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Post by Lucass2T on Aug 18, 2023 4:30:54 GMT -5
Whats the stroke on this monster OG?
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Post by oldgeek on Aug 18, 2023 5:49:36 GMT -5
Whats the stroke on this monster OG? I have a couple cranks I have been trying to see which one sets up best. Each one is advertised as 52.4mm but I have not measured them yet.
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Post by oldgeek on Aug 18, 2023 15:56:42 GMT -5
Took care of the problem today, got plenty of room now.
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Post by 190mech on Aug 18, 2023 16:25:01 GMT -5
Heck yeah! Super work,might even have room for a 250 cylinder soon!!
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Post by oldgeek on Aug 19, 2023 19:39:49 GMT -5
In between service calls today, I "opened the windows" This set of cases is in pretty sad shape.
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Post by oldgeek on Aug 24, 2023 21:10:16 GMT -5
Chipping away at this daily. Boost port is opened up now. Cylinder stud holes deepened by about 10mm to help keep them from pulling out. Three of the carter screw holes drilled all the way through the big case half, then hole re tapped. Will be using M6 all thread for those three holes. Cleaned up the cases a bit, ran a tap through all CVT cover bolt holes. Had a hell of a time getting 2 broken screws out but they are out now.
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Post by oldgeek on Aug 25, 2023 20:27:44 GMT -5
Surprisingly no service calls today so I spent the whole day at the shop. I needed to change the motor mount and shock bushings and I got tired of looking for the right combination of sockets and washers so I fired up the lathe to make a tool set to get the job done. That took half of the day and I spent the rest of the day pulling a couple bearings from the gear box, gathering up the new bearings and cleaning a set of gears up. I cant seem to find seals for the gearbox so I guess I will have to order them.
I will be needing a carb for this motor. I guess I could use a PWK style 28mm I have on hand rather than buying something new. I dont really like the PWKs but what else is there as you go larger? Is the 28mm even enough?
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Post by 190mech on Aug 26, 2023 3:56:14 GMT -5
I think the 28mm will be a great start, after you get it tuned you will know if it needs more.. What kind of pipe are you planning to run on it?
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Post by oldgeek on Aug 26, 2023 6:41:10 GMT -5
I think the 28mm will be a great start, after you get it tuned you will know if it needs more.. What kind of pipe are you planning to run on it? That question opens the door to many other questions Lol If I put the motor on the custom scoot, I would have to finish building the custom scoot first and it would require a fully custom exhaust. Plan B: I could put the motor on my original naked Kymco. It would require adding a radiator setup but that should not be much trouble. Doing so would allow me to use the two pipes I already have, which are the Piece of a Piece Pipe you helped fab and the TWH pipe that is supposed to be for 120cc. The PoaPP needs some repairs but I think I will try it out first unless you think that is a not so good idea.
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 26, 2023 6:47:29 GMT -5
It's a good thing you ponder about carb size here and not anywhere else on the internet or you'd have a 40mm PWK in your shopping cart. 😁
I think 28mm will be fine. Like John said, if not you can swap it later. Pretty much everyone in the 2T world loves PWKs... or the big bucks carbs. SmartCarb is the latest/greatest.
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Post by oldgeek on Aug 28, 2023 17:08:28 GMT -5
Time to fill up some case volume with epoxy. I tried something different this time, instead of using foil tape I turned a little plug on the lathe. I made it in two pieces in the event it was hard to remove after the epxoy set, used a very light coat of grease to keep the JB weld from sticking to it. Worked like a charm the second time around. The first time I had a real hard time trying to get the epoxy where I wanted it and accidentally pushed the plug out. Cleaned it up and tried again using a very large syringe to place the epoxy where I wanted it. The 6mm stainless all thread and flanged nuts I ordered for the carters arrived and I cut it to size for a test fit, looks like it will work fine. It is amazing how much casting sand I cleaned from the transfer ports alone. The quality on this cylinder is really sad.
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Post by oldgeek on Aug 29, 2023 18:10:37 GMT -5
I had a little time this afternoon so I prepped the crank and bearings for assembly. I used the tusk puller to push the crank bearings onto the crank, pushing only on the inner race. I then used the hot/cold method to install the crank into the small half of the case. I am going to try something new to mate the crank and small half of the case to the large half. I am going to use 2 feeler gauges to take up the small space between the crank and bearing to prevent damage to the bearing while the crank is being pulled in. The feeler gauges in combination with the crank wheel will provide an anvil of sorts to the outer race of the bearing while it is being pulled into the case, the inner race should be isolated with no pressure being put on it. I will try to take a video or at least pictures of the process.
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Post by oldgeek on Aug 31, 2023 17:12:14 GMT -5
Video of crank install did not come out to good. I snapped a few pictures to help explain what I did. First up shows two .53mm feeler gauges between the crank bearing outer race and the crank wheel. Second picture shows the crank ready to be pulled into the cases. The long studs are to help with alignment of everything and will be removed after the crank is pulled in. The Tusk crank puller is installed on the variator side of the crank, just out of view. Final picture shows the crank fully installed. I just pulled the feeler gauges out. I did have to give the crank ends a tap with a hammer to free it up properly. I usually have to do that anyway no matter what method I use to install the crank. I just use a small scrap of composite decking to protect the end of the crank as I give it a light whack or two. It freed up nicely.
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Post by 190mech on Aug 31, 2023 17:32:08 GMT -5
YEAH! Just love it when a plan goes together well!!
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Post by oldgeek on Sept 2, 2023 19:58:33 GMT -5
Having a bit of trouble finalizing cylinder install and squish. I finally realized the bore is 54mm the piston is 53.75mm and the recess in the head is only 53mm I would like to set squish up < .8 so I decided to try and rework the head a bit. I made a fixture to hold the head on the lathe, it was pretty easy due to the design of the head. I got it mounted and indexed fairly well but I have not done any cutting yet. I need to find out how to re cut the squish band cause I never have cut a taper on the lathe. I also plan to set up the grinder holder on the lathe to hog out the combustion chamber in the head cause there is no way it is large enough. That will probably lead to calculating compression to determine where its at. I also checked fit and adjusted the intake, rounded up the reed block, carb and filter setup. Its all in a box now where I can easily find it. Lol
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