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Post by scootandboot on Feb 24, 2020 15:23:14 GMT -5
So I bought a old 04 Yamaha Vino I believe it's a classic. When I bought it I got it for a decent price it ran but wouldn't accelerate with someone sitting on it just bogged out and died. Longgg story short here's a parts list of what I have to play with as well as a list of what I have done. Changed out the oil changed the oil lines from the 2 stroke oil tank to the pump and to the carb. I will note the new lines were off sized and mostly worked out but from the one way valve near the carb to the carb I used a slightly larger id tubing. Redid most of the fuel lines but because of the order of 1/4 id not od tubing I'm stuck waiting for a day. I ended up pulling the variator ring idk if that would cause issues. Also worth nothing there was some dust in the case looks like I might need a new belt but I'm waiting for the clutch springs and getting it running stock before messing around there. New Cylinder Head gaskets and cylinder. Haven't installed just was a good deal and the head ended up being chipped so amazon let me keep it. Problems I've found are minor cracks in the intake and the exhaust gasket was missing as well as the restriction washer. Set of new main jets #70-110 or so New rollers 4,5,6g Odd set of rollers that came with the new cylinder head. (otw)New fuel filter (otw)Fuel shut off valve (otw)new intake manifold and gasket (otw)new exhaust manifold gasket (otw)valve seat gasket (otw)tachometer (otw)new spark plug cap and new cdi (otw)GY6 clutch springs 1000 rpm they weren't listed for a vino but they seemed close. link(Installed) New Spark Plug (Installed) #64 main jet New carb ( link) stock from the looks of it just a Chinese clone. Same as old carb. (Installed) New Air filter Temporarily used copper rtv for exhaust gasket. Problem I'm having is the bike finally idles good thanks to new carb but it bogs out completely unless i adjust it quite a bit then I'll get slow acceleration and 20 mph top speed. I had the air/fuel set way in on the old carb after I cleaned it and the bike ran pretty good but only hit 30 with a hills help. New screw is running between 1 turn and 2 turns out. My thoughts are I removed the small filter that went into the carb and never got a new fuel filter in line and I just clogged a jet. But it just unlikely I cleaned the tank really well and at this point I'm doing regular crab cleaning with how many times I've opened the carb up and tried something. Best hint was #75 jet would completely bog out the engine above idle. Even though 64 is the same as the stock and the air filters on the intake manifold leak is small at best do I need a smaller jet?
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Post by geoffh on Feb 24, 2020 16:15:17 GMT -5
Wow,welcome to the forum,you need to slow down a little and diagnose the initial problem,throwing new parts in willy nilly will just mask it and muddy the water.spend some time in the technical section to help yourself.common probs are air leaks and loose fittings.get a proper exhaust gasket,clean the original carb again poking through all the portrays.keep on posting we will sort this out
Geoff
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Post by scootandboot on Feb 24, 2020 16:28:30 GMT -5
Lmao thanks for the welcome and reply no worries been looking around seems like everything says carb. New parts wise I didn't put many on just a new spark plug air filter and now new carb. Old carb and new carb make no difference other than with the new carb i can set air/fuel a little further out. I'll wait until I get new fuel lines and a fuel filter and give a update tomorrow. I'll include tach reading and a video if that will help. Long story short mistakenly buying the wrong part/it was defective on amazon got me the cylinder/head and gaskets. And with the refund I started getting what I figured I may need a little later. Hence the growing parts list. I guess a good question might be is it out of the question that I would really need to go smaller on the main jet? Just seems strange most people are running 70 and higher.
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Post by geoffh on Feb 24, 2020 16:38:18 GMT -5
Most likely the carb full of junk,just clean it again and then clean it again,seal up the air box and pipes with duct tape,measure your drive belt width and wait for the exhaust gasket it won,t run right without it.
Geoff
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 24, 2020 16:51:13 GMT -5
Even the slightest air leak at the intake/airbox can create tuning woes. The yamaha motor is slightly different than a standard 1e40qmb, the intake and the intake path being one of the major differences. The standard intake for the 1e40qmb will not fit, you must have the Yamaha intake. A quick temporary fix for cracks at the intake is smearing thick grease into the cracks. It sounds like you got the variator restriction removed so that is good. Look for another restriction at the exhaust header, and dremel it out if it is still there. The stock jets should be fine for the stock cylinder, as geoffh said, a thorough carb cleaning is necessary.
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Post by scootandboot on Feb 24, 2020 16:56:18 GMT -5
Look for a update around 9 pm est I'll clean the carb thoroughly let it run from a good 30 mins tune and then post a video. I'm 100% positive you guys are right I'll try some grease on the leaks airbox seals to see if that helps. Thanks everyone I'm looking forward to seeing this thing hit stock speeds lol
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Post by scootandboot on Feb 24, 2020 17:35:52 GMT -5
20-30 minute warm up. 1/4 turn richer...
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 24, 2020 19:01:55 GMT -5
Put the shrouds back on the motor, or you will burn it up soon.
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Post by scootandboot on Feb 24, 2020 19:35:50 GMT -5
Put the shrouds back on the motor, or you will burn it up soon. Will do thank you for the advice.
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Post by Zino on Feb 24, 2020 19:41:53 GMT -5
Old geek is right these engine fins require the shrouds for the forced air cooling . The fins on there are too small to remove enough heat with just passive air flow . You may have already caused some damage running it for 30 minutes without shrouds .
If you do not have the genuine vino carb which is teikei the 64 jet means nothing to the wrong carb. It is good that you have a large range of jets for dialing it in .
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Post by scootandboot on Feb 24, 2020 20:37:21 GMT -5
Should I do a compression check? If you could list off things I should do and I'll see what I can do to get them all done. This issue only happens at over 3/4 throttle if I slowly twist the throttle rpms will go up from the vid but doesn't seem to have any torque. I'll try adding some clear fuel lines and set the c clip on the needle a little higher and see if it helps.
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Post by repherence2 on Feb 24, 2020 20:56:02 GMT -5
Transparent fuel lines and a new inline fuel filter (metal element) will help you check for fuel flow. I always use transparent lines. One time, air was leaking into my fuel line from a crappy fuel filter. Another time, air was leaking into the fuel line from a faulty vacuum operated fuel petcock.
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Post by scootandboot on Feb 24, 2020 22:29:56 GMT -5
Transparent fuel lines and a new inline fuel filter (metal element) will help you check for fuel flow. I always use transparent lines. One time, air was leaking into my fuel line from a crappy fuel filter. Another time, air was leaking into the fuel line from a faulty vacuum operated fuel petcock. This is my new first thing. I just swapped them out and finally found the cause. Rust in the gas tank, I had suspicions it just seemed weird how it was fine then seemed to get worse over time. I drained the tank but I didn't take it off and wash it out with kerosene. I was going to wait until I got the lines and filters but now I'm in the process of getting the rust out and will get a filter tomorrow. Huge thanks to everyone I'll keep you posted as I move on with the build.
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Post by geoffh on Feb 25, 2020 15:30:06 GMT -5
That's great you have it sorted,you need to check the CVT area out next.I did note that you swapped the oil feed lines out for some of a different size?? not sure if that's a good idea,that oil system is prone to failure,most of us go premix to save the grey hair setting in.
Geoff
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Post by scootandboot on Feb 25, 2020 17:04:17 GMT -5
That's great you have it sorted,you need to check the CVT area out next.I did note that you swapped the oil feed lines out for some of a different size?? not sure if that's a good idea,that oil system is prone to failure,most of us go premix to save the grey hair setting in. Geoff After looking around I've seen alot of people seem to prefer premix. I'll head that direction soon but for now I just swapped that line to a thinner one, wanted to rule out a possible change in mix. After cleaning the tank and adding fuel shut off and filter/new lines. The moped runs okay again still has a noticeable problem over 3/4 throttle. I'm using the new carb never messed with the needle setting would this be worth trying next? I upjetted a few times now since its running clean, also gave me a excuse to clean the carb a few more times. Seems like #64 was too low #70 was closer #80 seems better but #85 was really great at idle but the 3/4 problem was worse. I got the tachometer in but they forgot to send the battery with it so it'll be a day until I have a idea what my rpms are. Unless I hook up my variable dc power supply... ...no no I'll wait So far adjusting a carb on a 2 stroke has proved to be a real bitch but a flashlight and some simple first steps would have avoided alot of the tinkering I've had to do. But hell the whole bike is cleaner now and I know more than I would have. Cheers I'll try to post a update video once I get the 3/4 throttle issue sorted then on to the CVT
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