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Post by katt on Jul 21, 2018 22:21:26 GMT -5
I have checked my belt about 1,500 miles ago and it was little signs of wear nothing major, however today i opened it up and it looked very worn on outside only.
I don't any feel any rough surfaces on metal parts of clutch and torque converter, why only outside part worn out?
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 22, 2018 7:17:41 GMT -5
Looks like one of the belts inside broke. Time for a new one.
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Post by katt on Jul 22, 2018 11:38:18 GMT -5
Is this wear pattern considered normal i thought it just gets torn not fall apart layer by layer. By the way with that belt it still drove good at that wear level.
I went to tire shop to use their impact gun and unscrew torque converter from crankshaft, however tightened it by ratchet with my hand and it come loose in like 1 minute of riding likely it only broke blades from white plastic fan no other damage.
Then i asked tire shop to tighten it with impact wrench you think its going to hold, isn't it self tightening?
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 22, 2018 17:25:55 GMT -5
Belts blow totally apart sometimes. I wouldn't call it normal, but it happens. You should see the remains of some of my belts. Just chunks, strands, and fluff. Ideally, you'd like it to wear evenly and predictably till it narrows enough that performance changes for the worse or it reaches a service limit. That's not always how it goes.
Are you talking about the variator? Some people call the torque driver (part of the rear pulley) a torque converter, but it's not attached to the crankshaft. Either way, not self tightening. It should hold if tightened with an impact either way, as long as it's not so tight that it strips threads.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Jul 23, 2018 11:53:08 GMT -5
The fasteners on both the variator(front) and clutch/converter(rear) should both be tightened to around 35-36 ft/lb. A impact wrench is NOT the tool to use as it is almost impossible to measure how tight it is making the fastener. I think the supplied nuts are 'self-locking' with an embedded plastic rib that binds against the threads of the respective crankshaft and input shaft. Self-locking fasteners can wear out the locking feature by repeated removal/installation. It might not hurt to get new ones now and again. The variator and clutch bell may be held by strap wrenches or various 'tools' that jam them from turning. It does not pay to over-tighten either one, as stripped threads may require replacing the crankshaft or the input shaft to the final drive gearbox. The former means disassembling the engine, the latter the disassembly of the gear box. tom
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Post by katt on Jul 23, 2018 15:42:07 GMT -5
Susks but well what can i do reliable torque wrench TDI or better brand can easily cost $100-200 hundred.
Way i tightened a variator last time i took it apart with impact was using 2 ratchets one on the side of generator and other at the variator side both tightening at the same time and it hold pretty good, i also put cylinder head by hand no problem so far.
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PirateLabs
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 296
Location: Bowling Green, KY
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Post by PirateLabs on Jul 23, 2018 19:52:16 GMT -5
I hate to say this but you can not torque cylinder head bolts by hand with any degree of accuracy. I bought an H.F. torque wrench a while back for like $20 with a coupon. It has worked well for me. When it is time to pull off my head, I will buy another one that measures in inch-pounds instead of foot pounds so that will be accurate for the head bolts.
My late father used to sell Snap-on tools back in the early 1950's and, he had a going deal with their torque wrenches. He offered one for free to any mechanic that could torque 2 bolts to within 10% of each other. In all those years he sold those tools, he never once had to give away a torque wrench. All of the mechanics he called on would swear they had a "feel" and would never need one. Well, not one of them ever even got close. He sold a lot of torque wrenches.
Just passing it on.
Bill
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Post by katt on Jul 23, 2018 20:35:56 GMT -5
Here's the technique i have come up with you go try this on 4 nuts when you have spare minute then check with torque wrench how close.
It requires screw driver that accepts bits.
1. turn nut by hand till its tight 2. turn nut with screw driver make sure you grip is same for each bolt, do each until you hand can't turn any more 3. (optional) take ratchet and hold by the end (close to the bit) put your hand around bit and turn every bolt judge by degree of pain you feel in your finger joints should be same for each nut. 4. hold ratchet normally in 12, 3, 6 or 9 o-clock position for each bolt and depending on size of the bolt from that position add 45 or 90 degree.
for step 4 you should have feel for when bolt about to strip based on the size, material (aluminum or metal) and experience.
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PirateLabs
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 296
Location: Bowling Green, KY
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Post by PirateLabs on Jul 23, 2018 22:05:36 GMT -5
Sorry, but I do not need to try your trick to know it does not work. Look at it this way, if it did work, then there would never be any need for torque wrenches ever and no one would manufacture them and no one would buy them right? If you are having good luck with it then, that's good but, I would not recommend it.
Bill
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Post by katt on Jul 23, 2018 23:26:56 GMT -5
I in no way mean its drives torque wrench useless, but again other than beam type torque wrench all rest that are precise (i don't mean Craftsman i would only use that junk on lug nuts) cost $150 or more pretty big investment. If someone turn nuts like me for years he can build experience to tighten 8-19mm size bolts/nuts by hand to the strongest hold point without applying too much force to damaging threads.
Of course i would not pass your father's test that he used as selling point, however i assure you it would work just fine.
Now that trick i described previously is used if you need to make sure you do somewhat equal torque for series of nuts 4, 6, 8 or 14 bolts (like oil pan in automatic transmission). Dont get me wrong i love to have a torque wrench as a gift, but really you need to have 2 for low torque and high torque applications and it can run up to $400-500 plus you have to take them to be calibrate every year it can cost close to $100.
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Post by greginisn on Jul 24, 2018 1:01:24 GMT -5
I've had a similar problem with the variator nut coming loose after start up. You must be extremely precise in your variator / roller assembly so it has actually assembled tightly before cinching down the crankshaft nut.
Also what I wanted to say at the start was. these drive systems seem to drive using the widest part of the belt as the contact surface. Altho I would expect the drive force to be exerted along the entire side of the belt. Maybe that occurs after the new belt wears in. Don't know.
Greg
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 24, 2018 8:51:22 GMT -5
3. (optional) take ratchet and hold by the end (close to the bit) put your hand around bit and turn every bolt judge by degree of pain you feel in your finger joints should be same for each nut. That would make for entertaining specs in service manuals. Item | Recommended Torque | Valve Cover Bolts | I think I feel it. + 1/8 Turn | Cylinder Nuts | That doesn't feel so good. + 1/4 Turn | Variator Nut | Ouch! + 3/8 Turn | Axle Nut | Oww %^&$! + 1/2 Turn |
I tighten my clutch and variator nuts with an impact, but using a torque stick. I don't claim that it's the most precise method, but it has worked for me for years. Without the torque stick, you will (at least eventually) strip threads. I used to use an impact on it's own, but I'd end up with messed up threads sooner or later. Torque wrench and holding tool is of course the proper way. I paid a little over $100 for my last torque wrench by CDI. Been pleased with it sitting next to 2 others by Snap-On. I tried a $10 HF torque wrench, but it was way off and I tossed it. If you do go cheap, I'd advise looking into home testing and calibration. Hopefully you get one that is near spec, but if not you could do more harm than good with it unless it's checked/calibrated.
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Post by tocoo on Jul 24, 2018 11:06:15 GMT -5
People say a torque wrench must be calibrated regularly, but I do not know how to to do that.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Jul 24, 2018 13:16:25 GMT -5
I suspect a measured weight applied to the 'middle of the handle' could be used to calibrate, and doing so at low and high ends of the range capability would give an approximation that would be 'close enough'. The other method would be to use a mechanism to raise a specified weight from its resting position, with a particular radius wheel or pulley(cable wrapped around and suspending the weight) and noting the 'click point' or the bending of a non-clicky torque wrench. I figure even the HF measures are closer than my 'seat of the arm wrestle' measurement by 'feelings'. Maybe not. tom
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PirateLabs
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 296
Location: Bowling Green, KY
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Post by PirateLabs on Jul 24, 2018 13:26:28 GMT -5
Easy way to calibrate any torque wrench yourself is to tighten 6 bolts with your wrench...then go buy a very good, high quality torque wrench and set it to the setting you had your cheap wrench set to. Tighten the bolts and...if it clicks right away...your old wrench is good...or...if it is off a bit, make a note of how much and which way. Oh, then you return the expensive wrench, ha ha.
I am not suggesting that anyone do this you understand...
Bill
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