "rich" or "lean" but don't give an actual reliable stoich value. Wideband kits w gauge and o2 sensor seem to be like $150-200 with everything. this kit was 150 Eur so well it was a bit expensive for what it is.. the wideband kit was 300eur. so yeah i didn't want so spend that much Yet. i will make an small testing rig so i can put it on any scooter then i just would need to weld a bung on it and after that i can plug it again and then check it every year. altho the spark plug says just as much but it doesn't tell you of course when its lean or rich and that's the problem i am having now. but yeah i am curious how good it will work. |
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Post by benji on Feb 17, 2018 16:08:29 GMT -5
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Post by diynuke on Mar 3, 2018 17:51:37 GMT -5
okay good news i got the o2 sensor installed. and it works!   
 on the last picture the weld is pickeld. it has been tig welded by a professional welder.. I did make a big mistake on the position of the bung it should be between 9 and 3 o clock so pointing the back of the sensor up. now its a bit on 4/5 o clock ish but air is forced through the holes on the sensor so it should work without any problems. I re jeted the carb from main jet 88 to 82 and the air mixture screw is also adjusted quite a bit (richer) ill add 2 youtube link's later one is a bit dutch but well i am just talking there about what i am doing on that moment. |
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Post by diynuke on Mar 3, 2018 18:52:49 GMT -5
Okay i uploaded the vid's One is just the exhaust. Exhaust bang vidthis one is adjusting the idle mixture. Adjusting mixturethe backfire's in the pipe really aint good for the sensor of course and the rev limiter really make's the sensor redhot as you can see at the end when i go full gas. If you want to know what i am saying at that exact moment just say the time and i will translate it for you |
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 4, 2018 8:07:16 GMT -5
Seems to work better than I anticipated. If you do some trial and error tuning to find the best performance, seeing where the gauge stays at WOT should give you an idea if it's accurate. Should hang around 12-14:1 range usually for best performance WOT. Not sure if they tell you where that's supposed to be in the lights. Guessing the first few green lights (toward center).
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Post by diynuke on Mar 4, 2018 17:28:23 GMT -5
Seems to work better than I anticipated. If you do some trial and error tuning to find the best performance, seeing where the gauge stays at WOT should give you an idea if it's accurate. Should hang around 12-14:1 range usually for best performance WOT. Not sure if they tell you where that's supposed to be in the lights. Guessing the first few green lights (toward center). the orange part isn't really the best part to be in it does burn all the fuel so it is almost the most fuel efficient. but it doesn't have the most power. its indeed a bit richer where it has the most power. but the downside of a narrow band sensor is that the curve is really steep so it lean or rich nothing between when i turned the air fuel mixture screw i almost didn't turn it at all. but it does give a good indication when it is rich and when it's lean. in my case the idle was really really lean. and the rest really rich so this explain's why my spark plug was white and black at the same time. Ah and by the way i just got a new voltage regulator this time a genuine kymco regulator. so i hope this time that it doesn't go to 17v..... and a new battery too the old one just wouldn't crank over. (because of damage done from the high voltage....) And something experimental for me. A pair of Oxford heated grips ;D i am hoping to install them in the following days. still cold weather here so well... ah and about the best performance well it's hard to notice anything different the changes are really small. but i am willing to offer some performance for a bit better fuel economy as long as it doesn't start to run hot because of the lean setting. but i tuned it in cold weather -4 celsius and now its already 12 degree's celsius when i got the new battery in then i will connect it straight to the battery i didn't do it now because of the high battery voltage. I tuned it so that when its wide oped it stays near the center so the second led from the center so this is already pretty much the ideal combustion ratio. i will check my spark plug regulary to see how its doing. from a few short rides it already has gone from a pale white insulator to an dark brownish color |
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Post by diynuke on Mar 5, 2018 17:29:50 GMT -5
Okay i installed the new battery and the new regulator and this time it only charge's to about 13.5v at 7k rpm. so that's perfect compared to the 17v.
the scoot start's way better even with the kickstart (dc cdi of course so it does explain why it would start so poorly sometimes when it gave some puff's.
I also test fitted the heated grips and they seem to fit fine altho the throttle is quite tight so i sanded it a bit down because it took a bit too much force to put it on.
i will place the controller under the keyswitch. So under the rest of the electronics and i will switch it with a relay. i don't want people to be able to put it on when the switch is off. already have a relay for accessories so i will wire it up to that relay..
Ah and a handy tip!
When you need to get your grips off just use your air compressor and spray some air between the grip and the handle bar it will slip right off!
allot of people already know this but for the people who don't give it a try!
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Post by diynuke on Mar 6, 2018 17:23:07 GMT -5
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Post by diynuke on Apr 13, 2018 2:40:05 GMT -5
Okay scoot keep's running but however it's using oil
and my guess is that the crankcase breather isnt functioning as it should.
when i refill the oil it kind of wont go down so that would indicate that it isnt breathing as it should.
(did check it a few times blowing on the hose but its really hard to blow through it.)
I dont suspect the piston rings since it doesnt smell like there is oil being burnt
So it could be time for me to just replace the piston rings and clean the head again
And break it in easy this time.. 500km take's a pretty long time tho xD
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