|
Post by jloi on Feb 9, 2020 14:38:21 GMT -5
I pulled the front forks today to find out why it squeaked and was binding ? on full left turn. found that out , problem solved.
BUT; I also found this- operator error I think. I put all new fork bearings in a while back, upper and lower and I think when I put the forks back in the ? triple tree ? I must have had the height off a little bit - ya know, where the bolts go thru the bottom of the stem to hold the forks in. the threads on the bolts didn't look good then and now they're trashed. and so are the threads in the bottom of the stem.
my question is , those are pretty thin walls where the bolts go in . 13mm head. is it safe to re thread the holes in the bottom of the stem or should I just get new stem ?
turns out the latest ign switch I put in 2 yrs.? ago ; the lock mechanism shaft housing was too long and rubbed on the column shaft. ground the shaft housing down some . should be fine now.
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Feb 9, 2020 23:42:06 GMT -5
Before going any farther, I would at least take a look at pricing on a replacement. Not that you can't fix it, but I don't trust these stems as much as I'd like to anyway, so if it turns out to be cheap (some of these go for $30-40) it may not even be worth the second guessing.
|
|
|
Post by jloi on Feb 9, 2020 23:52:01 GMT -5
thanks, . I think the bearings are fine , so just for the fork is $60.00 plus shipping . usually 12.00 so basically around 75 . bolts are another 10. not sure what I should do.
I'm leaning towards new one .
|
|
|
Post by ThaiGyro on Feb 10, 2020 4:49:52 GMT -5
Hard to say from the photos...In my experience (s) (s) (s), I would find a suitable heli-coil and drill out and tap the holes per that given spec. (Using Loctite Blue and a stainless coil.
A few reasons: It works well, stronger than original. Plus, your fleabay buy could be shit as well. An American or European heli-coil set should cost under $10? More if you do not have taps.
|
|
Rune 75
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 441
|
Post by Rune 75 on Feb 10, 2020 6:20:37 GMT -5
Maybe you can drill out the thread's use longer bolts and a nut.
|
|
|
Post by jloi on Feb 10, 2020 9:38:32 GMT -5
ok, thanks , that's just what I needed . info and advice . I'll post the result.
|
|
|
Post by SMALL CC TEK on Feb 10, 2020 17:13:05 GMT -5
Looks like you could get away with re tapping that triple tree the lock tight it when you reassemble it and never touch it again ! lol And the stem that's worn because of the bolt should be fine .It's not a 450 f and your doing triples with it yanking etc your just turning stopping and riding straight.. llol
|
|
|
Post by jloi on Feb 10, 2020 17:42:35 GMT -5
"Looks like you could get away with re tapping that triple tree the lock tight it when you reassemble it and never touch it again ! lol And the stem that's worn because of the bolt should be fine" .
yeah ; absolutely . the stem is not really hurt. all the other threads and the bearings are good. there's just stuff I don't know about heli coiling so it's slow going looking at all the diff kits . to get out with both arms and legs intact I think maybe Harbor Freight and then just some coils off of Ama.
|
|
|
Post by FrankenMech on Feb 10, 2020 18:50:50 GMT -5
Replacement part quality may vary... Heli-coils would reduce the wall thickness, worse if you didn't get the taps straight. I might just clean the existing threads and surfaces to remove burrs, get longer grade 10.8 or 12.8 SHCS bolts with hard washers for under the heads and nuts then use red Loctite at assy with matching grade added nuts. Just my from a dufus that has never worked on a triple tree.
|
|
|
Post by jackrides on Feb 11, 2020 14:15:54 GMT -5
The members have your bolt issue well covered. Big Surprise with TaoTao using a tapered roller bearing! First Class!
|
|
|
Post by jloi on Feb 11, 2020 15:00:23 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by FrankenMech on Feb 11, 2020 15:04:03 GMT -5
Clean the bearings well and check for pits and scoring.
|
|
|
Post by jloi on Feb 11, 2020 15:41:21 GMT -5
I think best I can do with bottom bearing is wipe it well and apply/pack it with grease again while it's on the shaft- cause I don't have any fork or way to press it off - so I'll just pack it best I can .but they all look fine . and I'm happy about that . maybe I'll put some grease in a big baggie and squeeze it in there . I'll send you a pic .
|
|
|
Post by FrankenMech on Feb 11, 2020 18:13:03 GMT -5
Use brake cleaner.
|
|
|
Post by jloi on Feb 11, 2020 19:40:21 GMT -5
I would be worried I couldn't pack it with grease the way it needs if I rinse it with brakleen.
|
|