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Post by 190mech on Apr 30, 2017 16:18:07 GMT -5
After reading a few motorcycle forum threads on windshields,it seems each rider has their own perspective of what a windshield needs to do..I agree with Reg,cutting it shorter will likely be the final cure..What about the stock windscreen?Think it may be hacked up for testing before the shiney new one??
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 30, 2017 17:10:52 GMT -5
I dunno if the stock one is an accurate representation of what happens when I cut the aftermarket one. They're both at different angles with different designs and the new one looks tougher to cut because of it's wavy shape. At this point, if I screw up the new one I won't be thrilled... but I'm thinking about just going to no shield anyway so as long as it doesn't crack anything else (like mounts or panels on the scoot), whatever. The 150 is proving that I'm not capable of selling anything anywhere near a reasonable price so it's nearly worthless if I don't end up using it. My only other thought was bending just the top inch or so, but I think the shape may again make that tough and I don't know that it would accomplish much.
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Post by stepthrutuner on Apr 30, 2017 17:26:38 GMT -5
I thought the windscreen delete looked great.
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 30, 2017 19:22:28 GMT -5
I thought the windscreen delete looked great. So did I, and I may end up back there. I think now I'm just pissed that I spent $100 on something that seems to do nothing. Now I know what it feels like to buy a 20mm carb and a CDI for a TaoTao from folks that give them fancy names. The edges of the double bubble windshield are fairly sharp, and I know that any porting or engine airflow stuff I read often notes the importance of edge shaping and transitions. I didn't really expect anything, but figured I don't know if I don't try adding the piping that Powerbronze supplied around the edges of the screen.   I took a quick ride and it didn't change anything as far as I could tell. Alright, screw it. I taped the windshield with painters tape. Then I went around the top with a measuring tape hung from the top edge and made a series of marks at 2" all around. Then I connected the dots to make a line. I still had to draw the corners, but I tried to keep them symmetrical. From what I've seen, most prefer to trace the top onto poster board and transfer it down X amount to draw their line. I didn't feel like taking an hour to make a trip to Wal-Mart or a craft store. I'm not sure why I haven't seen this one done, because it wasn't that tough. I guess you would have a hard time being 100% on with the corners, but my jigsaw skills are suspect and much more likely a cause for inaccuracy.   I taped the back too, just to be sure I didn't scratch that either. Also applied extra layers below the line in hopes of preventing the guide from scratching it. I stuffed an old blanket behind the windscreen and over as much of the scoot as it would cover to keep plastic-y bits off.  I know there are blades for plexiglass and lexan, but I figured the metal blades I had around should work.  I made a small cut above the line just to be sure it worked OK. Then I started cutting.  The first few inches took me about 15 minutes because I'm terrible with a jigsaw. I only bought this one 20 years ago to cut holes for speakers and I really don't use it. Luckily I was cutting at a very slow speed or I probably would have lost a fingertip. I was so into watching the line that I got my finger twice. Not the blade, but smashing it with the piece ahead of it. Brilliant. The rest took me about 15 minutes more and then it snapped as I tried to make the curve at the end. Luckily it snapped above my line so I just need to cut it off. I'll get that tomorrow with a cutoff wheel probably.   So this is how it sits.  No clue if it's what I need or the last thing I needed yet. |
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Post by stepthrutuner on Apr 30, 2017 21:07:51 GMT -5
A little light oil usually helps you cut a little bit faster. A wood blade usually works best for me. As you did, taking your time is best. Making the cut edge smooth is really going to be fun. I'm sure you'll find some good helpful videos better than my advice. The amount you cut off should pretty much translate into the same amount of vertical drop as to where the windblast will now hit you.
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Post by lordhater on May 1, 2017 8:40:03 GMT -5
Once you get the final "trim" where you want it takes a single cut bastard file and draw file it smooth to the shape you want,,,then practice on a off cut piece use a propane torch to flame polish the edge,,,I've done this several times,,,it works great
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Post by 90GTVert on May 2, 2017 9:56:59 GMT -5
I cut the rest of the shield off where it snapped with a handsaw last night. The saws didn't leave too bad of a surface. The main issue was my stopping and starting or readjusting the line in a few spots that caused some little plateaus.    I used a single cut file to shape the corners more and get rid of the large imperfections. That smoothed it out pretty well.   I tried flame polishing the edge on the scrap piece, but by the time it looked near glossy I could see a little distortion along the edge. I decided to do something I'm more accustomed to and just sand it. I smeared a little Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish across the top before each time and sanded quickly with 220, 400, 600, and 1000 grits before another coat of polish and a paper towel to finish. It came out looking good, aside from where I should have spent more time with the rougher grits to remove scratches and dings from getting a little wild with the file at times.    I couldn't really see it last night, but when I went out today the nicks from crazed filing were more obvious. I should probably re-tape, file, and sand again. I doubt that I'll bother right away though.  I took a quick ride and it's better. Not sure how much, because it's quite windy today. I don't think it's going to be quiet, but definitely quieter. |
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Post by 190mech on May 2, 2017 12:04:20 GMT -5
A jig saw is the last tool we will use on aircraft plexi windows!The back and forth motion can grab the plastic and crack it..a bandsaw is the first choice,followed by cut off wheels/sanding discs for second choice.. Here is a link ; www.lpaero.com/DRILTRIM.pdf |
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Post by stepthrutuner on May 2, 2017 20:55:34 GMT -5
Great job with great looking results. Congrats.  There are all kinds of ways to do the job according to my searches. Prep and not getting in a hurry probably most important but that pretty much applies to doing anything.  |
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Post by 2stroked on May 3, 2017 16:24:29 GMT -5
I'm a bit late to the party, but here I am.
Welcome to the world of big (well waht I call Mid-scoots**) scooters. Nice bike.
The windscreen on hear biger bikes are a PITA til ou either get used to it or change something.
** They are not mini scooters but aren't not quite as boat like as the silverwngs and Burgys. I rode a TMax once, I wound up white knuckling in a tight twisty, and decided I really didn't need the extra 250cc's. I'm too stupid for that anymore. These mid sized scoots can sometimes surprise ya. Congrats on the new bike.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 6, 2017 6:36:15 GMT -5
I've been looking around and finally decided that I want the older style of Yamaha racks for the TMAX. The one that uses the GIVI Monolock mount setup. Figured I'd get the 46L case from Yamaha too, since it has the part needed to ready the rack for Monolock style cases. I actually did find a GIVI clamp separately though. It says it's for Monokey, but I emailed them asking if there were a Monolock clamp and the rep told me that one can be used. www.giviusa.com/givi-products/spare-parts/hardware-components/z124-attachment-clamp-detailMore info on this stuff is on pg3 of this thread. When I looked around more, I found that I don't seem to have any local GIVI dealers to hope to get a case cheaper without paying shipping, so I might as well just get the Yamaha case. So I know what I want, and I was going to start by picking up the rack last night. Of course now that I'm ready, the rack went up from ~$150 at a couple of cheaper spots that I found to $600 everywhere. So much for that plan. |
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Post by Senna1Rossi on May 10, 2017 12:27:20 GMT -5
Thought of aftermarket stainless steel brake lines for the front? And EBC sintered pads while you're at it?
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Post by 90GTVert on May 10, 2017 18:37:39 GMT -5
Thought of aftermarket stainless steel brake lines for the front? And EBC sintered pads while you're at it? I've thought of about every aftermarket part there is for it, but for now I'm focusing on stuff like storage and riding gear. Got a pair of riding pants today... and I absolutely hate them. They're so bulky and don't fit me great. I think they're really safe, because I'd never make it more than 2 minutes from the house before I went back home to take them off. Back to the brakes, they feel amazing to me so unless I need to replace the parts I will probably leave 'em. I mean, I'm used to Chinese brakes that are horrible for the last 10+ years. If I need new pads, I plan to get sintered. If I need new hoses, I think the SS stuff is cheaper than going with Yamaha replacements so they'd be what I went with. |
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Post by Senna1Rossi on May 10, 2017 19:03:48 GMT -5
Brent, have you look at riding jeans? Many have Kevlar built in at strategic places for safety. Here's one from Cycle Gear: www.cyclegear.com/gear/bilt-iron-workers-steel-jeansThere's a store in Laurel, MD, so you could cruise over there and try on different ones... |
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Post by stepthrutuner on May 10, 2017 19:08:47 GMT -5
I like your decision on the topbox. My Burg's is only 1l larger. Mount prices are reaming to say the least... bastards!
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There are all kinds of ways to do the job according to my searches. Prep and not getting in a hurry probably most important but that pretty much applies to doing anything. 
