mikeh
Scoot Member
Posts: 59
Location: Bradenton, FL
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Post by mikeh on Nov 23, 2019 11:51:43 GMT -5
So I took a run at it again today,Its been bugging me, fuel or air, it was starving for something at the higher rpms. Ended up being starved for air. attempted to mod the air box, and when that failed, stuck that cone air filter they like to just give away. totally solved the problem. it was starved for air at higher rpms and load, and that what was causing the power loss and silliness. it gets up quick to 35 mph in the neighborhood, I still haven't taken it out for a long open stretch run but I might do that later.
went ahead and deleted the air box installation, tied the crack case vent to the frame, need to come up with something to kinda catch that flow without restricting it.
pretty sure the few guys who lurk on here have been avoiding me like the plague, i know i tend to over post. thanks alot for the help to all of you who threw out suggestions. alot of knowledge on this board.
all the best.
-Mike
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Nov 24, 2019 11:11:43 GMT -5
Did you do the fuel flow test suggested by jackrides? Fuel should flow from the filter with a full stream, as in the flow is the size of the inner diameter of the fuel line. You described misfire(I think) after climbing up onto a bridge. I assume the engine had to work harder, and likely had its fuel demand at the max. It ALSO had its vacuum in the intake manifold (measured at the elbow fitting) at a minimum due to WOT. The vacuum operated fuel petcock would close... danh-du-dunh-du. (maybe) If you feel it is a fuel flow problem, I'd consider a mechanical petcock. OTOH, you were headed down the other side of the bridge when you felt the interruption. Given that the throttle was closed, or close, or at least at less than WOT, the engine/CVT would be less loaded, and would shift within limits of the mounts. Could it be that there's a wire that stretches or moves when you 'load/unload' the drivetrain? If you had a CDI or pickup wire that was marginal, it could be doing intermittent connections based on how loaded the engine/CVT was in making it move. You ran it to 8k on the center stand... but... it was no loaded with the effort to move you and itself, just the load of turning the rear wheel. Might not hurt to take a look at the things that impact the sparky... CDI wires, the stator wires and the connections on the right side of the frame, where the stator leads connect to the wiring harness. There are two(at least on some) separate wires that are bullet connectors. If they are not connected... you get no spark. tom
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mikeh
Scoot Member
Posts: 59
Location: Bradenton, FL
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Post by mikeh on Nov 24, 2019 11:25:51 GMT -5
Did you do the fuel flow test suggested by jackrides? Fuel should flow from the filter with a full stream, as in the flow is the size of the inner diameter of the fuel line. You described misfire(I think) after climbing up onto a bridge. I assume the engine had to work harder, and likely had its fuel demand at the max. It ALSO had its vacuum in the intake manifold (measured at the elbow fitting) at a minimum due to WOT. The vacuum operated fuel petcock would close... danh-du-dunh-du. (maybe) If you feel it is a fuel flow problem, I'd consider a mechanical petcock. OTOH, you were headed down the other side of the bridge when you felt the interruption. Given that the throttle was closed, or close, or at least at less than WOT, the engine/CVT would be less loaded, and would shift within limits of the mounts. Could it be that there's a wire that stretches or moves when you 'load/unload' the drivetrain? If you had a CDI or pickup wire that was marginal, it could be doing intermittent connections based on how loaded the engine/CVT was in making it move. You ran it to 8k on the center stand... but... it was no loaded with the effort to move you and itself, just the load of turning the rear wheel. Might not hurt to take a look at the things that impact the sparky... CDI wires, the stator wires and the connections on the right side of the frame, where the stator leads connect to the wiring harness. There are two(at least on some) separate wires that are bullet connectors. If they are not connected... you get no spark. tom Hey tom! Nope I think I figured it out finally. It was air restriction at higher RPMS. stock air box wouldn't deliver enough air, i started to mod my stock airbox, but on a whim i tried the Unifilter cone air intake and upjetted to a 94 main. started right up and revved to over 9000 on the stand with no blurps or anything. took it down and threw the seat back on and rode it around the neighborhood. was flawless. this morning I decided to take it out on a longer trip to open it all the way up and see if i could get it to glitch out like it did when I took it to work this past week. steady power all the way to almost 40. stopped on a whim and got the wife breakfast and on the way back hit 40 mph with no sweat. gets up to 40 in the low low 8000s, and i was actually able to drop the throttle back from wot and cruise around 39-40 under 8k rpms. ended up removing the entire stock airbox system and finally got around to removing the PAIR octopus inside the frame. i think with some CVT roller changes I could get it up even faster but Im happy with it for now. got 4 hours on this fresh oil change, need to do another one in a few more hours and I should be good. where should I go from here? i ziptied the crankcase vent to the frame near the seat area so that it can vent but any excess oil will gravity drain bank into the head, is that good enough?
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Post by tortoise2 on Nov 24, 2019 12:34:58 GMT -5
Until connecting rod or crankshaft bearings fail. Going to have to "pay the piper" eventually for gaming the moped-class stipulations. For others researching . . save yourself a LOT of aggravation by initially selecting at least a 125cc and keeping it stock.
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mikeh
Scoot Member
Posts: 59
Location: Bradenton, FL
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Post by mikeh on Nov 24, 2019 17:18:59 GMT -5
Until connecting rod or crankshaft bearings fail. Going to have to "pay the piper" eventually for gaming the moped-class stipulations. For others researching . . save yourself a LOT of aggravation by initially selecting at least a 125cc and keeping it stock. Hey bro! I've seen the "gaming the system-- get a bigger bike" thing thrown around. That is not to be discounted, watching those videos it appears that person in that video (you?) got a scoot and about 2.5 years afterwards had a crank failure in the bearings. Im also assuming that was caused from a BBK. The video descriptions dont give further info. I didn't go into the BBK process without researching it, and yep it will for sure shorten the lifespan of the crank and other drive-train components. I think anyone who goes down this route needs to be aware of that. the failure rates in the poll seem pretty favorable however. I do daily ride my scoot for utility but also because I enjoy it and the added power I have noticed will be useful at least, for my situation and needs. picking the class of scoot at the time was what I could afford. Not everyone can afford the added registration costs and class costs for getting a MC endorsement. I only do about 50 miles a week. In the end, Its really up to the individual operator if the risk/benefits go your way. If your not willing to accept the risk, don't do a BBK. but really I'd love to get a bigger scoot and my MC endorsement but my wife said no. So really bro, I'm gaming my wife. Cheers!
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