Post by ThaiGyro on Jun 18, 2020 4:22:57 GMT -5
nme...190mech is right. You can do many things to a stocker but just swapping pipes simply makes noise and creates tuning problems.
In my early days, on a '75 RD-350 I had changed pipes and made noise but could not make 100 mph with tuning. (It was slower top end) Frustrated, and with some brain power as he suggested above, (my mentors were Rick Schell, Bob Works and more) I went back to the stock pipes, but with better carb tuning and a TZ type port design, to match an older 350 race bike. Eventually made 110 mph.
The picture we are trying to paint is pipes are pipes. Tune to them as they are...max out what you have, then go to more performance, but do not start with the pipe, though many do. To me? It is like herding cats.
If you start with a performance pipe, you will need some coin to chase it. The fun never stops. IMO, if you KNOW what you want, you can find the answers, or close right on these pages.
My scooter example, is my Gyro. I wrote a note to 190mech, to ask for pipe help. He gave me some advise and a pipe target to shoot for in building. I build that "spec", but the first one was crap. The design was great, but could not make it fit my scooter as spec would have it, so had to deviate. The "design" setup was a +2 hp gain on paper. On an engine dyno was +1.3. That was until I tried to fit in in the scooter. Head pipe issues. Since then I have changed the geometry and direction of the pipe flow, but not "exactly" the given spec. Plus, I have learned to TIG weld much better.
It looks like shit, but makes 10,000+ rpm and now near 9 hp. Many mods, many money. Still only does 30+ mph, but Super power down low to mid range, and not bad top end. (Do not laugh, it is an OEM three wheeler with stupid wide rear tires)
That is money and experience...
In my early days, on a '75 RD-350 I had changed pipes and made noise but could not make 100 mph with tuning. (It was slower top end) Frustrated, and with some brain power as he suggested above, (my mentors were Rick Schell, Bob Works and more) I went back to the stock pipes, but with better carb tuning and a TZ type port design, to match an older 350 race bike. Eventually made 110 mph.
The picture we are trying to paint is pipes are pipes. Tune to them as they are...max out what you have, then go to more performance, but do not start with the pipe, though many do. To me? It is like herding cats.
If you start with a performance pipe, you will need some coin to chase it. The fun never stops. IMO, if you KNOW what you want, you can find the answers, or close right on these pages.
My scooter example, is my Gyro. I wrote a note to 190mech, to ask for pipe help. He gave me some advise and a pipe target to shoot for in building. I build that "spec", but the first one was crap. The design was great, but could not make it fit my scooter as spec would have it, so had to deviate. The "design" setup was a +2 hp gain on paper. On an engine dyno was +1.3. That was until I tried to fit in in the scooter. Head pipe issues. Since then I have changed the geometry and direction of the pipe flow, but not "exactly" the given spec. Plus, I have learned to TIG weld much better.
It looks like shit, but makes 10,000+ rpm and now near 9 hp. Many mods, many money. Still only does 30+ mph, but Super power down low to mid range, and not bad top end. (Do not laugh, it is an OEM three wheeler with stupid wide rear tires)
That is money and experience...
