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Post by stancejontland on Aug 12, 2019 16:40:42 GMT -5
It's hard to tell from the picture, but the rubber boot on the carb top should have a thread under it. Pull back the boot. Then wind the nut out. I think i had to cut that off for the cable to reach into the carb slide.
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Post by stancejontland on Aug 12, 2019 22:18:51 GMT -5
I think i may have fiddled with the adjustment on the carb tube thing but i think it just makes it like tighter or it comes out farther and doesnt do anything up at the twist. And also when i try to adjust it for less slack at the handle bar it always pulls it out of the slot on the split part. Maybe ill try messing with it again but think i had it at its sweet spot which unfortunately it gives me a lot of play at the twist
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Post by stancejontland on Aug 13, 2019 20:57:13 GMT -5
I adjusted the handle bar adjuster all the way out and at the carb and only slightly got rid of the slack. Dont know what else i could do other than buy a new tube or the little piece inside that the cable sits in. Not sure what its called.
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Post by repherence2 on Aug 13, 2019 22:59:55 GMT -5
ok i can grab one. i basically had to cut some of the sheathing off and slice the little metal rings around the cable to get enough braided part through the tube. the little arm or tube on my new carb was longer than all the other ones i had. and what i dont understand it how it could be so "tight" on the carb side but not up at the twist. "tight" at the carb side but not at the twist: maybe you need to lubricate the cable tubes. the main, and then the 2 from the splitter. maybe the splitter needs some lube too. check the routing of your cable too, mame sure it doesn't make tight bends. do you remember how much of the cable sheath you removed? 1/8", 1/4", 3/16", 3/8"? however much you cut off of the original sheath, is how much you probably need to replace, probably in the form of a spacer.
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Post by repherence2 on Aug 13, 2019 23:01:48 GMT -5
maybe you need to clean and lube the handle bar underneath the twist grip too.
the only thing that retracts the twist grip is the slide spring in the carb.
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Post by stancejontland on Aug 14, 2019 19:18:58 GMT -5
ill have to pull out the twist part and show you the inside of it. maybe that would help a little bit more.
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Post by geoffh on Aug 15, 2019 15:40:11 GMT -5
If the inner cable is too long you can shorten it at the handle bar end by using a solder less nipple commonly found in cycle construction around the brake area a cycle/hardware store may have a selection.
Geoff
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Post by stancejontland on Aug 20, 2019 21:35:55 GMT -5
so i would just crimp on a new barrel thing at the handle bar? that type of thing.
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Post by jackrides on Aug 21, 2019 12:26:13 GMT -5
Looks fantastic! Thanks for letting us poor colonials know about it.
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Post by geoffh on Aug 21, 2019 14:48:06 GMT -5
Stance I hope aeroxbuds video explains the concept,reality may need some thinking out,take the handle and cable with you to ensure you get the right size and consider drilling the handle to accept 1\4 to 1\2 inch of cable so the nipple has a good grip good luck.
Geoff
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