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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 24, 2009 6:33:01 GMT -5
Don't forget the NOS sticker. That'd have to be good for at least 35. I took it a step farther than that... I cut the frame to clear the exhaust this morning... here's the problem... ...and I used Ford Mustang GT touch up paint over the bare metal where it was cut. I'm pretty sure horsepower is soaking into the scooter while it dries.
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 24, 2009 7:27:18 GMT -5
That's better... I took the scoot off of it's center stand and noticed that the center stand touches the exhaust when it's up. I don't really think it will tear anything up, but I have a feeling it will make an annoying rattle. Not much I can do to change that other than wrapping the exhaust or the center stand.
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Post by stepthrutuner on Sept 24, 2009 8:37:41 GMT -5
Hummm... Sunl S(a)L(een)50QT-16. Hold that wild pony's head down!
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Post by Enviromoto on Sept 24, 2009 8:39:59 GMT -5
haahaha mustang paint hahahaaha
Stage 15 powerpack now includes real mustang paint and a nos sticker good for 75mph!
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 24, 2009 8:54:12 GMT -5
Nice, the Saleenl. ;D Kinda sounds like something that should be yodeled.
Stage 16 adds your choice of fake chrome or fake carbon fiber tape.
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Post by stepthrutuner on Sept 24, 2009 10:14:50 GMT -5
Stage 16 adds your choice of fake chrome or fake carbon fiber tape. CAUTION!!! CAUTION!!! You are about to enter the 'Ricer' zone.
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Post by 2strokd on Sept 24, 2009 11:20:55 GMT -5
Yeah, the black GT paint is good for like 10 on the stang so you should notice an increase on the scooter for sure! WARNING! The HP will dissipate if the paint dulls, so keep it coated well...
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 24, 2009 11:26:57 GMT -5
CAUTIONS... WARNINGS... You guys are making me nervous.
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 24, 2009 16:30:18 GMT -5
The new exhaust is on now with homemade brackets. I probably should ahve cleaned up or polished the brackets, but once I got it all together and secure I didn't feel like pulling it back apart right now. I started it up and it wouldn't idle even with the idle screw all the way in. I tried changing mixture settings to no avail. I ended up cutting a coil out of the idle screw's tension spring so that I could screw it in more. Now it idles fine. I don't know if that is the result of increased duration, modifying the butterfly, or what exactly. I let it warm up for about 15 minutes and then shut it down. It had pretty good throttle response, but it may be different once I get on it and try to ride it. Even after getting hot, I haven't seen any oil leaks so far. Hopefully I won't develop a leak down the road. For anyone else that may have issues with the base gasket leaking, here's what I did : - Cleaned the cases and cylinder's mating surfaces very well with gasket scrapers, then a block sander and some 400 grit paper, then I used a medium 3M scotchbrite pad to go over them lightly, and then finished cleaning using a shop towel with some brake parts cleaner. Make sure you give the brake cleaner time to evaporate before continuing. -Installed the knock pins/dowels in the cases. -Applied a coating of Permatex Ultra Black RTV roughly 1/8" thick to the cases, making sure to keep the cam chain out of the way. -I let the RTV set up for about 40 minutes. The instructions tell you to assemble immediately, but I've used this method on other things to get them to seal. -Installed the cylinder and continued installation of the top end. - Once the cam and rocker assembly was in, I torqued the 4 cylinder studs to 10ft-lbs and installed the 2 6mm bolts on the side fairly snug. -I let that set overnight. -The next morning I torqued the cylinder studs to 12, 13, 14, 14.5, and finally 15ft-lbs. I tightened the side bolts with a regular ratchet, since I don't have a wrench that goes lower than 10ft-lbs.
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Post by 2strokd on Sept 24, 2009 18:36:53 GMT -5
And you put a Uni(clone) on it too ;D
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Post by stepthrutuner on Sept 24, 2009 20:32:17 GMT -5
That is a pretty exhaust. I'm hoping you're in for a pleasant surprise once you get it on the road.
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 24, 2009 22:02:45 GMT -5
And you put a Uni(clone) on it too ;D Actually, this little turd got a real UNI. I did that when I did the 70cc kit etc...
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 24, 2009 22:25:02 GMT -5
It's not really much faster than it was. It's still pathetic. It's slow to speed, and slow topped out. I started out with an 88 main and my max speed on the speedo was 38.34MPH over 2 miles round trip on a back road. I swapped to a 95 main, because somehow my 90 and 92 are missing out of my sealed jet box(?). Same route, 38.72MPH max but it felt rich. I drilled an 88 main (had 2) with a #65 jet drill, which I think is an 89-90... I dunno, it was bigger than 88 and smaller than 95 so it seemed like the right choice. I went a max of 39.49MPH on the same stretch. I took the scoot to the radar sign, which is now right in the middle of town where I can't use it to tune too well, and my speedo is about 1/2 to 1 MPH too fast. So I've hit a max of about 39MPH. That's an improvement, but not 7MPH like it sounds. The scooter had gone faster than 32MPH before, but it was always 32MPH from my house to the sign. In reality, I've picked up 2-3MPH for many hours of work, a cam, and an exhaust. The exhasut is leaking btw, but I had someone over so I haven't messed with it anymore. At least I got to shoot out some cool blue flames. ;D
That 0.170" of piston to valve clearance is troubling me now. There's just too much into this thing to be that slow. Could it be that I'm just low on compression with the crappy made kit that has a piston sitting too far below deck to make any real power? For automotive purposes, it's usually alright to get as low as .110" intake and .130" exhaust clearance, and that's with aluminum rods that stretch more. Even that leaves me .040" that could be milled. Standard specs would leave me .070". That's not much room, but can be a lot in an engine.
I need to see if a tach will work now to get an idea what kinda Rs I'm pulling. That would be useful info. It'll prob still act crazy like before and not readout when I need it to.
On a positive note, the headlight works so much better now, since the new stator. No interference with the turn signals, stays bright even at idle, good stuff. The tail light is junk however. It's the typical Chinese crap. The brake light works fine but the tail light contact doesn't hit right so most of the time it's only a brake light. I'm thinking about just putting a rectangular trailer light on there and being done with it.
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Post by 190mech on Sept 25, 2009 5:14:50 GMT -5
On cam chain engines moving the head down(base gasket removal/decking cyl top)will slacken the cam chain,thus retarding the cam timing,making a 'sluggish' engine.Can slot the cam sprocket to get the timing back,but the chain tensioner can only take up so much slack.A 4 stroke is touchy on cam timing,also they tend to like as much spark advance as they can stand..My 2 cents..
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 25, 2009 6:33:29 GMT -5
I don't feel much like pulling the motor out again, so I won't have to worry about the cam issues with milling. Thanks for reminding me though. I was kind of figuring that the cylinder was actually taller than stock, so I wouldn't really be removing height when compared to a stock kit. I don't remember the stock piston sitting as far below deck, but I suppose it could be a difference in the piston as well.
I might have to mod my coil pickup to get a few more degrees of ign advance. With the compression I probably have now, it should handle it fine. I thought of it, but never did it when I did the rest of this work because I was thinking that an engine I had hoped would be high revving would not like the advanced ign timing.
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