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Post by oldgeek on Nov 5, 2023 19:39:12 GMT -5
I fit the big Polini air filter the other night, oiled it and did a couple test runs this evening. It seems to be very free flowing but not sturdy at all. It would likely be OK in some kind of protected area, but not out flapping in the breeze like I have it. Ill likely look back there someday soon and it will be gone. I also changed the well worn Michelin Power Pure SC rear tire the other evening, I got tired of having to put air in it every time I went for a ride. I fit a 130/70-12 Pirelli Diablo I have had on the shelf for a couple years. It was the usual PITA but it is done, balanced and all. I like it so far and it's a tad smaller in diameter and width than the Michelin was so I have some added clearance which was needed.  |
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 6, 2023 21:17:53 GMT -5
I took a decent ride on this setup today. I may need to go up on the pilot jet a point or two, there is still the occasional slight lean spot just off idle but overall the current tune is pretty good. Going past 3/4 throttle seems to do nothing performance wise but it gets considerably louder, it is actually funny the sound it makes. Top speed is about 61 at 10K, I am pretty sure this V8 pipe is holding it back. 10K is like hitting a wall, it will instantly rev there and stay but that's all. I was a bit faster with the other pipe, and could likely be a lot faster with the correct pipe but for now it is lots of fun the way it is. Currently it pulls the wheel up from a 15mph roll, I have to be careful in turns with the twitchy throttle. Pulling the wheel up in a turn is too exciting for me LOL
I may soon end this PWK trial and try a Dell PHBG 21mm, I bet it would go very well with this pipe, and be even more rideable.
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 9, 2023 21:39:12 GMT -5
Well, it lasted a while.   |
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 11, 2023 16:43:41 GMT -5
Cold and steady rain today. Since I am waiting on new belts to arrive I changed the gear oil and cut some vents in a spare CVT cover using a holding jig and the mill. I might even paint it.  |
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 11, 2023 21:56:46 GMT -5
I took a much closer look at the HPI mini rotor Iggy I picked up from the land of Treats. Everything looks like it would work with the exception of the flywheel, the taper is too big and simply the wrong one for this application.
Treatland said to send it back for a refund but I would rather get it working than send it back. The iggy kit # 210K015 that I received includes the 210R031 flywheel. The flywheel is not marked with a part# but measurement specs from the HPI site confirm it is a 210R031 flywheel. The kit Treatland sent me is the kit HPI specifies for the Kymco ZX, Honda Elite, Dio and a few other scoots so Treatland is not at fault, but there is no way the 210R031 flywheel will fit any of the scoots I listed. I started looking at measurements for other flywheels HPI has for various other scooters. After setting up the HPI iggy on a spare set of cases with a stock Kymco crank I took some careful measurements. I found that a 210R030 flywheel should fit correctly or be real close.
I Emailed Treatland back and forth a few times and they are going to special order the 210R030 flywheel for me. It cost me another $55 dollars including shipping but I am willing to try it, will be worth it if it works. The new flywheel will not be here for a couple weeks.
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 14, 2023 21:16:50 GMT -5
The new belts arrived yesterday. So today I put one on and took a test run to make sure all was still good, and it was. This thing launches good but it isn't a wheelie popper from the line and I feel like it should be so I decided to do a bit of CVT tuning. I tried a Keli variator with a SEF ramp plate in place of the TFC setup I was using. No change that I could tell. Took out 1mm of the 2.1mm shims in the variator, no change. Decided to change the contra spring from a Malossi white to a Malossi? yellow. That caused RPM's to go up but top speed to go down and launch still about the same. While changing the contra spring I found a pivot screw was very loose in the S6 clutch and 1 clutch shoe was hard to pivot, there was also some damage from the loose screw. I ended up setting up a Polini adj. clutch and installed it. No real change after that. Since my RPM's were up I put heavier rollers in the variator, went from 42g to 48g and loosened up the clutch a bit. That had a noticeable effect on the launch, more power and almost pulling the wheel up. I had to stop testing because it got dark and the headlight burned out at some point.
I have never had a scoot that I felt needed a stronger contra spring until now. Historically I have always used the lightest contra spring possible, usually a stock spring or a soft aftermarket. I am not sure but I think the short belt life may have been the product of some belt slippage so maybe a stronger contra spring will help balance it out?
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 15, 2023 19:55:35 GMT -5
Did a little tuning today, but mostly worked on replacing the torque driver. I discovered the torque driver had been slinging a little grease from somewhere, likely the top seal because it was ending up in the clutch bell. I have never had luck finding decent replacement seals for these things so I used a stock Kymco TD base and a new Malossi straight groove moveable half to replace the TWH TD that was leaking. I noticed two things when I took the TWH TD apart to inspect it. For one the grease had turned to liquid for the most part and two, it had a groove profile on one set of grooves that I have never seen before. It was originally installed just like it came out of the box, using the straight groove, and I never took it apart until today. Straight groove:  Other groove: looks like it would drop into high gear easier using this one? Please comment if you know about this one.  Stock Kymco for comparison:  After getting the TD all squared away I got two tuning runs in before dark. Tried progressively lighter rollers twice and a couple clutch adjustments. It most definitely launches harder and pulls harder in the middle so I think the stiffer contra spring may be here to stay although it did increase CVT heat significantly. RPM's are now maxed at 9,900-10,000 and the waaaaaahh sound from the carb past 3/4 throttle is now gone, I suppose because I am closer to the peak RPM of the pipe? I took a look at the "new" belt and a cord on each side of it is already broken and starting to lose sections. Maybe it would help the launch if I took this ballast out. LOL!  I want to buy a draggy so I can see where I stand.  |
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 15, 2023 21:48:26 GMT -5
FYI: I just noticed Scootertuning.ca has a bunch of the Taida stuff for HONDA/DIO AF16-18 and Kymco ZX in stock. I hope the QC on this batch is better than the last.  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 16, 2023 0:27:58 GMT -5
The straight grooves will prob give you the best acceleration, but you may tame cruise RPM or change high speed operation with the others.
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Post by aeroxbud on Nov 16, 2023 6:31:50 GMT -5
That is strange the way the groves are cut. Usually it starts off at more of an angle. Then changed to give a lower cruise speed. You have to try it now.  |
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 16, 2023 7:03:58 GMT -5
The straight grooves will prob give you the best acceleration, but you may tame cruise RPM or change high speed operation with the others. That is strange the way the groves are cut. Usually it starts off at more of an angle. Then changed to give a lower cruise speed. You have to try it now. I had my thinking about the weird groove backwards I do believe. Because the pulley starts out open in that short portion of the groove, which should actually cause delay coming out of low or 1st gear so to say. Now I will definitely have to give it a try at some point for sure! |
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 16, 2023 7:14:37 GMT -5
I had my thinking about the weird groove backwards I do believe. Because the pulley starts out open in that short portion of the groove, which should actually cause delay coming out of low or 1st gear so to say. Now I will definitely have to give it a try at some point for sure! If your rear pulley is starting out open, you've got big CVT issues. The rear pulley should be closed at launch and open at high speed. The front pulley would start open and then close with speed, pushing the belt outward up front and down into the rear. Trying it is still the best option if you want to know how well it works. If one angle or set of angles worked best for everyone we wouldn't see these user selectable paths. |
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 16, 2023 7:23:19 GMT -5
I had my thinking about the weird groove backwards I do believe. Because the pulley starts out open in that short portion of the groove, which should actually cause delay coming out of low or 1st gear so to say. Now I will definitely have to give it a try at some point for sure! If your rear pulley is starting out open, you've got big CVT issues. The rear pulley should be closed at launch and open at high speed. The front pulley would start open and then close with speed, pushing the belt outward up front and down into the rear. Trying it is still the best option if you want to know how well it works. If one angle or set of angles worked best for everyone we wouldn't see these user selectable paths. Yeah, the more I thought about it the more confused I became.  When I ponder things sometimes looking at a picture puts me in the wrong orientation and I get all effed up. I'll definitely give it a try at some point. I think the TD may have been slinging grease due to the grease turning to liquid. The seals did not look damaged seemed to fit snugly on the hub. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 16, 2023 7:40:42 GMT -5
I think the TD may have been slinging grease due to the grease turning to liquid. The seals did not look damaged seemed to fit snugly on the hub. Sorry if I missed it, but what grease are you using? I had good results with Mobil 1 synthetic grease for years. I tried Malossi's grease long ago and it dried up on me. Then the TMAX service requires Bel Ray Assembly Lube, which is moly type. It's thick and holds up well so I used that in everything for a bit. Of course I liked it so they had to discontinue it. I've used Malossi's newer grease for a while without issue. It's a clear-ish now, where it used to be moly based I think. When I did the Polini Hi-Speed vari they include a grease that is more similar to the moly assembly lube, but that did seem to thin out some. One of those may be worth a try if you continue to have problems. |
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 16, 2023 8:07:53 GMT -5
I think the TD may have been slinging grease due to the grease turning to liquid. The seals did not look damaged seemed to fit snugly on the hub. Sorry if I missed it, but what grease are you using? I had good results with Mobil 1 synthetic grease for years. I tried Malossi's grease long ago and it dried up on me. Then the TMAX service requires Bel Ray Assembly Lube, which is moly type. It's thick and holds up well so I used that in everything for a bit. Of course I liked it so they had to discontinue it. I've used Malossi's newer grease for a while without issue. It's a clear-ish now, where it used to be moly based I think. When I did the Polini Hi-Speed vari they include a grease that is more similar to the moly assembly lube, but that did seem to thin out some. One of those may be worth a try if you continue to have problems. I dont know what grease the aftermarket THW TD shipped with, but it pretty much turned to liquid. I used the new Malosi grease that came with the moveable half conversion kit Malossi makes for the stock Kymco TD to build the replacement TD yesterday. I was going to use some Amsoil grease I use on a lot of stuff to assemble it, but I saw the color of the new Malossi grease and decided to give it a try instead. As you said, the older black malossi grease was no good. |
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When I ponder things sometimes looking at a picture puts me in the wrong orientation and I get all effed up.