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Post by scootandboot on Feb 29, 2020 13:39:58 GMT -5
Worst case it forces me back to the 50cc cylinder (I'd hope) so I'm giving it a shot the cylinder looks nice I'll check the squish and maybe go through more measuring before turning it over. I'll give a update after I get it all assembled.
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Post by Zino on Feb 29, 2020 14:14:57 GMT -5
What brand of 50 cc cylinder are you putting on. Squish is usually not issue with a quality sport kit . Mid Race kits run tighter squish .
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Post by scootandboot on Feb 29, 2020 14:50:07 GMT -5
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Post by Zino on Feb 29, 2020 15:14:21 GMT -5
Definetly check the squish . Post pictures up on the porting . You also could make a port map so you could see how high performing the cylinder is stock
Easiest way to increase performance is to polish the exhaust port to near mirror like finish . I prefer to do it by hand working down from 80 to 100 grit emory cloth or sand paper to 400 grit. The other ports leave rough just clean up any slag or casting flaws . You want them to be rough to cause the fuel mixture to be turbulent. Knock the sharp edges off all the ports with a file so they don't catch a ring . Mark the exhaust pipe header with paint and mate it to the exhaust port to see that they are matched for size dremel to match it closer .
Just the polishing the cylinder and matching the exhaust port can really wake these 2 strokes up.
Now if you have done a port map and compare to others on here you may find you can raise the exhaut port a couple mm to raise rpms This can be risky you go to far and performance goes down hill .
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Post by Zino on Feb 29, 2020 15:20:23 GMT -5
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Post by scootandboot on Mar 1, 2020 11:41:12 GMT -5
Does anyone have a link to a cheap source for 1e40qmb electric start motors? 26 is the lowest price I've found but sadly I need to find something cheaper. Long story short burn up the motor turning over the new cylinder with the gas shut off finally started getting it to turn over and electric start over amped/seized
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Post by Zino on Mar 1, 2020 14:23:19 GMT -5
Kick starting is cool . If you Mod up the high compression set ups are hard on the stock starter motors . So this is one fix you may not need to do . 26 bucks is a good price for a starter .
The only you might get cheaper is you can get a hold of someone parting one out . put up a add in classified parts wanted on this forum .
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Post by scootandboot on Mar 1, 2020 21:43:50 GMT -5
So I'm reaching a frustration point I can get the new cylinder to turn over for maybe a second or two. I'm guessing its a carb problem. I have a 115 main jet in and the air screw turned all the way out it'll turn over for a second then nothing. I'm guessing I need a new pilot jet? I got a kit with new pilot jets but I'm pretty sure I ended up ordering the wrong thing. Can I just drill out the old pilot jet?
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Post by Zino on Mar 1, 2020 22:03:21 GMT -5
Ok Did you just change out the cylinder ? If you changed out the carb . Then you have 2 variables you are trying to work through . If you did the old carb settings had it running go back to those . For reference I use the stock teikei carbs on the vinos with genuine mikuni jets size 75 and stock yamaha pilot jet . I had to richen the needle and the main The idle screw I left alone .
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Post by scootandboot on Mar 1, 2020 22:38:14 GMT -5
this is a 70 cc cylinder it feels like its super lean
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Post by scootandboot on Mar 1, 2020 22:44:50 GMT -5
Ok Did you just change out the cylinder ? If you changed out the carb . Then you have 2 variables you are trying to work through . If you did the old carb settings had it running go back to those . For reference I use the stock teikei carbs on the vinos with genuine mikuni jets size 75 and stock yamaha pilot jet . I had to richen the needle and the main The idle screw I left alone . yup this worked well for me on the 50cc cylinder if I can get the 70 cc one running I'm going to switch to the new 50cc cylinder I have and wait it out on putting together the 70cc one. Until i get a new pilot I doubt it's going to run.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Mar 2, 2020 6:23:41 GMT -5
Easiest way to increase performance is to polish the exhaust port to near mirror like finish . I prefer to do it by hand working down from 80 to 100 grit emory cloth or sand paper to 400 grit. The other ports leave rough just clean up any slag or casting flaws . You want them to be rough to cause the fuel mixture to be turbulent. Knock the sharp edges off all the ports with a file so they don't catch a ring . Mark the exhaust pipe header with paint and mate it to the exhaust port to see that they are matched for size dremel to match it closer . Just the polishing the cylinder and matching the exhaust port can really wake these 2 strokes up. I am in total agreement with Zino on this. Exhaust side is mirror finish, but...hehe, we use tooth paste and a Dremel attachment. We Also try to match the exhaust port sizing to the pipe ID. Not a big deal but an abrupt edge will be a big deal. You would be surprised! A $300 pipe with, say, a 28mm opening ID, when your port has a 25mm OD...is not good! They need to get Hooked up! Soft, slow, smooth...comfortable sex.
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Post by scootandboot on Mar 2, 2020 11:51:48 GMT -5
So I've gone back to 50cc for now I just need transportation and I'm sick of not being able to ride. Cruising at 40 max now. Thanks everyone for all the help. I'll try to give updates after I've done all my tuning.
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Post by scootandboot on Mar 7, 2020 18:53:17 GMT -5
So I have a potentiality DAS question. With my stock muffler 2004 vino already removed restrictions. Would cutting it in half and drilling holes in the cat be worth it? I don't currently have money for a new muffler but I can tell it's holding me back. Option 1: cut old muffler and modify Option 2: Make a muffler (anyone who has done this please comment I can weld and bend metal no problem. I'd go this route as option 1 but I'd need to borrow a welder from a friend and I hate to ask for favors unless really needed.
Edit: Currently running a 115 main jet feels a bit to big but it works, probably need to adjust needle position and re jet. stock variator with 4.5 or 4 g weights my memory leans towards 4gs 5gs worked better but when I swapped I nearly cross threaded the bolt so I haven't been back to change it. Just got a tap and dye so I'll be changing/fixing it soon. Always run highest octane fuel I can get because it's cheap as hell to fill the tank. Mopeds been topping out at 4500 rpms which feels very low but I get 35 with 4g (maybe 4.5) rollers and 40 with 5gs. Rpms stay around 4500 pretty much no matter what I do.
Edit: Also anyone who could help me with wiring up a orange cdi would be awesome I don't have a pinout for it so about all I can do is plug it into the auto choke. I could be bold and try but I'd rather ask then start cutting wires. I'd like to wire it up to see if I have a cdi problem causing the low rpms.
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Post by Zino on Mar 7, 2020 19:55:32 GMT -5
My vino pipes don't have a cat there is no air feed going to either pipe of my 2004 vino's. Where you located I have extra stock vino pipes
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