Exhaust build for Peugeot ludix lc Stage6 Sport Pro 70cc MK2

[robwelding]

The pipe desing so far...





 looks like an rpg  

[robwelding]

Some updates

the new pipe desing -->



The 3d rendering of the exhaust -->



The header printed out 1/1 scale -->



The header cut and flipped to testfit -->





so far so good...

[190mech]

Very good!Now its time to start cutting some metal!!

[robwelding]

An update, planning for next steps

as you saw in my post ive cut and flipped the header section of the exhaust. I added 0.8 mm to each side so i would have the outer diameter of the pipe to fit. glued it on cardboard, and its clearing the stand and engine case now.
I then printed out the cone to the inner diameter nr from fospipe, drew al the lines at same angles and distances again, and measured all the dimensions. Ive downloaded the cone program and thanks to 190mechs posts I know now how to work with the cone program.
Tomorrow ill input al the numbers for the header, and ill try to do the next piece aswel.

What im not certain about
, about the flange, I desinged my flange to be the outer tube, and my exhaust will then fit into that 20 mm of flange pipe of the flange, I was thinking viton rubber and liquid gasket sealant to make sure it doest leak, and using 2 strong springs to hold/push the pipe into the flange.

Now, the header is at an angle, so I dont know for sure how far it wil go into the flange, you kinda feel where im going here, I could use some tips and tricks concerning the connection between flange and exhaust.

Ive seen many exhaust doing the opposite, ea the pipe fits over the flange, with a rubber in between.

Do you think my way will work out fine or should I redesing a straight section on the header, and make that fit over the flange?
Also my flange is 5 mm thick, should I cut 5 mm of the header? Im getting really close now to ordering the lazerd parts, but I'm a bit wary and a perfectionist... also, dont want to end up with a bunch of parts that wont be good.

so, my plan atm, more or less -->

The start of the header is 30.6mm, the hole in the flange will be 32mm or a bit more, the 20mm length tube that fits and gets welded into the flange hole should be 31mm inner diameter +- depends on what I can get... (I can hammer it into shape a bit if needed)

So of the 20mm length 32 outer diameter and 31 inner diameter pipe, 5mm slides into the flange plate, and 15mm is sticking out.
Then the header will fit snugly into the flange tube since its taperd, ill ad a rubber viton seal 30mmx1mm in between both and smear liquid gastet on the header, like toothpaste, attach the springs to hold/puch the header into the flange, ill make those pull real hard.

This way I can twist the header into the right direction, to the side.
The header ends with a straight edge.

The first stage diffuser starts with same diameter straight edge, ill make that one out of 3 sections again with 2x 5° cuts in the middlde and straigt at start and end,
and that i hope), should be enough play to flip and turn the rest of the exhaust into a position where I can desing the suspension points.

The2nd stage diffusor can then be made in just one piece.

Next the belly wil be straight at start and end, but ill do one cut 5° or 7.5° in the middle of the belly so I can flip that and have that cool look the roost exhausts have).


Then the end cone wil be straight, but cut in 2 sections, from 102mm to 28mm so I can use my rolling machine,
and the second end part of the end cone from 28mm to 11mm can be hand/hammer bent on a 11mm solid rod (11 mm is too smal for the slip rol).

Finally, ill have to order a slip-on or clamp-on Roost (70€) or Stage 6 (100€) or yasuni silencer (100€), and I'll have to order/fabricate the stinger somewhere/somehow.

For the stinger, best idea I have now is to order 2 mandrel 90° bends, and a tube of same diameter/thickness as the 90° bends, so I can customize the stinger to position the silencer, so that the silencer can be clamped on to a nut , welded to the exhaust.
Ill weld a M10 nut onto the exhaust for the bolt of the silencer clamp.

Final step, ill take a piece of 1mmm plate, grind and bend and drill it to make the suspension bracket between the exhaust and the engine case, this shoudnt be to hard.

Think I got it pretty well figured out now, but I'd love your input on all this. Its become quite the project I must say and much respect to you for doing what you do 190mech.

And now time for some shut eye


PS the exhaust is pretty much the same as a Yasuni C16, only I worked out the numbers better according to physicsthis formulas i got from some 2stroke tuners book. It should perform a tad better. Id liketo build the exausts under the name
"Son Of Michael" and I'll name this type "SOM R16", good name or find something better?

N8N8 all

[robwelding]

Using Cone Layout

These are al the measurements of the header ->


Entering the data in the Cone Layout program ->


Al the files from the header in DFX format, flat patterns for lasercutting, and 3d drawings for solidworks/autocad


When I've done al the parts of the complete exhaust I'll upload them in a zip file to give something back to the forum

grtz Rob

[robwelding]

Finally, the desing phase is coming to its end,parts will be orderd this week!

[190mech]

So glad to see another pipe builder here!Good Luck,keep us posted!!

[ryan_ott]

Sounds like your plan will be made to metal real soon. Silencers can be made by hand also. They are a tad time consuming building but in the end you get what works for you instead of working around what you can find. Expanded sheet metal for the core, expansion plug caps, and aluminum tube for the shell. I also have some of the eBay specials I can get you dimensions of if wanted.

www.ebay.com/itm/201552875090

[robwelding]

Thanks Ryan for the help, eventually ill make the silencers too i think. I just want to have a brand one to copy, and it will add to the value for now, but ill look into it.
I just want to get the exhaust on my scoot asap hahah.
Ive redesinged the flange connection, did some more cut and flip tweaking, and after I check the lazer drawings one more time ill send the order, ill order 2 because im expecting some fuckups as is normal when you do things for the first time.

I mean im pretty confident but Im also not too cocky to assume it'l al be downhill and eazy from now to finish.

Ive prototyped the flange, got to use my DIY printer and here is the part in PLA bioplastic, it fits nicely on the cilinder, so I can be worry free about that part already.
I could print out the whole pipe piece by piece, but Im gonnna risk it without doing that, it would take too much time and a plastic pipe is not very usefull anyways hehe. Some pictures as usual










looking forward to next steps

[robwelding]

Some news, I was gonna go ahead and order the parts and start the build, but after some bad luck with some other stuff last week, I decided to first print out the header bend before I spend money on the lazerd parts, Im not confident enough its all going to be correct and wont hit the engine or stand, I have done try fits with cardboard but thats just 2 dimensional. Since I got the 3d printer anyways, it wont hurt to make the header and diffusor in plastic and know 100% sure my drawings are perfect. The little cones wont use much material to print and it shouldnt take too long either. I only have one thing stopping me and thats the annoying fact I cant turn the 3d DFX files from the cone layout into solid parts with solidworks. When I import the 3d files, they are made from 100's of lines, and I need to somehow make them into solid parts with wall thickness of 0.8mm. I looked on the interwebs and youtubes etc, but cant find explenation how to do that. Once I get this fixed its just a matter of saving the parts to .STL format and load it into the printer program.
So I asked a friend with some more computer drawing skills to figure out how to do it,and explain me. He will help me out as soon as he has some time for it.
Maybe someone on here knows how to do this, please feel free to help.
Here is a picture of the situation -->



I did order 3 silencers for the first few exhausts, after some thinking I took Ryans advice and got the ones from ebay he suggested.
So those are on their way here at least.

[190mech]

Why not print the flat patterns on paper,cut them out,roll them up,tape them together and get a 3D headpipe??

[190mech]

Like this??

[robwelding]

hehe 190mech thats cool dinosaur youve made there. But...

I did it, its 3h16 at night atm, but ive found how to do it the right way using only solidworks.
Didnt use the cone layout 3d export file.
I took the 3d solidworks Header pipe file, and cut it up like I did on paper.
Now I can not only print the parts, but cut and flip in solidworks too. Im so happy I figured this out without help

What you have to do is make a new plane every 20mm, then angle al the planes to 5° and -5°,
then split the whole header with al the cuts in one time, and you get all the parts in one time,
the program renames every single part and saves them al as separate parts.
You can then open each cone section seperatly, or add them all to an assembly file,
and do the flipping and turning and allinging in the assembly drawing.
Here is the first cone of the header, 0° on one side, 20mm long in centre, and 5°on the other side.
Will start and finish printing tomorrow, now I can sleep in peace




Goodnight to all

[robwelding]

Spent the whole day with solidworks and the 3d printer today, Im knackerd
Got the whole header section cut and every segment in a single 3d file and .STL and .G-code.
Printed all the parts, had to print some 2 times due to my printer being cheap and some wire jams.
Anyways, got the job done, used about 3-4 meters of PLA wire, wich is very little, so it was defenitly worth doing it like that. Here are al the segments of the header bend.



Tomorrows plan is to go by the local scootshop for some packings and some little parts, so I can finish the spare engine Im using as fitment tool.
The rear wheal can be fitted once the gears are installed and the stand can be installed too.
Then a trip to the hardwarestore to get hot glue sticks. A quick famely visit, and hopefuly after that I'l have enough time left to hotglue al the segments together, and see where im at.

Possibly print out the first diffusor too, thats only 4 parts and since I got enough practice today those segments will be drawn up and printed in an hour or 2.

After the 1st diffusor there aren't any angle cuts in the rest of the exhaust, just one in the belly part.

Printing those parts would take much too long and my printer fails to often doing big parts, and its not neccecary so those dont need to be printed.
Maybe one more piece of tube, the one that slides over the flange tube.

God Im hoping the headerbend is gonna be good and wil turn out like it should.
I enjoy al the work, but Im just a welder.
Who ever tells you making an exhaust is an eazy thing to do doesnt knwow what there talking about let me tell you that

The end result will be so worth it tho, just the knowledge and skills Ive learned along the way far outweigh some course you'd follow at evening school. Ive done a few years eveningschool chemistry graduate, and this for sure is on parr with that imo.

Im going to get some much needed sleep now goodnight to all

[robwelding]

So as you might have guessed,
I totally got it wrong, hahaha.
Once the header was glued together, I realized I made the cuts way to soft angled,
resulting in a header that was almost hitting the ground.
I did get it around the stand, but other then that it was just a failed attempt.
Good thing I didnt order the lazer parts jet, that would have hurt...

But it did showed me what I actually need to do, I had one long header tube, making a 95° total bend.
I acutally need 2 bends of 90°. Ive practiced a lot more with solidworks,
printed out many parts, and now I can draw the whole thing in 3d,
with al the angles and cuts exactly how they need to be.
Ive got the first part of the header done now, the exhaust port is pointing downward, so I got the flange, the connection tubes, and the first bend 90° to the right side done.
Tomorrow Ill finish the complete header, the 1st diffusor is already printed out correctly so are the second diffusor and the belly too. When I got the header done ill print out the baffle cone aswel.
Picture time !!



Totally missed the bal here you can see my fail, and the diffuser parts and half the belly part.


The new desing of the 1st header part. That yellowy tube is the outside tube of the flange connection, there is another tube inside, with the right diameter.
So can rotate the bend, in case you thought its fixed... 


Getting the hang of solidworks

Heating up the glue gun atm, ill post the printed part in 30 minutes.

30min later -->
Thats a much shorter distance downwards, and plenty of header lenght left to make the next bend, horizontally from side to back, around the stand. After that the hard part should be done. 



goodnight all