|
|
Post by dexameth on Aug 15, 2018 6:10:06 GMT -5
Can we get a run-down of your current setup? More like a parts list, I'd like to get an idea.
Somewhat like 50mm bore, head and cam, carb and jet sizes / intake / filter, variator setup, clutch setup and any extras.
|
|
|
|
Post by AtariGuy on Aug 15, 2018 12:11:35 GMT -5
Can we get a run-down of your current setup? More like a parts list, I'd like to get an idea. Somewhat like 50mm bore, head and cam, carb and jet sizes / intake / filter, variator setup, clutch setup and any extras. shortcase engine, 50mm bore, 50mm non emissions head with 19mm intake, 16mm exhaust 69mm length valves, dished piston, glix a9 cam, stock (metal core rubber coated) intake with vacuum caps, stock cvk carb with 96 main jet, fresh fuel filter and manual shutoff valve on helix fuel lines, stock airbox with snorkel removed, stock cdi and coil, regapped pickup at stock advance (never tried brents ignition advance mod) - stock setup cvt. I tore the cvt open and cleaned it up about a month ago with fresh springs and a 681 belt i got from pfs. Fresh grease in the sliding sheave but noticed i need some new seals for it soon. Stock final gears - on 3.50-10" tires inflated to 36psi |
|
|
|
Post by AtariGuy on Aug 15, 2018 12:18:01 GMT -5
I went to a 47mm bore on a stock head about 2k miles ago and that just... it felt similar to stock with a hint of more torque. Going to the 50mm kit, it feels a bit more like it fills in the blanks on general riding, a hint of improved acceleration and a little more top end. Takeoffs from a stop are really the only noticable difference, it just doesnt "slip". Both the 39mm and 47mm bores, i'd give it the gas and it felt like the clutch would slip for ages and then just start to take slowly.
Tbh i do have a set of blue clutch springs and a blue contra, i just didn't install them, once i did test runs with the 50 and felt the takeoff feel less slip, i just put them on the shelf til i could rebuild the sheave, get a koso vari, and order some sliders.
|
|
|
|
Post by dexameth on Aug 15, 2018 12:35:49 GMT -5
Hmm... with the 50mm you could upgrade some things. Get rid of the stock airbox and carburetor AND intake. Run these: Intake manifoldCarburetorUNI Air FilterYou'll need to do a cable anchor mod (flipping it upside down is all) to get the stock throttle cable to reach. When you pop all this on the motor will feed WAY better than that stock setup. The exhaust won't matter much, except for throttle response... I threw a stock one-piece muffler on my stroker build, it was funny how quiet it was! Stock CDI, Coil is fine. I run stock CDI and it has outperformed those aftermarket cheap performance ones and has no rev-limiter. I did do the pickup mod, drilled them open a bit more and clocked it back, didn't notice any difference, might not have clocked it enough. I think your biggest improvement will be the carburetor swap out. Also think about a performance variator, they walk all over any stock variator. |
|
|
|
Post by AtariGuy on Aug 15, 2018 22:36:50 GMT -5
Thanks for the input! I do really wanna get this machine up to wheelie torque - not to do wheelies with it but so i know it's ready for a mild upgear. I'd love to have this cruising wot 45 sitting up and near/early 50's in full tuck. Got a second case set i'll be doing a much more detailed build on once i get some casting proto's from them for a whole nother project.
|
|
|
|
Post by AtariGuy on Apr 16, 2019 19:23:58 GMT -5
Aaaaaaaaand the exhaust busted a couple hours ago. Broke off at the weld what attaches the can to the header. Seems i overlooked one of the two hanger bolts that may have fallen out which attributed to its recent weld failure. Lucky a welder buddy of mine owes me a favor...
|
|
|
|
Post by AtariGuy on Apr 23, 2019 13:20:23 GMT -5
Reinstalled the rewelded stock exhaust - fits a lot cleaner now too. Will take it back off, bake it, soft sandblast the old paint and tiny rust patches off, polish it and coat it with vht clear. Want to let that heat tempering ring through the polish
|
|
|
|
Post by AtariGuy on May 31, 2019 22:55:54 GMT -5
Had the scooty apart for a leaking gearbox gasket. Still had 60ml or so in there. Tore it down, cleaned it out good, coated the gasket in ultragrey, reassembled 90% of it before a thunderstorm rolled in, got it somewhere nice n dry. Will check torques again tomorrow then fill it up with 80w90 and a test ride. While i still have the muffler off, i'm gonna touch it up with some bbq black. Got some fresh sharpie marks in the front and rear pulleys to check travel while i had it apart. More to come
|
|
|
|
Post by AtariGuy on Jun 3, 2019 20:30:45 GMT -5
So i got it all reassembled, added gear oil, then gave 'er what for. Got a question though, seems somethings not right inside the gearbox now, its got a cyclic chatter/buzzing at speeds above 20mph. Has anybody else come across this? I didnt see any shims when i opened it up, and other than (maybe) possibly having put the slip fit gear on the output axle flipped(?) everything went together real smoothly. Pretty sure i'll dig it apart, but if anyone's got ideas for me, that'd be great
|
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Jun 6, 2019 7:50:51 GMT -5
As long as the gears aren't seized up or don't move in and out a lot, the spacing is usually OK. Did you check the bearings while you were in there? See if it changes with rear braking.
|
|
|
|
Post by AtariGuy on Jun 19, 2019 16:38:34 GMT -5
Doesnt change with rear braking (no worse, no better) but i've been having suspicions of bearings. My smallest blind bearing puller collet is messed up so i would have to improvise their removal. Might talk to the shop maintenance guy here if he's got some tools or ideas
|
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Jun 19, 2019 17:29:02 GMT -5
Look up bearing removal with bread or grease or check local loaner tool programs.
|
|
|
|
Post by AtariGuy on May 9, 2023 10:46:34 GMT -5
Biiiiiiig update planned. Living in tennessee, seeing the big hills and winding roads and the crazy drivers around here has me considering modifying the setup greatly. I wanna kill off some of the top end speed it had in minnesota for more pulling power up the hills. I'm assessing new tires, will be replacing the brake pads, and also getting the front suspension rebuilt. Also, i need to find info on replacing motor mount bushings. When weight is loaded on the seat, i can see the rear tire tip slightly. I can feel a slight rearwheel squirrely-ness too as i take it through intersection corners and tight winding city streets. I'm just trying to give it a good low-speed shakedown to find anything else i ought to address before taking it out of town or onto busy roads. I'm not gonna push this bike much this summer, but i will use this time to work out any kinks. Thoughts appreciated!
|
|
|
|
Post by aeroxbud on May 11, 2023 13:24:52 GMT -5
If they are the rubber type bushing. I have replaced them before with just a couple of sockets, and some threaded bar.
You need a socket that will be slightly smaller than the bushing. On the other side use a bigger socket that the bushing can fit into.
Put a threaded bar through both sockets, with the bushing in the middle. A washer and nut on each end will allow you to tighten the nut, forcing the bushing out.
Use some rubber grease on the bushing. And use the same principle to fit the new one.
|
|
