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Post by ajfetterman on Aug 8, 2019 20:39:34 GMT -5
I have read and searches but still nothing seems to jump out at me.
I have the “performance” cdi, plug and wire. Moved the washer in the carb needle, open element air cleaner and have disconnected the limited wire at the cdi. I have noticed a faster take off but top speed has not changed.
This pig will only hit 22, 30mph going slightly down hill.
I would like to get 45 out of her but at this point would settle for 35. My street is 25 but as soon as you turn it’s 45 for 2 miles until you get to town...not too safe.
It’s a Dazon scoot. Any help or other upgrades suggestions would be appreciated.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Aug 9, 2019 10:37:13 GMT -5
You might want to get access to a tachometer. Does it seem the engine is buzzing like a bee, but you are not moving? Or, does it seem the engine is 'loaded' and just not responding to full throttle? Speaking of, have you checked that your cable(throttle) is adjusted to move the butterfly to full open position? Could need to have the adjustment done after fiddling with removal and install. Have you take a look at the CVT belt? It could be worn so much you are getting a lot of slippage. If the sides of the belt are shiny, and it seems to be loose when the engine is off, it could be worn or stretched(maybe?) so you are creating a lot of heat but not much motion. A slipping belt will get real hot. When you open the throttle from a stop, the engine should propel the scoot with a good push, and slowly the acceleration will slow down as you gain speed. It won't yank the handlebars from your paws, but you should feel it try to move as you diddle the throttle open a few times. If it lags, CVT inspection time. 90GTvert has created a good video on site(linked to youtube) that shows how to inspect for proper fit and action. The performance CDIs are useless. They actually(some anyway) tend to provide too much initial spark advance, and then leave it advanced. Likely you are better with a good factory unit. Plug and wire, I can't comment on. The needle will just affect the fuel:air mixture when the engine is running above middle rpms. Open element air cleaner may cause stumble or even lean mixture. Honestly I don't think it does much but cause problems, but it's your machine. Pull the sparking plug, and examine the ceramic portion in the center of the plug. If tan-brown, it's likel OK, indicating a decent mix. You can read/watch on the net about the 'ring' that forms somewhere down the center electrode, which you can see in the gap between center electrode and the metal of the threaded area. If the 'ring' forms near the tip of the center electrode ceramic, you are likely too rich. Watch the youtube on that for better explanation. tom
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Post by ajfetterman on Aug 9, 2019 15:22:23 GMT -5
Oy, basically undo everything that I have done to gain speed and check the belt. 😆
From a stop the throttle is responsive. After that, it doesn’t sound tached out but more like it’s being prevented from going, if that makes sense. It feels like there is more power to give but it just won’t.
However, from a stop when I throttle it, I do hear a squeal which I attribute to a belt slip but that is the only time I hear it.
I will undo my ‘mods’ and pay attention to the belt.
Thanks you
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Post by ThaiGyro on Aug 11, 2019 7:32:03 GMT -5
There may be many, many answers to your issue. Yes 22 is not great, but your acceleration off the line seems like an indicator. Many of us have stated this thought: Before you do anything, (prevent chasing a ghost) clean EVERYTHING. Your issue is not uncommon. I would start with the easy to clean and inspect. The exhaust port and pipe. A pipe full of two goo might help low end and abruptly go flat.
Start with that and then move to carb tuning. GrumpyUnk said it well regarding performance coils. There are not many good ones, just ones that suck wallets. The rev limiter elimination is all you really need, unless racing.
My rule of thumb...clean, clean, clean. Test. Tune the carb, one adjustment at a time. Test in between. Happy? Tune the CVT, again, one thing at a time. Test after each change. Simple? Yes. Quick? Rarely.
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Post by SMALL CC TEK on Aug 16, 2019 19:22:35 GMT -5
Dazon was decent scooter . Dazon sold bore up kits because they where so slow in 06 ! lol BBK ,Work with the CVT good belt CDI needs some advance
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Post by ajfetterman on Aug 17, 2019 20:59:41 GMT -5
New belt was delivered today. When I get back in town tomorrow I hope to install it to see if that helps.
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Post by ajfetterman on Aug 18, 2019 15:39:56 GMT -5
Can’t seem to bust the variator bolt loose.
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Post by bullybike on Aug 18, 2019 17:32:02 GMT -5
Put some pb blaster on back of nut. Take a big flathead screwdriver and wedge it along one of the variator teeth, with the tip of driver on any suitable edge you can find on case. Put a box wrench on bolt and tap wrench with mallet while holding driver steady. Super ghetto but works Have used a big pair of grips on gear before too in a impactless pinch.
Ps. Put locktite or whatever on bolt before putting back together or it may spin off and shred that new belt.
Also check ur clutch shoes while there. If outside of bell looks burnt, could be disintegrated clutch pads not making good contact with bell, symptoms: poor acceleration and slipping at speed.
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Post by ajfetterman on Sept 6, 2019 16:11:38 GMT -5
Ordered a tool from China last week. Hopefully it will be here before the weather turns too cold.
I tried every trick o could with no luck. Bought the little gear like holder that bolts to the housing.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Sept 7, 2019 13:03:40 GMT -5
You do not need to remove the variator to install a new belt. There are videos on the tube demonstrating a technique that allows replacement without removal. Thread the belt over the variator, and then start it over the edge of the clutch bell. While compressing the torque drive 'walls' of the Vee, feed the belt into the gap. More or less. I used some chunks of wood to hold the torque drive apart while feeding the belt. Once I had it pulled back towards me, I slid blocks in. That allowed me to use both hands at the same time to fiddle with the belt. tom
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Post by ajfetterman on Sept 9, 2019 19:04:12 GMT -5
Well the little gadget showed up today and worked like a charm. Swapped the belt in a few minutes.
Unfortunately the speed has not increased. I don’t know what else it could be. I have tried everything I can google on the subject.
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Post by jbjhillbilly on Sept 9, 2019 21:23:43 GMT -5
Might need to do some CVT tuning.
Do you know what weight rollers you have in the variator now? You may have a really light set in there. Or maybe the variator is gummed up and the rollers can’t get to the end of the ramp.
You might also do the sharpie test on your variator to see how far the belt is riding up.
Someone earlier mentioned the clutch. Take a look in there and see if there’s a lot of glazing on the pads.
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Post by ajfetterman on Sept 10, 2019 18:18:07 GMT -5
Did the sharpie thing. All but the top 1/4” rubbed off.
I will look at the clutch, anything it has is original.
I also have not pulled the exhaust so I will try that too.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Sept 17, 2019 22:22:13 GMT -5
Have you looked to see that the slide is opening all the way? It could be that the throttle cable has stretched or needs adjustment, preventing the engine from developing full power. Check that the throttle is essentially opening all the way. I have rode some machines that just don't have any more power to give. They struggle from the get-go. Give them a slight downhill and they seem to 'find' some power, but that's about it. If you feel 'good pull' from a stop, but then it peters out, and is not slipping, AND is not dragging the engine down to low rpms, may be the throttle is not opening. Couldn't hurt to check, no? tom
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Post by lunatuck on Sept 18, 2019 9:40:29 GMT -5
Did you recently install the air filter? Going from stock air box to pod style filter will require carb tuning. Probably more then you can do with a needle position. I went up a few jet sizes.
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