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Post by lilpinny on Nov 26, 2018 17:20:56 GMT -5
I'm not sure how much of a "build" this will be. Unlike my ruck, where I replaced almost every single part on the thing, this project is just to get this bike back running well. Once that's done I'll look at some chrome and cool stuff like that.  That's me bringing the bike home last Sunday. This was a craigslist find that was about an hour a way from. Cool dude was selling it, it was a good price, but it's got some problems (which is why it was a good price). I've battled a GY6 before and that was rough, so I figured I could take on the Vespa. It has what I know now is an easy problem (I think) to diagnose but a difficult problem to hunt down. Again, my experience is with the 4-strokes, so this might be different. It'll start up with the choke on and run. When you turn the choke off, it dies. In the GY6 4 stroke world this is a common symptom of an air leak, usually in the intake somewhere. It's getting extra air and when you run it rich (with the choke on) it makes up for the extra air. Run it normal and there is too much air and it dies. So this is the problem until I've proven to myself it isn't an air leak. What I like about this Vespa is it has a neutral gear and a center stand, something that on the ruck you remove (the center stand) or never had (a neutral). That'll make testing it easier cause it can stay on the lift while I run it. I'll get it up on the lift just as soon as I clean out my garage from the last built then get to inspecting the intake. Hopefully it'll just jump right out with a misting of brake cleaner. If that doesn't work I'll figure out a way to put air in the engine and spray it down with soapy water to see if I can get a bubble. It is a 2005, with only 3k miles on it. So I shouldn't have to go into the engine. It should be good. It's not like it's a 60's Vespa. It did sit for a while, so maybe something dried up and cracked and it's letting air in. Dunno. I do know that some of my leak hunting tricks won't work on a two stroke, so I'll have to re-engineer those processes. Day 1 starts now! |
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Post by 190mech on Nov 26, 2018 18:06:16 GMT -5
From your description it sounds like the carb needs a good cleaning(pilot jet cruddy)..Sharp looking ride!!
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Post by fugaziiv on Nov 26, 2018 18:21:16 GMT -5
Just clean the carb for starters. You're going to be amazed at how resilient these things are. Piaggio designed them as a daily utility bike, and if you take care of a PX, it will be the best bike you've ever owned. They literally perfected scooters in '78.
However, if you want to, you can throw enough money at that thing to make your custom ruck cry tears of jealousy.
Also, let us know how you like a 20/20 carb after playing with GY6's. It's a bit... different.
Welcome to the shifty/smokey club. It's my personal favorite. If you want any help, I'm glad to provide insight.
Matt
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Post by lilpinny on Nov 26, 2018 19:45:19 GMT -5
The first thing I'm going to do when I get it up on the lift is take a look at the carb. I'll give it a clean and inspect for anything that looks like it could air leak... Get to know the carb a little bit. On my GY6 I have a 28mm PWK clone (OKO) and that works pretty well. I've never had a problem with it. I've only seen the guts of a 20/20 on youtube. It's, as you say, different. I can use all the advice I can get! I appreciate it. This bike is going to be a daily rider so I'm going to keep it mechanically stock as possible. The prev owner did put on an unrestricted pipe and jetted to fit the pipe (which is stuff I'd do too, honestly) but that's it. I'm not doing anything more. It's gotta run, but those chrome kits (bumpers, cowl protectors, etc) look pretty neat  . That's putting the cart before the horse tho. I've kinda learned about reliability after taking a totally reliable stock honda ruck and turning it into a custom GY6 monster. Reliability (and comfort) on long rides kinda goes out the window (but it looks so f'n cool).. So cosmetics, they aren't ruled out. |
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Post by ryan_ott on Nov 26, 2018 20:00:46 GMT -5
Just like the others mentioned I’d clean the carb first. Very nice ride, I can’t touch that for less then 2-3 times what you paid around here.
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 26, 2018 20:06:39 GMT -5
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Post by lilpinny on Nov 26, 2018 20:23:49 GMT -5
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 26, 2018 20:28:19 GMT -5
Allow me to welcome you to the dark side!  |
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Post by ryan_ott on Nov 26, 2018 20:33:10 GMT -5
Soon your ruck will feel neglected, sitting in the corner collecting dust. Jealous of that smoke trail the Vespa is leaving behind like a swarm of angry bees heading off into the distance.
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Post by lilpinny on Nov 26, 2018 21:20:01 GMT -5
We will see. The 170cc Ruck is a whole different trip than this Vespa. And man did I put in the hours on that Ruck. Pretty sure it's not going to be left in the dust. I can almost guarantee that I get more looks on that Ruck than the Vespa.
That being said I'm really stoked on the Vespa. It's loud, and it stinks. I come out of the garage smelling like gas. That I like. More fun for me, not others looking.
Two bikes, two whole different things. I mean I look at the front fender on the PX and that's some design. The Ruck is all chopped up. Totally different.
I'm gonna get this thing running. I'm stoked. Glad to join the club. But I'll always be a Honda freak first.
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Post by fugaziiv on Nov 27, 2018 9:14:51 GMT -5
Soon your ruck will feel neglected, sitting in the corner collecting dust. Jealous of that smoke trail the Vespa is leaving behind like a swarm of angry bees heading off into the distance. This is the truest thing posted that I've read in a long time. Matt |
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Post by fugaziiv on Nov 27, 2018 9:29:24 GMT -5
The first thing I'm going to do when I get it up on the lift is take a look at the carb. I'll give it a clean and inspect for anything that looks like it could air leak... Get to know the carb a little bit. On my GY6 I have a 28mm PWK clone (OKO) and that works pretty well. I've never had a problem with it. I've only seen the guts of a 20/20 on youtube. It's, as you say, different. I can use all the advice I can get! I appreciate it. This bike is going to be a daily rider so I'm going to keep it mechanically stock as possible. The prev owner did put on an unrestricted pipe and jetted to fit the pipe (which is stuff I'd do too, honestly) but that's it. I'm not doing anything more. It's gotta run, but those chrome kits (bumpers, cowl protectors, etc) look pretty neat . That's putting the cart before the horse tho. I've kinda learned about reliability after taking a totally reliable stock honda ruck and turning it into a custom GY6 monster. Reliability (and comfort) on long rides kinda goes out the window (but it looks so f'n cool).. So cosmetics, they aren't ruled out. A pipe and a jet is basically improved stock, and that's a great place to be with it. The reality is that going big bore on a PX is the opposite of going big bore on a GY6. I'll explain. We all buy GY6s as 150s, which is actually 25cc's larger than the engine was ever designed to be. the engine architecture was built as a 125. So when we take a 150 GY6 and bore it up to 170/180 or whatever have you, you're actually sacrificing reliability even further. PX150 is actually a sleeved down 200. Wanna make it a 170? Go for it. If you do it right (because as you know, you can jack anything up by doing it wrong), you'll have a bike that's every bit as reliable as stock. My PX150 is a built 177, and at least from an engine standpoint, I'd ride that thing across the country. It'll cruise all day long at 70, no worries. Now, I've got other issues I'm working on, but the engine? That's good. What you'll find is the vast majority of modifications for the Vespa market exist to improve rideability, not just for aesthetics... so it's pretty much opposite from the Ruck. Now, a safety recommendation. Get some tubeless wheels for that thing. And I don't mean the cheapo steel tubeless jobbers. Spring for the split Aluminum Pinasco wheels (We don't even sell them, but they are what I use. they're that good.) and some good tubeless tires. It changes that bike and makes it much safer to ride daily, particularly in the event of a flat. Matt P.S. Don't be so confident on the more looks on the Ruck than the Vespa thing. Just wait. People LOVE a Vepsa, they can't help it. |
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Post by lilpinny on Nov 27, 2018 13:57:35 GMT -5
The first thing I'm going to do when I get it up on the lift is take a look at the carb. I'll give it a clean and inspect for anything that looks like it could air leak... Get to know the carb a little bit. On my GY6 I have a 28mm PWK clone (OKO) and that works pretty well. I've never had a problem with it. I've only seen the guts of a 20/20 on youtube. It's, as you say, different. I can use all the advice I can get! I appreciate it. This bike is going to be a daily rider so I'm going to keep it mechanically stock as possible. The prev owner did put on an unrestricted pipe and jetted to fit the pipe (which is stuff I'd do too, honestly) but that's it. I'm not doing anything more. It's gotta run, but those chrome kits (bumpers, cowl protectors, etc) look pretty neat . That's putting the cart before the horse tho. I've kinda learned about reliability after taking a totally reliable stock honda ruck and turning it into a custom GY6 monster. Reliability (and comfort) on long rides kinda goes out the window (but it looks so f'n cool).. So cosmetics, they aren't ruled out. A pipe and a jet is basically improved stock, and that's a great place to be with it. The reality is that going big bore on a PX is the opposite of going big bore on a GY6. I'll explain. We all buy GY6s as 150s, which is actually 25cc's larger than the engine was ever designed to be. the engine architecture was built as a 125. So when we take a 150 GY6 and bore it up to 170/180 or whatever have you, you're actually sacrificing reliability even further. PX150 is actually a sleeved down 200. Wanna make it a 170? Go for it. If you do it right (because as you know, you can jack anything up by doing it wrong), you'll have a bike that's every bit as reliable as stock. My PX150 is a built 177, and at least from an engine standpoint, I'd ride that thing across the country. It'll cruise all day long at 70, no worries. Now, I've got other issues I'm working on, but the engine? That's good. What you'll find is the vast majority of modifications for the Vespa market exist to improve rideability, not just for aesthetics... so it's pretty much opposite from the Ruck. Now, a safety recommendation. Get some tubeless wheels for that thing. And I don't mean the cheapo steel tubeless jobbers. Spring for the split Aluminum Pinasco wheels (We don't even sell them, but they are what I use. they're that good.) and some good tubeless tires. It changes that bike and makes it much safer to ride daily, particularly in the event of a flat. Matt P.S. Don't be so confident on the more looks on the Ruck than the Vespa thing. Just wait. People LOVE a Vepsa, they can't help it. Where did you get those rims? I googled around and it seems like there are some places outside the US. The tubeless tires is def the way to go. I haven't worked with tubes in like forever. I need to get a manual for it. Figure out how to put gas in it. I guess just add gas and fill up the oil tank with 2T oil. It'll do the mixing on its own. |
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Post by fugaziiv on Nov 27, 2018 14:34:16 GMT -5
Germany. SIP. You'll end up becoming VERY comfortable with these guys. They are a very good overseas source for classic Vespa stuff, it's really what they specialize in. No one in the US has the breadth of classic product that they do. www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/rim+tubeless+pinasco+for+vespa+_25472000They also have a non split tubeless rim that's quite a bit less, which actually work great if you are using tires with a less stiff bead. I have a pair of these too, and I've run these tires on the quite successfully over the years: www.partsforscooters.com/154-84_Kenda_TireThe Kenda K453 is an excellent sport tire for these bikes, and can be spooned (carefully) on to the SIP brand Aluminum tubeless rim. Here's a link for the SIP rims: www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/rim+tubeless+sip+for+vespa+_81058100The Pinasco wheel however, being a split rim, can run really good rubber like Heideanu. If you try to mount a stiffer carcass tire on the SIP rim, you'll destroy the rim. Ask me how I know.  That bike is set up to mix it's own oil. Just fill up the two tanks with their respective petroleum products, and off you go. The autolube on these bikes are gear driven and shockingly reliable. Here's the oil I use, because it's what Piaggio recommends and is super high quality and smells great, but any good quality 2t oil meant for injection will be fine. www.partsforscooters.com/172-161-Eni-i-Ride-Scooter-2T-Top-Engine-OilAlso, this should be close enough for you. Keep in mind, the P/PX was created in 78, so there will be variances over the years, but it's nothing that you won't be able to figure out. www.manualslib.com/manual/458360/Piaggio-Vespa-Px-150.htmlI personally use the Haynes Vespa manual #0707 (which I used to sell, but no longer do), but can be purchased directly from Haynes. haynes.com/en-us/vespa-ppx-125-150-200-78-12-includes-lml-star-2t-haynes-repair-manualOne other REALLY good thing to keep on hand is a few spare cables. You will eventually break a cable, because the throttle has one, the shifter has two, the clutch has one and so on. I carry one of these, and I've totally used it. www.partsforscooters.com/177-74-Helix-Emergency-Cable-Repair-KitMatt |
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Post by lilpinny on Nov 27, 2018 14:38:17 GMT -5
Germany. SIP. You'll end up becoming VERY comfortable with these guys. They are a very good overseas source for classic Vespa stuff, it's really what they specialize in. No one in the US has the breadth of classic product that they do. www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/rim+tubeless+pinasco+for+vespa+_25472000They also have a non split tubeless rim that's quite a bit less, which actually work great if you are using tires with a less stiff bead. I have a pair of these too, and I've run these tires on the quite successfully over the years: www.partsforscooters.com/154-84_Kenda_TireThe Kenda K453 is an excellent sport tire for these bikes, and can be spooned (carefully) on to the SIP brand Aluminum tubeless rim. Here's a link for the SIP rims: www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/rim+tubeless+sip+for+vespa+_81058100The Pinasco wheel however, being a split rim, can run really good rubber like Heideanu. If you try to mount a stiffer carcass tire on the SIP rim, you'll destroy the rim. Ask me how I know. That bike is set up to mix it's own oil. Just fill up the two tanks with their respective petroleum products, and off you go. The autolube on these bikes are gear driven and shockingly reliable. Here's the oil I use, because it's what Piaggio recommends and is super high quality and smells great, but any good quality 2t oil meant for injection will be fine. www.partsforscooters.com/172-161-Eni-i-Ride-Scooter-2T-Top-Engine-OilAlso, this should be close enough for you. Keep in mind, the P/PX was created in 78, so there will be variances over the years, but it's nothing that you won't be able to figure out. www.manualslib.com/manual/458360/Piaggio-Vespa-Px-150.htmlI personally use the Haynes Vespa manual #0707 (which I used to sell, but no longer do), but can be purchased directly from Haynes. haynes.com/en-us/vespa-ppx-125-150-200-78-12-includes-lml-star-2t-haynes-repair-manualOne other REALLY good thing to keep on hand is a few spare cables. You will eventually break a cable, because the throttle has one, the shifter has two, the clutch has one and so on. I carry one of these, and I've totally used it. www.partsforscooters.com/177-74-Helix-Emergency-Cable-Repair-KitMatt Thanks! man, that's a ton of good info. |
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. That's putting the cart before the horse tho.
