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Post by 90GTVert on May 30, 2017 15:53:53 GMT -5
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Post by Jwhood on Jun 29, 2017 23:41:15 GMT -5
Another question will I need a spacer since crank is 44mm I think rod is 90mm and the 54 mm cylinder,I talked to Gary at gforce to see it they carried them in case I need one he said they do,all this is new territory for me
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Post by 190mech on Jun 30, 2017 3:58:19 GMT -5
The only way to know is do a test build and see where the ports and piston line up at BDC and TDC,then do a degree wheel check and adjust from there..
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Post by jbjhillbilly on Dec 3, 2017 17:54:54 GMT -5
You'll want to JB that chipped sealing surface for sure!I like to JB the part,then put a piece of greased glass window pane over it with some weight(brick),comes out nice and smooth once dry...Here is a twisted one off build that I used this idea on;  John you never cease to amaze me with your ingenuity!!👍👍👍👍 You can use shoe polish as a releasing agent for JB Weld/Marine Tex and the like. This is especially handy if you are trying to make one piece shaped like another, but don't want to two parts welded together (it's how you bed a rifle's action to the stock). |
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 7, 2018 1:30:41 GMT -5
Might get the yms if I have too I had a yms v8 sectional pipe on my 54mm Taida bore, but after a while the internal baffles cracked/broke and the pipe was really loud. So I changed it out to the black yms v8 with plastic heat shield, to my surprise it ran quite well. A lot better than I expected. Not as powerful as the 100cc yms v8 sectional pipe, but it ran well. |
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Post by Jwhood on Feb 21, 2018 16:12:10 GMT -5
Well I got the engine together,I went with the short case and a 44mm crank I got spacer material cause can't remember the thickness but athe guy I bought the crank from on eBay says they used a this crank on a 54mm standard bore with the spacer material I needed,just got to cut the it out,I think I'll just clean up the ports with a file instead of uping the port roofs it's gonna be my daily driver,plus it's gonna go on my Tgb   |
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Post by Jwhood on Feb 22, 2018 10:57:09 GMT -5
The spacer material is 1.5mm so with the gaskets I got with the kit should make everything workout right,never used the degree wheel so I'm gonna put it on it just to see my port timing just for learning experience,I know Brent's got extensive info on these builds so I'll look at that info for somethings,I'm guessing the conrod is 85mm I haven't measured yet,also the wiseco wristpin Brent recommended fits perfect,not sure what the final drive ratio is yet cause I've been putting off building this for a while.If this build goes good I might venture into the high reving,high quality stuff next just didn't wanna jump into that till I get a little more build and tuning time under my belt,does anyone know what the case and cylinder bolt torque spec's are on these I know I seen it somewhere in Brent's post but not sure where and when I seen it?
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Post by 90GTVert on Feb 22, 2018 11:22:16 GMT -5
Cylinder nuts are 10-15ft-lbs. I've stayed toward the middle and lower end of that after having so many issues with threads in the cases on my Chinese engines. Crankcase bolts should be about 7-8ft-lbs. Both cylinder and case bolts should be tightened in a criss-cross pattern.
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Post by Jwhood on Mar 6, 2018 14:39:46 GMT -5
Had off today so I messed with cutting spacer out for cylinder head and now try to figure out the exhaust duration and port timings,I've got the cylinder locked down,not exactly sure how to read the printable degree wheel I've read the tech section still un sure how to read it,the spacer is 1.5 mm,good little work out cutting that spacer out,looks way better now I filed it all down,I was worried about the squish but once I tighten the cylinder down so I could check the timing it looks damn near close to the requirements specs still gonna check though,also might have to trim piston skirt slightly it has contact at bdc gonna take a few mm off,I'm confused with the light color numbers and the dark color numbers on the degree wheel what ones should I be looking a thanks for any help  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 6, 2018 14:52:55 GMT -5
The black numbers on the outside represent the port open duration in degrees, and the gray numbers are degrees relative to top dead center. Lining the piston up with the top of a port just as it's opening or completely closing will allow you to read the duration of the port rather than having to do the math as you do with a standard degree wheel. Black numbers will tell you duration as long as you've got the degree wheel 0'ed in on TDC. Some people like this wheel, some don't. Lots of standard degree wheels are out there in printable versions. garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/printable-degree-wheel.974/ |
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Post by Jwhood on Mar 6, 2018 14:57:14 GMT -5
Brent gonna show you what I get,so I get to the top of the exhaust port soon as it gets ready too open set tdc on the degree wheel and go clockwise till it gets back to the top of the exhaust port that should give me my number right??
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Post by Jwhood on Mar 6, 2018 15:00:14 GMT -5
This is zeroed out through the cycle back to the top of exhaust port  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 6, 2018 15:08:38 GMT -5
I always do it the opposite way. To me, the proper way to use the wheel is to zero the wheel on TDC. If you use the printable wheel of mine and zero it that way, the black numbers should show you duration on the down and upstroke. If you're going to use what many call the easy method of zeroing on port opening, don't use the black numbers. It would probably be easier to use a more standard wheel that has 0-360 around the circumference. You could use mine and use the gray numbers, but if it's over 180 degrees you'll have to do some addition, because my wheel would start reading backwards. So 170 would be 190, 160 would be 200, and so on.
EDIT : Yours would be something like 177-178 unless my brain isn't working well ATM and you've passed the BDC mark already and then it's reading 182-183.
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Post by Jwhood on Mar 6, 2018 15:09:04 GMT -5
This is zeroed out through the cycle back to the top of exhaust port On the exhaust I'm get 180,intake I'm getting 120 and boost ports I'm getting 108?? |
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 6, 2018 15:13:17 GMT -5
If in doubt, try it the way I said and 0 on TDC. That also allows precision measurements of anything related to TDC like deck height if you need to do them.
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