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Post by KymcoKid on May 22, 2018 10:25:46 GMT -5
Thank you all for your input. Yesterday I finally managed to get the shifter tube unstuck and out but not without trashing it. Like other parts for these they are readily available and not that expensive. I should be opening up the engine today or tomorrow morning. Thanks to you a vintage Vespra get life and a happy home.All have great support for you on this project.If you come to a part that you seem to can't find.Heeters.com.Their store has been around generations.I was look for reed valve,couldn't find anywhere,but Mr.Dave had some.I paid for 2,one spare.he send 5.I like ask something Scootopia is in Myrtle Beach,that's were all my family,Conway and Aynor.The Vespa looks in great shape."You Got This" |
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Post by oldgeek on May 22, 2018 16:31:09 GMT -5
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Post by pinkscoot on May 23, 2018 20:04:02 GMT -5
So today I opened the engine up. There are a lot of videos and tutorials so it was an easy process. The fly wheel didn't want to come off. Who knows the last time it was opened. This engine has a self pulling flywheel. It has a bolt then a circlip. You loosen the bolt against the circlip. First try it pulled the circlip out. PB Blaster and waiting. A little googling and another try with circlip pliers holding it in place and off it came. The stator was pretty clean and right on its timing mark:
  The scoot only shows around 4000 miles on the odometer but the cable is missing so I don't know how accurate it is. When I opened the clutch the cover was pretty clean and the brass plunger showed very little wear. The clutch reeked of varnish. The oil had trashed it. I open that tomorrow to get a better look. Everything came apart as its supposed to and except for the varnish is pretty clean. The gears all looked good. The crucifer had some minor wear but I'll replace it anyway. The cush drive feels tight. I'll inspect it closer tomorrow. There was a big area of bad gas and oil in the bottom of the crank case that will need cleaning:
 
The seals were also chewed a bit so the leaked. Two things I was worried about were the crank and the Rotary valve pad. This is the crank:   
Any opinions about being able to reuse it would be great. The rotary valve pad was smooth except for a score both sides. Probably from the pilot jet:
I did some research and like everything there are lots of opinions. I think I'll try cleaning it and putting JB weld on it using a razor blade to keep it clean. Then smooth it out with sand paper. This should restore it back. Ant opinions on the JBWeld would be appreciated I've never used it before for case work so I know nothing about which to use.
Tomorrow I'll clean the carb and start cleaning cases. That gunk will be a mess to get out. The clutch will get opened and inspected. I have a list of parts going and I hope to get an order in next week.
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Post by oldgeek on May 23, 2018 20:29:18 GMT -5
So today I opened the engine up. There are a lot of videos and tutorials so it was an easy process. The fly wheel didn't want to come off. Who knows the last time it was opened. This engine has a self pulling flywheel. It has a bolt then a circlip. You loosen the bolt against the circlip. First try it pulled the circlip out. PB Blaster and waiting. A little googling and another try with circlip pliers holding it in place and off it came. The stator was pretty clean and right on its timing mark:
The scoot only shows around 4000 miles on the odometer but the cable is missing so I don't know how accurate it is. When I opened the clutch the cover was pretty clean and the brass plunger showed very little wear. The clutch reeked of varnish. The oil had trashed it. I open that tomorrow to get a better look. Everything came apart as its supposed to and except for the varnish is pretty clean. The gears all looked good. The crucifer had some minor wear but I'll replace it anyway. The cush drive feels tight. I'll inspect it closer tomorrow. There was a big area of bad gas and oil in the bottom of the crank case that will need cleaning:
The seals were also chewed a bit so the leaked. Two things I was worried about were the crank and the Rotary valve pad. This is the crank:
Any opinions about being able to reuse it would be great. The rotary valve pad was smooth except for a score both sides. Probably from the pilot jet:
I did some research and like everything there are lots of opinions. I think I'll try cleaning it and putting JB weld on it using a razor blade to keep it clean. Then smooth it out with sand paper. This should restore it back. Ant opinions on the JBWeld would be appreciated I've never used it before for case work so I know nothing about which to use.
Tomorrow I'll clean the carb and start cleaning cases. That gunk will be a mess to get out. The clutch will get opened and inspected. I have a list of parts going and I hope to get an order in next week.
You know I dont know jack about those engines, but I would ditch the points and go electronic cause you dont need the headache of points. The crank looks good to me, If the mileage is correct it should be fine. I dont know how critical the rotary valve is, but I dont think JB weld would adhere very well without roughing up the area where you put it. Maybe the pros can tell you if it is bad enough to worry about?  |
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Post by KymcoKid on May 23, 2018 20:53:10 GMT -5
My family are Collins's was a Huge tobacco farmer in Galivants ferry.Also sweet man cave.I have a 4x8 concrete slab.with my storage room.It does the trick.  |
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Post by pinkscoot on May 23, 2018 21:13:39 GMT -5
Everyone keeps saying electronic so I'll listen. It will probably be when I go to the larger cylinder in the future. For now I just want to get it running.
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Post by oldgeek on May 23, 2018 21:22:16 GMT -5
My family are Collins's was a Huge tobacco farmer in Galivants ferry.Also sweet man cave.I have a 4x8 concrete slab.with my storage room.It does the trick. What do you know, my mother was from Galivants Ferry, dirt poor, she cropped tobacco there in the 40's and 50's when she was growing up. We buried my grandmother there in 1976. Sorry to hijack your thread pinkscoot |
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Post by pinkscoot on May 24, 2018 7:36:42 GMT -5
No problem, my fathers family were tobacco farmers in Southern Maryland.
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Post by drc174 on May 24, 2018 9:18:59 GMT -5
Oh Boy this Looks messy.
Rotary repairs are tricky and there isn’t really anyone that does it well here in the US anymore I think. Jb Weld should work though.
What i would look into: get an eBay rebuild kit, 50$ and you get even all the bearings, and they are SKF
Rebuild the primary. If you are in doubt, rebuild it. It costs about 10$ for a rebuild kit and it would be really annoying to fix it when you have to open it up again
There is a way I think in mixing up bearings and seals that you can use a PX crank and ignition, but I have not explored that (yet)
All in all, a proper rebuild on this won’t be cheap. Consider a full LML 5 port engine off eBay maybe? Those things are around 700-750 shipped
Also I would be happy to help if you decide to go down the rebuild path, i am just a road trip away
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Post by pinkscoot on May 24, 2018 21:01:23 GMT -5
drc174 I was looking over my needs today and priced out what I need using the original crank and was at $300 range. I'm rethinking the crank so the price will go up. I found the usual arguments that JB weld won't work and that it works great you just need to use it right. I did explore more and pulled the bearing out of the Flywheel side and found this:
The seal had melted all over the bearing. I went to Autozone and rented a bearing splitter to pull the bearing from the crank:
I am suspicious of the crank. I'll see how out of whack it is tomorrow so I know if I need to add it to the list. Tomorrow I'll get to the clutch and maybe some cleaning.
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Post by sevenninesandtens on Aug 11, 2020 10:39:24 GMT -5
so what happened with this one???
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Post by pinkscoot on Aug 12, 2020 9:49:37 GMT -5
It's sleeping very comfortably in the back of the garage waiting for me to retire. I have too many projects in front of it that I can handle on a week end. I want to start and finish this in one pop.
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