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Post by mikehailwood on Feb 11, 2020 16:04:21 GMT -5
Kymco Agility 50. New Chinese CV carb, new aftermarket rubber intake, pod filter. Bike will not hold an idle and sometimes will not rev. Ideas?
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Post by Zino on Feb 11, 2020 19:08:08 GMT -5
Is this a 2 stroke ? Did it run right before you made changes?
Pod filters are extremely hard to tune for and offer no performance gain.
If you have stock air box go back to that .Get it running right and the try the pod .
A good rule for tuning is make one small change at a time so you have less to narrow down when you have a issue.
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Post by jackrides on Feb 11, 2020 19:10:46 GMT -5
Why do you say air leak?
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Post by mikehailwood on Feb 11, 2020 22:03:56 GMT -5
Is this a 2 stroke ? Did it run right before you made changes? Pod filters are extremely hard to tune for and offer no performance gain. If you have stock air box go back to that .Get it running right and the try the pod . A good rule for tuning is make one small change at a time so you have less to narrow down when you have a issue. This is a 4 stroke. It did not run when I got it. No compression. I did rings, cleaned the head, lapped the valves, new valve seals. It came with no air filter box, just a piece of foam caulked to a piece of vacuum cleaner hose. Current compression is 150.
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Post by mikehailwood on Feb 11, 2020 22:06:40 GMT -5
Why do you say air leak? While running I spray starting fluid at various areas of the carb. When I spray at the top of the rubber intake where it is clamped to the carb, the engine RPM's will increase significantly - every time.
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Post by jackrides on Feb 11, 2020 23:32:29 GMT -5
OK. Does it require a small amount of force to fit the carb in to the manifold? Pull off the carb and manifold and see if there are any tears or wrinkles in the manifold clamping area inside or out? Does the manifold look old (tiny cracks)? Here's an untried thought: with the manifold and carb mating surfaces absolutely clean and dry, start it and spray a little quick dry white paint around the joint, stop it and let it sit for a long time. Push down on the carb when removing from manifold and look for paint in the clamping area. Or just replace the manifold and put a little sealer or Armourall even around the carb outlet then clamp. Does the clamp have a stop preventing it from clamping further? Glad you asked yet? I'd like to hear your results.
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Post by mikehailwood on Feb 12, 2020 12:31:14 GMT -5
OK. Does it require a small amount of force to fit the carb in to the manifold? Pull off the carb and manifold and see if there are any tears or wrinkles in the manifold clamping area inside or out? Does the manifold look old (tiny cracks)? Here's an untried thought: with the manifold and carb mating surfaces absolutely clean and dry, start it and spray a little quick dry white paint around the joint, stop it and let it sit for a long time. Push down on the carb when removing from manifold and look for paint in the clamping area. Or just replace the manifold and put a little sealer or Armourall even around the carb outlet then clamp. Does the clamp have a stop preventing it from clamping further? Glad you asked yet? I'd like to hear your results. Fit seems adequate as some force is required. This is a new rubber manifold but I did inspect it on the last installation and saw no imperfections. I had smeared a little WD40 on the mating surface so things would slide together more easily. In fact, I had removed both the manifold and the carb to inspect the mating surfaces (and to make sure the spacer and O-rings were not damaged). I connected the manifold to the carb on the workbench so as to get a 360 degree view of the connection before installation. At that time it did appear that the clamp was fully closed with no more threads to tighten it. Since everything seemed tight I installed it. I cannot work on it just now, but my next move will be to try the OEM clamp from the original manifold to see if it allows for further tightening. Thanks for you input.
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Post by FrankenMech on Feb 13, 2020 1:10:06 GMT -5
It does not take a gorilla to tighten that clamp. It just needs to be snug. Tightening the clamp too tight may damage the rubber and cause wrinkles and splits. One should always use new O-rings on the spacer etc since O-rings take a set when used. Over tightening the bolts can also cause cracks and warps.
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Post by SMALL CC TEK on Feb 13, 2020 11:06:09 GMT -5
What was wrong with your factory Kymco carb?
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Post by mikehailwood on Feb 13, 2020 14:31:07 GMT -5
What was wrong with your factory Kymco carb? The float valve leaked, bystarter failed a bench test and someone had mangled the idle jet which I couldn't remove.
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Post by SMALL CC TEK on Feb 13, 2020 19:03:27 GMT -5
The Kymco carb is so much better that's all . The consistency is the issue with the Chinese ones. Do you have the same size jets in the Chinese as Kymco carb or close ? Sometimes you must tear the new Chinese carb down and basic blueprint it so it works properly ... Making sure the floats are adjusted right ,making sure the slide is smooth and diaphragm is working and not leaking etc making sure the jets are what you need for your motor . Making sure the jets are clean even if it's new never used etc ... Like the others here say if you have a pod filter and not a bunch of experience tuning it will be so tough for you !
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Post by FrankenMech on Feb 13, 2020 19:05:40 GMT -5
What was wrong with your factory Kymco carb? The float valve leaked, bystarter failed a bench test and someone had mangled the idle jet which I couldn't remove. Hmmm, 'someone' went all gorilla on the idle jet....
What is a bystarter?
I use a pod filter and did notice a performance increase. I modified my carb and didn't have any trouble tuning it but then I have been working on carbs for over 50 years. The stock scooter carb setup sucks.
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Post by mikehailwood on Feb 13, 2020 19:58:13 GMT -5
"What is a bystarter?"
The electric device which opens and closes the enriching circuit.
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Post by FrankenMech on Feb 13, 2020 21:48:24 GMT -5
Never heard it called that, just an enricher with a thermoelectric valve. It operates much like a radiator thermostat. Did the term come out of a Chinese service or operators manual?
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Post by mikehailwood on Feb 14, 2020 7:09:11 GMT -5
Never heard it called that, just an enricher with a thermoelectric valve. It operates much like a radiator thermostat. Did the term come out of a Chinese service or operators manual? "Auto bystarter" is the term used in the Agility 50 service manual. I first ran across the device and term years ago when working on a Honda Spree scooter (NQ50 -about 1985 model year if I recall).
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