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Post by oldgeek on Oct 27, 2018 17:11:55 GMT -5
I decided to seal the cases up and install the crank using the Loctite 603 retaining compound. That all went fairly well but it took some time. Since I will be using a different piston, and adding a base gasket to the mix I wanted to check duration again. I torqued the cylinder down and got 193 for the exhaust and about 131.5 for the transfers. I then added the head without a gasket to check squish, which ended up at 1.12 to 1.17 depending where you check. Previously I have already shaved the head all I could to tighten the squish up. The only thing I can do to tighten it up any further is to shave a bit from the cylinder deck itself. I think I could do the cylinder on the big grinder wheel just like I did the head, it will just take longer. The real question is do I need to? I know in general you should run the squish as tight as you can get away with. But I dont know. I am going to work on installing the intake while people who actually know what they are doing think about where the squish would best be for this build. LoL!
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Post by 190mech on Oct 27, 2018 17:40:09 GMT -5
Would love to see the transfer duration 130 or below,,Decking the barrel is good,a tight squish band will suppress detonation as it keeps combustion from the piston edge,thus the burn is in the combustion chamber alone..A longer skirted piston of proper size would get you back to the original plan,,50mm bore,XXmm pin size,pin C/L to top edge of piston,top edge to bottom of skirt,,Get me these #'s and I'll see if there is a better piston for your build..
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Post by oldgeek on Oct 27, 2018 18:01:22 GMT -5
Would love to see the transfer duration 130 or below,,Decking the barrel is good,a tight squish band will suppress detonation as it keeps combustion from the piston edge,thus the burn is in the combustion chamber alone..A longer skirted piston of proper size would get you back to the original plan,,50mm bore,XXmm pin size,pin C/L to top edge of piston,top edge to bottom of skirt,,Get me these #'s and I'll see if there is a better piston for your build.. Measurements are: bore 50mm pin 12mm center of pin to top edge 25mm top edge to bottom of skirt 52.5mm I think if I leave the base gasket out, it will still work. At TDC I can see light just barely beginning to shine past the edge of the skirt. I don't think it ever really opens. I will try to take a picture
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Post by ryan_ott on Oct 27, 2018 18:01:47 GMT -5
It’s amazing that “kits” require so much work to make them work properly and to their full potential. Keep at it it’ll be work it in the end.
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Post by oldgeek on Oct 27, 2018 18:33:02 GMT -5
It’s amazing that “kits” require so much work to make them work properly and to their full potential. Keep at it it’ll be work it in the end. I Imagine if I were to just slap it on it would have worked? But like you say not to is full potential. 2T's are so damm temperamental! 190mech This is how it looks looking through the ex port, no gasket and cylinder is snugged up. I think it will work, probably going to try it out like it is.
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Post by 190mech on Oct 28, 2018 4:23:21 GMT -5
Yeah,it should run fine like that,would like a few more mm's though...
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Post by oldgeek on Oct 28, 2018 18:40:16 GMT -5
Yeah,it should run fine like that,would like a few more mm's though... Me too for sure! I took a long scoot ride today, so all I got done on the build is the cylinder, piston and head installed, torqued and sealed. Squish is between .67 and .76 depending where you check.
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Post by 190mech on Oct 28, 2018 19:07:30 GMT -5
I spent the last few hours combing the planet for a better piston,,none could be found!!!
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Post by oldgeek on Oct 28, 2018 20:24:20 GMT -5
Damm your scoot must be fast if you can comb the planet in just a few hours! Thanks for the effort!
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Post by 190mech on Oct 29, 2018 5:38:24 GMT -5
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Post by Lucass2T on Oct 30, 2018 5:31:55 GMT -5
You also tried ProX and mahle?
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Post by 190mech on Oct 30, 2018 6:38:52 GMT -5
I got ProX,Wossner,Wiseco,will get Mahle too.Its hard to find actual piston dimensions and some companies use different points to measure them,,all adds to the confusion when piston hunting...
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Post by vlatx on Nov 1, 2018 16:26:31 GMT -5
You can machine the head to enter inside the cilinder for beeter sqush,and put a O ring groove for sealing too.
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 1, 2018 16:47:48 GMT -5
You can machine the head to enter inside the cilinder for beeter sqush,and put a O ring groove for sealing too. I am not sure if 190mech can do this type of head. The spark plug comes in at an angle. He has step cut several like you have pictured. Anyways, it does not appear to be needed since squish is now between .67 and .76 depending where you check.
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 4, 2018 21:50:57 GMT -5
Been very busy with non scooter stuff lately, but over the weekend I was able to make a gasket for the gear box and get it assembled. I also installed the seals for the crank and the primary shaft on the gear box. Filled gearbox with 120ml of Amsoil synthetic gear oil. Now to dig up some more parts and prep them as needed. I need a stator, rotor, CVT parts and CVT cover, a starter, rear wheel and tire. I still need to work out something for the shrouds and a mounting bracket for the pipe.
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