oldskool
Scoot Junior
125cc WC Dio/ZX50 Kit is here :) Now Honda or Kymco ??
Posts: 6 
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Post by oldskool on Oct 9, 2023 14:06:37 GMT -5
oldgeek , Is there a way to putty or stuff it then remove it to form a mold or measure. I could then 3d print your piece or pieces with little effort. Not sure what type of gel or modle putty with a release agent to use.
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Post by oldgeek on Oct 9, 2023 18:58:57 GMT -5
I made a divider from some aluminum and wedged it in there, not perfect but not much I do is. Without changing anything I set off for the house to eat dinner. It has definitely changed things, the carb will need a complete retune. I am not sure if it stayed in place but after I got back to the warehouse I pulled the filter off and the divider was in the bottom of the filter. I think I am going to try and tack weld it in place at the mouth with the TIG.  I noticed this on the CVT cover when I was pulling the filter off.  I guess I am lucky to have made it back to the shop.  oldgeek , Is there a way to putty or stuff it then remove it to form a mold or measure. I could then 3d print your piece or pieces with little effort. Not sure what type of gel or modle putty with a release agent to use. \ Sounds possible, it was definitely a PITA making one using a paper pattern. Test fit, sand, repeat. |
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Post by Lucass2T on Oct 10, 2023 0:34:45 GMT -5
I made a divider from some aluminum and wedged it in there, not perfect but not much I do is. Without changing anything I set off for the house to eat dinner. It has definitely changed things, the carb will need a complete retune. I am not sure if it stayed in place but after I got back to the warehouse I pulled the filter off and the divider was in the bottom of the filter. I think I am going to try and tack weld it in place at the mouth with the TIG. I noticed this on the CVT cover when I was pulling the filter off. I guess I am lucky to have made it back to the shop. oldgeek , Is there a way to putty or stuff it then remove it to form a mold or measure. I could then 3d print your piece or pieces with little effort. Not sure what type of gel or modle putty with a release agent to use. \ Sounds possible, it was definitely a PITA making one using a paper pattern. Test fit, sand, repeat. You could drill a small hole through the trumpet into the divider and place a small dowel pin. That belt looks it has maybe 1 mile left on it ha! |
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Post by aeroxbud on Oct 10, 2023 3:18:08 GMT -5
Are you trying to beat the record Brent set, for going through belts?  |
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Post by oldgeek on Oct 10, 2023 19:06:48 GMT -5
Are you trying to beat the record Brent set, for going through belts? I dont think there is any danger of that! The belt previously lived on the 103cc setup, it had already had a hard life before I put it on the 120cc. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 12, 2023 6:19:43 GMT -5
I was looking up the carb splitter/venturi dividers; thinking that the "bolt-on" was probably like $25 since there's not much to them. I was a little off. On the page below, ₤125 + ₤5 shipping to total ₤130. At the current exchange rate, that's $159.84. You can get a whole big PWK for less. It's so bad that I honestly wasn't sure if it was a joke. www.performancefab.co.uk/new-page-17 Here's one in the US for $99-$225. thunderproducts.com/product/quad-flow-torque-wing/ Pretty wild. |
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Post by oldgeek on Oct 12, 2023 6:50:47 GMT -5
Looks like the "quad-flow-torque-wing" is used on the motor side of the carb. I will order one as soon as I get my new Torque bands installed LOL |
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Post by Lucass2T on Oct 12, 2023 9:43:29 GMT -5
I was looking up the carb splitter/venturi dividers; thinking that the "bolt-on" was probably like $25 since there's not much to them. I was a little off. On the page below, ₤125 + ₤5 shipping to total ₤130. At the current exchange rate, that's $159.84. You can get a whole big PWK for less. It's so bad that I honestly wasn't sure if it was a joke. www.performancefab.co.uk/new-page-17Here's one in the US for $99-$225. thunderproducts.com/product/quad-flow-torque-wing/Pretty wild. And it's glued together... Yeah not sure who they think they are fooling. Design one in Sketch-Up and have a 3d printing office have a bunch of them made. Sell the rest online. |
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Post by oldgeek on Oct 13, 2023 17:02:37 GMT -5
I tried to tack weld the divider in place today, that was a fail. I dont really feel like a complete carb retune anyway. I will likely live with it the way it is until I get tired of it!
In other news the new belt came and I am lucky I ordered a new plug cap along with the belt. Turns out the seat bucket is hitting the plug cap when the suspension bottoms out. The new cap is a Malossi rubber type so maybe it will work out better. I put the new Malossi 611153 belt on and had to use 1.6 mm of shims to get it to free up even a little.
I also switched over from sliders to rollers because the ramp plate was digging into the top of the sliders at full travel, weird but I have seen that before. I took a quick run or 2 down the side street. I am peaking at 10900 RPM's so I need a little heavier rollers, there are currently 40.53g total weight now.
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Post by oldgeek on Oct 14, 2023 12:25:32 GMT -5
Words cannot describe just how loud this scoot is when the pipe falls off! 1/2 block from the road I live on the mount broke and the pipe slipped off at the flange, no warnings. I was passing through a 3 way intersection when it happened and I thought someone was blowing a train horn in my ear it was actually painful. How the pipe did not fall completely off or at least drag I have no clue. I did the walk of shame the short distance home. The pipe was mounted stress free, so I guess sheer weight and krap metal.  |
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Post by oldgeek on Oct 15, 2023 16:33:06 GMT -5
I went ahead and ordered the 120cc V8 pipe with the 32mm flange from Scootertuning $175 USD shipped. Maybe it will have some low end grunt instead of all top end like the current pipe.
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Post by oldgeek on Oct 20, 2023 19:34:07 GMT -5
The V8 pipe with the 32mm flange arrived yesterday, Ill get it fit up sometime this weekend.
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Post by repherence2 on Oct 21, 2023 1:19:00 GMT -5
Never heard of a contour gauge before. Looked it up. Now I've found another tool that I suddenly need. lol repherence2 : One thing that I never saw you answer is, how is it attached? I've seen some that appear to be epoxied in. Some that look like they notched the carb mouth and made the divider wide enough to fit the notches there. Others were a whole bell mouth design. Your pics kinda look like they're just sitting in there, but I'd think they could at least rotate that way.
my bad Boss, i haven't logged in for a while.
the first divider i made, i used GOOP/ShoeGoo to stick it on. the lead edge of the plate protruded past the carb mouth face about 1.5mm, it was not flush with the carb mouth face plane. at that time, i also ran the Tea Strainer Mesh as a filter, it functioned as a retaining element as well.
i also tried some Permatex. i had some Permatex from work that we used on a reduction gear casing. i figured that if it could hold up to Lube Oil, it would have a chance of working. it worked for a while but over time the adheasive/sealant failed. could have been due to vibration and not cleaning the metal good enough (degreasing) prior to using the permatex.
my final version, i looked at the Rich's Taylor'd Porting site, and to me it looked like they had a groove for the plate to "seat" into. so i marked the half-way point of the carb mouth contour and scribed it. then i ran a coping saw blade through the carb mouth, and used the coping saw to cut the groove.
people need to understand that i had a cheap OKO PWK to do research and development. they are cheap carbs, so i did not have any apprehensions of messing it up. i had a back up OKO anyway. so i went for it.
so as far as glue or adhesive, i would not know really what to use. but i have found that running the mesh as a sort of retaining element, combined with the grooves on the contour for the plate to "seat" into, it combines to keep the plate in place.
i ran the mesh as F.O.D. protector. we have Basalt Blue Rock here in hawaii. this rock is much harder than rocks on the Continents. our roads is paved with blue rock. ingesting small particles of blue rock through a wide open PWK carb can be detrimental to the guts of the engine.
bottom line, like you mentioned, the key to Ensure it does not have a chance to rotate. once it rotates, it does not function as well.
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Post by repherence2 on Oct 21, 2023 1:29:51 GMT -5
I was looking up the carb splitter/venturi dividers; thinking that the "bolt-on" was probably like $25 since there's not much to them. I was a little off. On the page below, ₤125 + ₤5 shipping to total ₤130. At the current exchange rate, that's $159.84. You can get a whole big PWK for less. It's so bad that I honestly wasn't sure if it was a joke.
yep, that's why i made my own while i was killing time at work. i basically made it our of a "scrap" metal from a used pipe flange cleanliness blank.
pure thought, labor, and tinkering to finally get mine to fit. but when working with aluminum, using files and coarse sandpapers make Fitting easier.
just like you, i was not about to spend that kind of money on a Venturi.
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Post by repherence2 on Oct 21, 2023 1:52:00 GMT -5
I made a divider from some aluminum and wedged it in there, not perfect but not much I do is. Without changing anything I set off for the house to eat dinner. It has definitely changed things, the carb will need a complete retune. I am not sure if it stayed in place but after I got back to the warehouse I pulled the filter off and the divider was in the bottom of the filter. I think I am going to try and tack weld it in place at the mouth with the TIG.
my first plate was just like yours.
same like how yours protrudes past the carb mouth. i rounded over the ends, and then i intalled the tea strainer mesh over the mouth. i used a snug hose clamp to draw tension on the screen as i pushed the clamp on the the carb rim. then i tightened up the hose clamp.
when i first did it, i was running a Polini bell mouth. the bell mouth fitment with the mesh was tight and it tensioned the mesh, like how a percussion drum is tensioned. when the plate protrudes, and you tension the mesh over the face, the mesh applies pressure/force to keep the plate pressed up and seated in the carb mouth. cutting grooves and seating the plate in the groove makes it more secure and firm.
what you made/fabricated was on point!
did you damage the carb mouth by trying to weld the plate to it?
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