|
|
Post by Senna1Rossi on Apr 24, 2017 11:04:59 GMT -5
Don't paint when it's gusting ootside! heh. So friggin windy here lately. sheesh
If you're gonna go rattle-can method, I'd recommend Rus-oleum brand. Sprays much nicer than any others brands I tried buying from local stores
|
|
|
|
Post by map on Apr 24, 2017 18:05:30 GMT -5
Can someone post a picture of a scooter engine and circle the pieces I'm not meant to paint?
|
|
|
|
Post by paydem on Dec 11, 2017 15:36:57 GMT -5
SOOO much advice to give.. so first of all.. Do NOT sand your plastics, you only need to scuff it up. Just a light scuff, you don't need to dig in. Take the scuff pad and just do some sweeps over the part to be painted. The purpose of scuffing it up, is so that the paint has something to adhere to. To explain this a little better, think of a sheet of glass. Imagine what would happen, if you sprayed a coat of paint on it, and then let it dry... You'd be able to easily take a scraper, or even your fingernail, and scrape that paint off. Now think of that same sheet of glass, scuffed up. You now have little bitty grooves that the paint will sink into, locking it in place. My suggestion for scuff pads would be to pick up some of these: www.amazon.com/dp/B002NEWYNWThe reason you don't want to sand the plastics, is you risk removing contours, you can get streaks and runs if you do it by hand and not a rotary sander, and you risk hitting the substrate, which you do NOT want to do. I would only sand as a last resort to correct pitting or other type of imperfections. You'd want to sand using a 320 grit at most, then follow up with a 600 grit. Once you have the scuffing/sanding down, it's time to move on to prep for the part. This is a vital, and very often overlooked step for the home painters. First of all, you'll want to paint somewhere that will keep contamination away as much as possible. If you have a garage, you're almost set. Best way to approach it, is make yourself a makeshift paint booth in your garage. You don't need that big of an area. To make one, buy some rolls of plastic that are long enough to go from floor to ceiling. Make yourself a little makeshift paint booth in a corner, by running plastic down from the ceiling all around the work area, and tape them together with duct tape so that you have an enclosed room. Put the door/opening to get inside somewhere towards the end and place a small fan on the floor by the door that blows outwards to let paint fumes out. Turn on the fan, and let it run for about 5 minutes before doing the actual painting, plenty of time to prep the part. To prep the part for painting, get a lint free cloth and soak it in a mixture of 50%rubbing alcohol 50% water. Wring it out, and use it to wipe down your parts before painting. What you're looking to do here, is get rid of all the fine dust particle that may be present. After you have done that, you'll want to use a dry tack cloth (preferably one with beeswax), and go over the part again. THEN you are ready to paint. When painting, always start your stream BEFORE the part, and use a steady motion all the way across. For a proper paint job, you'll want each coat to rest for 3 days. Sure it might be dry after a couple hours, but if you want a pro look, you need patience and cure time. After resting for 3 days, again, give it a wash down with the alcohol mix and a good tack job before moving on to the next coat. Soooo much more I could go over here, but right now I'm asking myself "what the hell am I still doing up at this hour when I have work in the morning". Good luck. Old thread but I can not let this go through my eyes like that. I grew up around cars and motorcycles, my father worked in painting shop for a long time and I learn almost everything from him. Bad preparation work if you have any respect for your scooter. Strip down the most of the old paint. Work up to 600 grit, clean it with paint thinner, apply one or two coats of primer (depens on what you're using), scrub the primer with 600 then 800, then start applying base coat. First coat must be light so you don't get any runs, wait 15-30 minutes depending on the temperature you're working in and do another coat. Wait for the base coat to dry for 24 hours. Apply clear cloat, wait 15-30 minutes, again, it depends on what temperature you're in. Apply two or even three coats of clear so you have some room for later. Wait 24 hours and you're done. Not sure why you're saying that you need to wait three days between coats, it's a waste of time and the paint bonds better when waiting 15-30 minutes between coats. After applying clear coat, scrub it with 1000 grit so remove any imperfections, if you're not happing with your job you can reapply clear coat, just be sure not to scrub into base coat as you will need to redo all of this again. You can polish the paint to make it look even better. The finished look will look something like this (picture below) if you do your preparation work good, use quality paint ant clear coat. Prep work like yours could work out if you're planning to put it on craigslist, but I would not waste my time in doing it. No primer and clear coat - nonono  |
|
|
|
Post by tortoise2 on Dec 11, 2017 15:59:27 GMT -5
Hydro dipping may be an option for some . . videos. |
|
|
|
Post by eclark5483 on Dec 11, 2017 16:13:03 GMT -5
Old thread but I can not let this go through my eyes like that. I grew up around cars and motorcycles, my father worked in painting shop for a long time and I learn almost everything from him. I learned from DuPont and PPG engineers, but what do they know? Now why would someone risk going to the substrate on plastic? It isn't metal. You DO know what happens when you reach substrate, right? Sure, if you like wasting paint and over coating. Cure time for the polymer (plastic) in the paint. But again, what would DuPont and PPG know, your advice is way more solid, you learned from dad. No need to fully cure a polymer, right? Tell us all what happens when you don't fully cure a polymer. Paint last forever doesn't it?? So much work, so like after all that paining and prep, you gotta do it again? I heard from Mike Holmes on TV, it's better to do it right the first time. Yes, Craigslist, or perhaps onto Indian Show room floors. Thanks for sounding off. I'd much rather do it the way that wouldn't get me fired, and get results like this..  |
|
|
|
Post by paydem on Dec 11, 2017 17:17:14 GMT -5
"Now why would someone risk going to the substrate on plastic? It isn't metal."
"I learned from DuPont and PPG engineers, but what do they know?"If you're being careful then no, you're not going to manipulate it in any wrong way... I'm not trying to start beef with some pro guy, who learned from profesionnals, I'm saying what has worked out BEST for me. Maybe it's a rocket science when you stack layers of paint on one another? "Sure, if you like wasting paint and over coating."What's so wrong about three layers of clear, especially when you have runs to sand off, etc.? "Cure time for the polymer in the paint."Are we doing show level paint jobs over here? I want to paint my scooter and what, I'm going to wait week or more to get it done? "So much work, so like after all that paining and prep, you gotta do it again?"So I'm saying if you're doing clear coat for the first time, you will probably get runs, you can sand it off, so what so wrong about having thick layer of clear? "Yes, Craigslist, or perhaps onto Indian Show room floors. Thanks for sounding off."
Only dumb fucks remove paint if they want it that way, huh? And yeah, I'm the one who's sounding off here... gyazo.com/26fd574a126da765eddc6ae6c214cc13
|
|
|
|
Post by lostforawhile on Dec 11, 2017 17:19:05 GMT -5
these are so simple, get the krylon fusion brand paints, you don't have to scuff or sand or anything, just wash the parts in some soap and water, dish soap will strip wax, the stuff sticks like glue, and is made for things like outdoor furniture, so it holds up really well. I've used it for all kinds of stuff. There are a lot of really good spray paints now that adhere to plastic, in the old days, you would have had to apply plastic primer and go through all that mess, with these new paints, you only need the paint , the fusion seems to be the best plastic paint though, just take the plastic stuff off to paint first though. I have chairs painted with the stuff that have been out in the sun and weather for years and have held up really well
|
|
|
|
Post by eclark5483 on Dec 11, 2017 17:25:22 GMT -5
If you're being careful then no, you're not going to manipulate it in any wrong way... I'm not trying to start beef with some pro guy, who learned from profesionnals, I'm saying what has worked out BEST for me. Maybe it's a rocket science when you stack layers of paint on one another? More layers mean there is a better chance of warping in the coat. You shouldn't have runs in the first place. Show level is the goal, yes. Again, if done properly the first time, this won't be an issue. No, only dumb people remove paint if they are inexperienced. I do it on a mass scale, literally thousands of parts a year. We ain't got time for runs and recoats. A paint run means that part is going back to the sandbox to fix the problem, the painters have more to contend with besides robotic errors. |
|
|
|
Post by lostforawhile on Dec 11, 2017 17:37:32 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by lostforawhile on Dec 11, 2017 17:45:35 GMT -5
I forgot to tell you, be very careful removing the pieces, if this is a generic chinese scooter, the plastics they use are like glass, they can snap with very little pressure, especially the tabs. Mine has just over 2000 miles, and I've had to do numerous plastic repairs, just from riding it, some pieces have cracked or broken. Keep this in mind when doing any work on it
|
|
|
|
Post by benji on Dec 12, 2017 0:13:10 GMT -5
I buy plastics in the color I want them. Way easier.
|
|
|
|
Post by benji on Dec 12, 2017 0:16:32 GMT -5
Krylon sprays real well I've noticed.
|
|
|
|
Post by lostforawhile on Dec 12, 2017 1:04:56 GMT -5
Krylon sprays real well I've noticed. I've painted all kinds of plastic stuff, and went through the hassle of plastic primer, which may or may not work, might stay tacky, might react with the top coat etc, and i love the fusion paints, even if they don't have the color you want, it can serve as a primer base, and most paints,including most krylon products, top coat on it, with no issues. Test your base and top coat on something else first |
|
|
|
Post by eclark5483 on Dec 13, 2017 0:29:54 GMT -5
There are a lot of really good spray paints now that adhere to plastic, in the old days, you would have had to apply plastic primer and go through all that mess, with these new paints, you only need the paint Really, THIS is what it boils down to. Today's paints ain't nothing like dad's old paint. The technology has really evolved. It isn't anything that is noticeable or even known by many pro automotive body shops. That's why if you have a car or bike painted professionally, you wanna make sure the ones doing the job are accredited and have trained for the new paints. What newer paints offer, is a different type of cohesion bond and polymer that turns into a shell and gets down deeper into the pours.. Yes, even if you have a baby butt smooth surface, it still has pours, even glass has pours, though very very small. What we look to do, is "lock" the paint to the part so firmly, that if you attempt to sand off the coat, you hit substrate. Krylon, when applied correctly, can get pretty close to what automotive grade can. Applying a secondary coat soon after... like an hour or more, might give the new coat a firmer surface to work with, but what we need to do, is first give the polymer time to harden. Think of that old "magic shell" ice cream topping shit. You can't just plop some on, wait 5 seconds and plop on some more. You need to give it time to set and harden. Same thing with paint, except you're talking days (72 hours), not minutes. You get that base coat to harden and lock down. It strengthens the polymer more and more for any additional coat you feel you need, though, if you're good, you can get by with 1 coat. Another thing this helps with... is contouring. For every layer of paint you put on, you lose just a bit of detail in your project's lines. While this might not seem too important to a casual user, it's a noticeable change from spec when you work in a motorcycle factory and have a bitchy auditor who can spot that shit 20 feet away. I say if one wants to learn how to be a painter, go buy one of those $12.99 model car kits from Wal-Mart, get a wire hanger and a can of paint, some clear coat, some scotchbrite, and create a show quality looking model car that still shows all the minute details that were made from the mold. Sounds pretty simple to do, but once you have an eye for detail, you find out what a daunting task it is. You'll also find, the same rule still applies... let it dry for 3 days, then apply another coat. Do it right, your Walmart model will have a paint job that is smooth as glass. |
|
|
|
Post by tsimi on Dec 13, 2017 2:37:19 GMT -5
I think at the end it all depends on the results you want to have. Some like to have that glass like gloss finish like the show cars/bikes have. Others just want to change quickly the color of some certain parts. As benji said best is to look for plastics/fairings in the color you want, that will safe you a lot of time. If you are the lazy type and want a quick and easy change use "mat" colors like black mat which is most used for stolen scoots I heard. No polishing, no clear coat. If those 2 options are not what you want then it all comes down to prep work, precise working and time. Never rush anything, read the instructions on the rattle can since every maker has different rules. It takes longer to paint during cold winter times so if possible postpone to Spring or Summer season. I personally did a complete paint job on my scoot and if I had a time machine I would go back and have just bought fairings in a different color or let a pro paint everything. It was a big PITA to get everything done right. A pro has the right tools, experience and working space and if he messes up he is the one that fixes it.  |
|
