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Post by fuzzyruttin on Jul 13, 2018 19:41:59 GMT -5
...leads me to believe hub interface metal is eating away. So far, 1300 miles on GY6 Ruckus. So the gremlins begin. This one is the most disturbing, first thing first. Maintenance procedure mandates that the hub nut is re-torgued every couple or so weeks, otherwise floppy rear wheel. Not cool. After taking the wheel off tonight, this is what I found. Inner hub. Note recession. Connecting spline. Note shiny part that matches up with recession above. The shiny part at the base of the connecting spline, I have to believe, is eating its way into the inner hub. Hence the need to re-torque the hub nut periodically. Anyone else experience this problem? Looks like there should be a hefty stainless steel washer installed at this interface. Or something. But I am not sure what else that might interfere with. Anyone else experience this? Suggestions? Basic solution? Thanks
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Post by snaker on Jul 14, 2018 11:12:40 GMT -5
My eyeballs aren't the best anymore but I'm not seeing anything wrong in the pictures. The end of your brake drum center should be stacked up against that wheel bearing and tightened together with the hub nut. They wouldn't be spinning against each other unless they aren't being tightened together enough or the bearing is bad and seizing up. Are you seeing actual rubbing marks?
I would check two things.
1. Inspect the wheel bearing. Should spin freely and not be rough or sloppy.
2. Spin the hub nut onto the axle without the drum being installed. Measure how far the nut is from the axle end. Assemble everything. Now measure nut to axle end again. You want the last measurement to be less than the first. That tells you that the nut is bottoming on the stacked components, not the end of the threads.
Extra security for you would be some sort of thread locker, safety wire, a fresh nut.
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Post by fuzzyruttin on Jul 14, 2018 15:38:09 GMT -5
The bearing is fine. The nut is definitely bottoming on the stacked components. I was liberal with the red locktite. Pretty sure the nut is not backing off. I've been using pneumatic torque wrench to get it nice and snug. Few days later, the wheel is wobbly again because the shiny center part of the bearing (red arrow first pic) is embedding itself in the hub (red arrow second pic). I bought this washer today, greased it up, and reinstalled everything, fingers crossed. The outer face of the hub is experiencing wear as well. So I got a washer to install on the outer face. And all snugged back up again. Went for about a 5 mile ride or so, and found it a little wobbly already after getting back home. However, I attribute that to flattening out of the burs that had developed. Torqued it down again. See how it goes on the next ride.
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Post by Happypancake! on Jul 14, 2018 15:52:10 GMT -5
Are you missing a washer in the gears itself?
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Post by fuzzyruttin on Jul 14, 2018 15:57:29 GMT -5
Are you missing a washer in the gears itself? You mean the gears behind the spline? I don't think so. It's a simple procedure - pull out long stock gear spline, replace with new shorty. If there were any washers I would've put them back in.
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Post by benji on Jul 14, 2018 23:25:00 GMT -5
This is happening to a buddy of mine with a GY6 motor. Almost like the splines are loose on the axle. He's been jamming it full of tin foil to make it work, but he needs a new axle and wheel. I think you do too. and when you get the new axle and wheel, safety wire that nut so it doesn't back out.
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Post by fuzzyruttin on Jul 15, 2018 9:26:44 GMT -5
This is happening to a buddy of mine with a GY6 motor. Almost like the splines are loose on the axle. He's been jamming it full of tin foil to make it work, but he needs a new axle and wheel. I think you do too. and when you get the new axle and wheel, safety wire that nut so it doesn't back out. The hub is separate from the wheel, so luckily I wouldn't have to spend 100s of dollar to replace it. But what's to say I won't be stuck with the same problem over again? Expendable parts are annoying. But I do agree that the spline connection is not exactly snug with the hub lining, and between accelerating and braking, there's enough play to wreak havoc at the joints. Foil would seem to help, but man, why isn't every GY6 Ruck experiencing this? Bastardized Chinese P.O.S. (sorry that's just my frustration coming out)
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Post by benji on Jul 15, 2018 10:56:16 GMT -5
I'm assuming it's because of the Chinese origin. Is there a Taiwanese axle you can find?
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Post by benji on Jul 15, 2018 11:00:43 GMT -5
Maybe a shitty metal hub? But I'm guessing the axle is smaller that the wheel.
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Post by pinkscoot on Jul 15, 2018 14:20:05 GMT -5
It could be that the impact gun you are using isn't tightening it enough. Get a good Torque Wrench and tighten it to the manufacturers spec.
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Post by snaker on Jul 15, 2018 19:49:00 GMT -5
So Benji, if I understand you right, your suggesting that the fitting between the axle splines and the hub splines might be overly sloppy? If so then the wheel would be wallowing around on the axle as the wheel spins and the hub end is grinding itself away against the much harder bearing race. Then maybe the nut isn't backing off so much as the hub would be grinding itself shorter, causing the nut to become loose. OP could put the wheel on without the nut and wiggle it around checking for slop .
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Post by fuzzyruttin on Jul 16, 2018 17:50:05 GMT -5
So Benji, if I understand you right, your suggesting that the fitting between the axle splines and the hub splines might be overly sloppy? If so then the wheel would be wallowing around on the axle as the wheel spins and the hub end is grinding itself away against the much harder bearing race. Then maybe the nut isn't backing off so much as the hub would be grinding itself shorter, causing the nut to become loose. OP could put the wheel on without the nut and wiggle it around checking for slop . Yeah there's a bit of slop before tightening down the nut. To be honest, I can't remember if there was _that_ much slop when I first put everything together about 1300 miles ago. I did maybe a 20 mile test ride tonight on long hilly roads, so not a lot of stop and go. It was sloppy about half way into the ride. I brought tools and tightened it up. Got home, sloppy again. Between this and my broken header pipe, the scoot is completely unreliable right now. Sucks.
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Post by fuzzyruttin on Jul 16, 2018 17:52:55 GMT -5
It could be that the impact gun you are using isn't tightening it enough. Get a good Torque Wrench and tighten it to the manufacturers spec. It's as tight as it's gonna go without someone sitting on the bike and holding the brakes to keep the wheel from turning. Probably getting close to 100 ft lbs.
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Post by pinkscoot on Jul 17, 2018 19:02:59 GMT -5
My vespa specs at 105 NM so 100 ft lbs should be good if your sure thats what the impact gun is giving you.
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Post by fuzzyruttin on Jul 18, 2018 19:33:50 GMT -5
My vespa specs at 105 NM so 100 ft lbs should be good if your sure thats what the impact gun is giving you. The impact wrench moves the nut just a little bit further after using a hand-driven socket. I have a proper torque wrench but it doesn't make much sense to use it if I am just torquing the crap out of it regardless.
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