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Post by 190mech on Sept 24, 2024 18:50:39 GMT -5
Looking Great!!  |
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Post by 808ministroke on Sept 24, 2024 21:48:06 GMT -5
Looking pretty slick there, groundbreaking as well👍
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Post by aeroxbud on Sept 25, 2024 4:43:03 GMT -5
It's a big step forward. 👍
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 25, 2024 11:06:35 GMT -5
I'm looking forward to seeing how this runs!
The TPR exhaust and Roost exhaust are said to be better than the MHR Big Bore for the cylinder. Mine's definitely very rev happy. I got used to the RC1 and that seems to rev plenty, but getting back on the 86 I realize how it needs the revs even more. Unfortunately I can only tell you what I've heard about those pipes. With the Peace Pipe, I ran 10-11k and it worked pretty well, but picked up a lot by switching to the MHR at 13-14k. If I totally overshot the sweet spot and the TPR 86 does indeed like 12500-13500 better, it may be even more fun with specs for that. That said, I was very impressed when my 86 with a lighter rider ran times similar to what I do on the RC1... so it's not weak. Doesn't seem like you really have to find pipe dimensions just for it, as often John says the good pipes are pretty close to calculated ideals anyway.
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Post by oldgeek on Sept 25, 2024 17:10:53 GMT -5
I'm looking forward to seeing how this runs! The TPR exhaust and Roost exhaust are said to be better than the MHR Big Bore for the cylinder. Mine's definitely very rev happy. I got used to the RC1 and that seems to rev plenty, but getting back on the 86 I realize how it needs the revs even more. Unfortunately I can only tell you what I've heard about those pipes. With the Peace Pipe, I ran 10-11k and it worked pretty well, but picked up a lot by switching to the MHR at 13-14k. If I totally overshot the sweet spot and the TPR 86 does indeed like 12500-13500 better, it may be even more fun with specs for that. That said, I was very impressed when my 86 with a lighter rider ran times similar to what I do on the RC1... so it's not weak. Doesn't seem like you really have to find pipe dimensions just for it, as often John says the good pipes are pretty close to calculated ideals anyway. Thanks for the info, you know by now those questions were coming  I would love to have dimensions for the TPR pipe or similar. A lower rev pipe makes better sense due to my questionable crank. Maybe 190mech could run some numbers for me if he gets a chance. Also what carb should I use? Not going to use a PWK. |
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Post by oldgeek on Sept 25, 2024 18:09:41 GMT -5
I made some progress on both motors today.
I got the crank trued (whew!) for the TPR86 and checked fitment again. I need 1mm thicker spacer between the case halves to allow the crank to spin freely, the spacer already in there is around 1.25mm. I plan on cutting a base spacer for the cylinder from aluminium. There is a small corner at each transfer that is only 2mm wide, the spacer should take care of that problem. I meant to take some pictures of the matchup of the transfers. Believe it or not the transfers in the case are larger than the transfers in the cylinder by about 3-3.5mm I may leave it like it is or I could trim the cylinder to match the cases, but not so sure that is a good idea. Another option I am considering is to epoxy fill the transfers in the cases to match the cylinder.
For the 120cc Vastro motor, I took the gearbox back apart to make it easier to install the crank, and I put some red loctite on the 3 carter studs. Cleaned the case halves and prepped the cases for the crank install which I hope gets done tomorrow.
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 25, 2024 18:10:00 GMT -5
Also what carb should I use? Not going to use a PWK. 25mm DellOrto PHBL (round slide) on mine. 98-102 Main Jet 64 Pilot Jet 60 Starter Jet AQ264 Atomizer 26 Needle, Position 3 40 Throttle Valve |
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Post by oldgeek on Sept 26, 2024 17:24:16 GMT -5
I finished the crank install on the Vastro build, it took all day and included 4 hours spent on truing the crank.  |
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Post by oldgeek on Sept 27, 2024 19:14:59 GMT -5
Anyone have an idea on how to seal this water-jacket cover to the head? I dont understand why they left so little meat around the screw holes and the chamfer they put all around the edges took half of the clamping area away. I guess milling a couple millimeters off of the top would help, I would rather not have to do that.   |
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 27, 2024 19:33:12 GMT -5
Some tough rubbery gasket material and a skim coat perhaps. Most gasket material I've used would worry me with such thin spots. Or just see what happens with sealant if it's nice and flat. As big as that thing is, they couldn't go a couple mm extra?
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Post by oldgeek on Sept 27, 2024 22:19:42 GMT -5
Some tough rubbery gasket material and a skim coat perhaps. Most gasket material I've used would worry me with such thin spots. Or just see what happens with sealant if it's nice and flat. As big as that thing is, they couldn't go a couple mm extra? Tough rubbery sounds good. I just ordered some 1/16" silicone from the Amazon. Instead of cutting it completely out I will just cut the holes, undersized a bit to help seal around the screws and studs. I am not going to cut the inner white area out. (Edit) Maybe I should have gone with EPDM, that silicone will be under some serious clamping pressure. (Edit) Scratch that, oil attacks EPDM. No shortage of oil around a 2 stroke.  |
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Post by 190mech on Sept 28, 2024 4:12:10 GMT -5
I think the silicone sheet will extrude under the clamping force. We have silicone aftermarket rocker arm covers in aircraft and they must be installed totally dry and lightly torqued.Also the head gasket seal will be less due to the soft sheet.. Maybe Ultra Grey or Ultra Black only?
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Post by oldgeek on Sept 28, 2024 6:48:30 GMT -5
I think the silicone sheet will extrude under the clamping force. We have silicone aftermarket rocker arm covers in aircraft and they must be installed totally dry and lightly torqued.Also the head gasket seal will be less due to the soft sheet.. Maybe Ultra Grey or Ultra Black only? Yeah, that's what I was worried about with the silicone. I just dont see this thing sealing reliably as is. I would like to mill the top of the head down enough to remove the chamfer. What type of mill head would work best? The head is just under 4" so I need something that can do it in one pass? I dont know, never done much milling. This Fly cutter?Or some other type? Face milling cutter |
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Timmer
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 128
Location: Mechelen, Belgium
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Post by Timmer on Sept 28, 2024 12:59:03 GMT -5
I’d probably trace where the gasket would be or make a topdown pic with a ruler next to it for size reference ,recreate that in fusion360 (or whatever CAD you use) and print that in TPU, probably somewhere along the lines of 0.24mm thickness (3 layers of 0.08 layerheight). That is, if you have access to a 3d printer , or maybe someone you know or is local can do it for you? Hpeck, you could even color match it probably  |
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Post by oldgeek on Sept 28, 2024 18:45:47 GMT -5
I’d probably trace where the gasket would be or make a topdown pic with a ruler next to it for size reference ,recreate that in fusion360 (or whatever CAD you use) and print that in TPU, probably somewhere along the lines of 0.24mm thickness (3 layers of 0.08 layerheight). That is, if you have access to a 3d printer , or maybe someone you know or is local can do it for you? Hpeck, you could even color match it probably Best Idea yet! I had been thinking of using cad and 3D printer with laser for making gaskets. However just 3D printing a gasket sounds good. The gasket I need should be fairly easy to replicate in cad. Is there a brand or color of TPU that is best to use? |
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I would love to have dimensions for the TPR pipe or similar. A lower rev pipe makes better sense due to my questionable crank. Maybe 
