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Post by 190mech on Dec 15, 2018 5:37:02 GMT -5
The Malossi overrange doesnt have an inner spline for the Mina's as some of their high end cranks have a solid shaft like yours.Link below; 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/3442/malossi-large-spline-over-rangeI used a GY6-150 crank end and variator for Snoopy's YZ125 build,never had a slip there(ate some belts though..) I wonder if something is keeping the ramp plate from being properly clamped to the crank shoulder?? Love your machining setup!!!  |
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Post by oldgeek on Dec 15, 2018 9:03:06 GMT -5
It is very strange. It seemed like a piece of the shoulder fractured, because I used a small file to knock a small point down that was sticking up and seemed to be digging into the ramp plate. The crank may have been improperly tempered, if it was even tempered at all? Krappy metal? Shoulder and parts not parallel like gsx600racer mentioned? |
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Post by SMALL CC TEK on Dec 24, 2018 18:40:24 GMT -5
How about a think thrust washer from Granger ? They have them in many grades of hardness and thickness I say that cause i used one on a 250 variator when i lost original I got so lucky ... Pulled it of thought i put it in the magnetic tray and poof it was gone we looked for it for 30 min be for moving on sucked lol Or if you have a Mcfaddendales where you live they are good for lot of stuff Haa that's a stock kymco boss shouldered i see i have 100 of them lol
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Post by oldgeek on Jan 9, 2019 22:00:45 GMT -5
I have been busy with the years end paperwork for the business, as a result there is little progress on this project. I did manage to finish lapping the variator seat on the crank, and both ends of the bushing, so all that will be fresh when reassembled.
I am on the fence about using the stock head I modded. The squish varies quite a bit so I hate to use it knowing that. I have a couple more stock heads I could modify, I just gotta commit to the time it takes to get it done, hopefully better this time around.
Also it appears the state has "never received" my paperwork application to make my naked Kymco scoot a motorcycle. I will have to redo it all if I want to get that done.
And, over the holidays I pulled 1 of my 2 sets of spare Kymco ZX cases from the shelf, and will start the long process of preparing them for the NEXT motor project. A 54mm AC 52.6mm stroke 120cc Kymco ZX.
Long live the 2T!
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 6, 2019 18:31:10 GMT -5
I mentioned in another thread about a fairly simple mod that could be done to a stock Kymco reed block or even a Honda AF16 reed block, to help them flow better. I have not tried to run one yet, so who knows if it will increase performance in any way. The pictures on the left are stock, and to the right is the modded one. All I did was carefully dremel out the center part of the block, then used the stock metal reeds as a template to trace out a single reed from CF. One thing I like about the stock Kymco reed block is that it has some type of rubber compound molded into the block where the reeds seat. Better for sealing and better for the reed life IMO. I dont feel like the modified reed block will flow as well as a CT style reed block, but the modified stock reed block will NOT add a bunch of case volume like the CT style block will either, so...........   |
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Post by pitobread on Feb 6, 2019 20:29:40 GMT -5
Harleyracer was looking at purchasing this very thing online.
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Post by gsx600racer on Feb 6, 2019 21:14:39 GMT -5
I mentioned in another thread about a fairly simple mod that could be done to a stock Kymco reed block or even a Honda AF16 reed block, to help them flow better. I have not tried to run one yet, so who knows if it will increase performance in any way. The pictures on the left are stock, and to the right is the modded one. All I did was carefully dremel out the center part of the block, then used the stock metal reeds as a template to trace out a single reed from CF. One thing I like about the stock Kymco reed block is that it has some type of rubber compound molded into the block where the reeds seat. Better for sealing and better for the reed life IMO. I dont feel like the modified reed block will flow as well as a CT style reed block, but the modified stock reed block will NOT add a bunch of case volume like the CT style block will either, so........... Looks good. Hopefully there are some gains.  |
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 7, 2019 19:30:25 GMT -5
Well I finally said screw it all, gonna send it just the way it is. Took about 2 hours to slap it all back together. I used the stock Kymco head that I modified. I just got it off of the lift, going to do some test runs in the industrial park where Scootopia is located.
More later.
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 7, 2019 21:25:30 GMT -5
Well it runs! Lots of torque, easily more than any scooter I have had so far. The stock clutch I am using is not going to cut it. I only rode it around the industrial park because I do not have plates on this scoot. I did not register it as a moped back in September, when the state made scooter registration required here. Instead I filled out paperwork requesting it be classified as a motorcycle and mailed it to the state DMV as required. I never heard anything back from the state so I asked the DMV to check progress and they told me that the state never received my paperwork and that I would have to submit everything again. Anyway I will likely stick one of my 4 other "MOPED" plates on it for a while and cross my fingers.
Anyways the test rides were pretty much like the last ones. Crazy launch despite an inadequate clutch, its amazing how fast it gets moving with a 300+lb payload. Carb tune is pretty decent, there is a slight stutter just off of idle sometimes and I have not checked WOT yet. I still have the premium gas that I boosted to 100 octane in the tank, because I just used the last of my standard premix in the blue ZX earlier today. I noticed that it is easier to kickstart now that compression is not quite so high. Cylinder head temps never hit 300°F despite my excessive use of the throttle, so lowering the compression must have helped there.
I almost dumped the damm thing good! I was doing some runs up and down a side road when some dude waves me down to stop. I was just going to keep going but decided to be nice and turn around to see what he wanted. As I was turning around I pinned the throttle before I had it pointed in the intended direction, The front came way up headed left, came down hard, overcorrected, put the right foot down and now my foot and lower leg hurts. It turns out the dude asked if I wanted a 2 liter Dr Pepper that was in the back of his truck because he and his friends dont like Dr Pepper. I said sure? again being nice. I finally figured out he probably thought I was homeless because of my ratty work clothes and ratty wires hanging moped, and there are a lot of homeless people in that area.
I am looking forward to getting this thing dialed in eventually, and to see how long it lasts. My previous WOT run last time sputtered at the end, I think someone mentioned the bowl may have run out of fuel. I may have to ditch the petcock and put larger fuel lines on it before I do any WOT runs. I also noticed a couple leaks on the exhaust as I was putting it back on, Ill have to fix them eventually.
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Post by gsx600racer on Feb 7, 2019 22:45:36 GMT -5
Just remember with bigger fuel lines and loosing the petcock, that little tiny hole at the needle valve seat is still going to be the same size. Gravity still not going to change. Adding a pulse fuel pump might give you more fuel flow tho.  |
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 8, 2019 7:23:12 GMT -5
Just remember with bigger fuel lines and loosing the petcock, that little tiny hole at the needle valve seat is still going to be the same size. Gravity still not going to change. Adding a pulse fuel pump might give you more fuel flow tho. Very good point, I'll have to remember that. I figure I am likely close to the limits of the PHBG 21mm carb, I have been contemplating the CP carb since it goes up to 24mm. Nothing is in the budget ATM so I will have to make due with what I have. I could always open the float valve seat up a bit, 2Stroke Stuffing had good results on a different style carb. |
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Post by Lucass2T on Feb 8, 2019 8:29:37 GMT -5
Just remember with bigger fuel lines and loosing the petcock, that little tiny hole at the needle valve seat is still going to be the same size. Gravity still not going to change. Adding a pulse fuel pump might give you more fuel flow tho. Very good point, I'll have to remember that. I figure I am likely close to the limits of the PHBG 21mm carb, I have been contemplating the CP carb since it goes up to 24mm. Nothing is in the budget ATM so I will have to make due with what I have. I could always open the float valve seat up a bit, 2Stroke Stuffing had good results on a different style carb. The phbg21 is also on the ktm 65 which is a 15hp motor. It's possible yours pushes near 15 but honestly i doubt it. I don't think you're running out of fuel. |
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 8, 2019 8:50:39 GMT -5
Very good point, I'll have to remember that. I figure I am likely close to the limits of the PHBG 21mm carb, I have been contemplating the CP carb since it goes up to 24mm. Nothing is in the budget ATM so I will have to make due with what I have. I could always open the float valve seat up a bit, 2Stroke Stuffing had good results on a different style carb. The phbg21 is also on the ktm 65 which is a 15hp motor. It's possible yours pushes near 15 but honestly i doubt it. I don't think you're running out of fuel. Thanks, that gives me some good info so now I know. And yeah, I doubt I got 15HP but you never know. I also should mention that I am using a decent clone of the Dellorto PHBG21, if there is such a thing Lol! |
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 8, 2019 20:16:52 GMT -5
Since everything seems good enough on this ATM, I went for a ride this afternoon. Only about 15 miles, but enough to uncover some small issues. First off the clutch was slipping quite a bit, and it no longer pulls the front end up. I also found a pretty lean spot around 1/3 - 1/2 throttle, it rattles if I stay there and sometimes when I am passing through that area. Temps are back up around 300° and 340° when coming off WOT. I only got it up to around 55 mph due to the clutch, and it still seems to literally run out of gas after around 15-20 seconds at WOT. I held it WOT a couple times to see if anything happens, and it feels like it is starving for gas or surging. Afterward it still seems fine and it still pulls well and sounds good. I put it on the lift to check a few things, and change the clutch. The variator, ramp plate and crank look fine, and the polini ramp plate guides were not broken so hopefully I got that portion straightened out this time around. I picked up an Artek clutch over the holidays, so I swapped the stock clutch out for the Artek. I am hoping it will help.  I also cut a quick vent at the clutch, Eventually I want to cut the entire circle part in front of the clutch out.  I also took care of a small leak at the flange of the exhaust pipe by installing a new gasket and repositioning the pipe on the cylinder flange a bit. There is not much room for slop there. I also put some tygon fuel line from the tank to the carb and checked flow. There is plenty of gas coming from the petcock. I only had time for a couple WOT runs after the changes. The new clutch has helped, but I will have to give it some time to bed in properly. Top speed was back up to 60 mph, but the out of gas problem is still there. |
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Post by 190mech on Feb 8, 2019 23:36:36 GMT -5
Might try a thinner jet needle to richen up that part throttle,I'd rather have a rich stutter there than a knock.. Does sound like a fuel flow issue at WFO,if fuel flow and tank/carb venting are good,gotta try a bigger sized inlet valve.. PS,Love that added clutch shoe area on the new clutch! |
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