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Post by 2stroked on Mar 27, 2020 18:34:39 GMT -5
The cdi "might" possibly, maybe, make it hard to start. BUT there would usually be signs of this being the cause when it does start, I.e it wouldn't be running that well, usually.
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Post by FrankenMech on Mar 27, 2020 22:09:26 GMT -5
Any Ideas? It took me 2hrs to do what someone else could have done in less than a hour. I'm 64 and disabled and that hurt. And the part u were talking about at the 3:00 position. Is it behind the throttle bracket? Someone told me the no rev limit CDI may be advancing my timing too much to make hard starts!! Is this true? Welcome to the disabled club The enricher is usually opposite the throttle bracket but I haven't seen all the types of scoot carbs. Some performance CDI may advance the initial timing making a scoot hard to start. The plain black OEM replacement CDI units are best.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Mar 28, 2020 9:06:44 GMT -5
This is for a Kymco 2T, but the procedure would be the same for a lot of carbs. www.manualslib.com/manual/1216084/Kymco-Super-9-50.html?page=141#manual Follow those instructions. It will indicate of the bystarter is functional or not. tom Added: You can go to the table of contents and find a section on 'hard starting' if so interested. It might give a clue that has been missed. tom
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Post by smooch on Mar 28, 2020 13:06:46 GMT -5
I'm wondering if there is power going to my fuel enricher? I have to take the seat bucket out again!! I should have done it when I replaced it but my back couldn't take it lol. Does anybody know the tourque specs in ft lbs for the engine studs? And you were talking about a part to blow through to see if it was clogged at the 3:00 position on the carburetor. I didn't see anything like that on my carb or my 2 CVK carbs. Thanks for the welcome to the disabled club.
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Post by smooch on Mar 28, 2020 13:10:51 GMT -5
Sorry engine studs on a 50cc Taotao torque specs in ft lbs? I do have a BBK in it.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Mar 31, 2020 12:23:44 GMT -5
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Post by smooch on Mar 31, 2020 14:21:24 GMT -5
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Post by smooch on Mar 31, 2020 14:34:51 GMT -5
When I rebuilt my motor I tried to torque the engine studs at 15 ft lbs and stripped nuts one of the engine studs broke stripped threads on the engine studs I ended up at 10 ft lbs and that was iffy too. Do you think the 10 ft lbs is ok. I know it's not to specs but turned out to be the only option without doing damage. One of the studs actually stretched almost a 1/4 in before it snapped off at 15 ft/ lbs. I replaced all the studs but 10 ft lbs was about the safest option.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Apr 2, 2020 9:50:42 GMT -5
I felt that 15 ft/lb was too much torque for the studs and nuts also. It just seemed that they were under a LOT of strain for some reason. Normally, 15ft/lb is not that much, and perhaps it may be due to the coarseness of the threads(tpi) relative to the torque. I dunno. I think I would have been ok using less torque, especially with a composition gasket which I normally try to use(over the stamped sheet-metal head gasket). I think the composition gasket will seal with less torque than the steel. I'd be OK going with 10. tom
Added: I just was perusing a service manual. It noted 9nm as the head bolt torque.
That is 6.6 ft/lb
Someone has posted some questionable figures. Or the manuals are wrong. I am not certain any more. I was looking for valve clearance figures to refresh my memory, and happened on the torque values.
No wonder some of the studs have stretched or pulled out of the block.
Could it be that those providing the manuals have found a way to insure failure for the at-home mechanic?
Or is it the publisher/author who has different numbers scattered throughout the manual.
Just found, in the same manual, torque to be 16-18nm, which would be 11.8ft/lb to a max of 13.27ft/lb
tom
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Post by jloi on Apr 2, 2020 11:19:51 GMT -5
I broke a stud at 15 too. BIG PITA
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Post by aeroxbud on Apr 2, 2020 14:26:32 GMT -5
My yamaha's are all 9NM.
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Post by smooch on Apr 3, 2020 13:30:03 GMT -5
I felt that 15 ft/lb was too much torque for the studs and nuts also. It just seemed that they were under a LOT of strain for some reason. Normally, 15ft/lb is not that much, and perhaps it may be due to the coarseness of the threads(tpi) relative to the torque. I dunno. I think I would have been ok using less torque, especially with a composition gasket which I normally try to use(over the stamped sheet-metal head gasket). I think the composition gasket will seal with less torque than the steel. I'd be OK going with 10. tom Added: I just was perusing a service manual. It noted 9nm as the head bolt torque. That is 6.6 ft/lb Someone has posted some questionable figures. Or the manuals are wrong. I am not certain any more. I was looking for valve clearance figures to refresh my memory, and happened on the torque values. No wonder some of the studs have stretched or pulled out of the block. Could it be that those providing the manuals have found a way to insure failure for the at-home mechanic? Or is it the publisher/author who has different numbers scattered throughout the manual. Just found, in the same manual, torque to be 16-18nm, which would be 11.8ft/lb to a max of 13.27ft/lb tom
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Post by smooch on Apr 3, 2020 13:30:17 GMT -5
I felt that 15 ft/lb was too much torque for the studs and nuts also. It just seemed that they were under a LOT of strain for some reason. Normally, 15ft/lb is not that much, and perhaps it may be due to the coarseness of the threads(tpi) relative to the torque. I dunno. I think I would have been ok using less torque, especially with a composition gasket which I normally try to use(over the stamped sheet-metal head gasket). I think the composition gasket will seal with less torque than the steel. I'd be OK going with 10. tom Added: I just was perusing a service manual. It noted 9nm as the head bolt torque. That is 6.6 ft/lb Someone has posted some questionable figures. Or the manuals are wrong. I am not certain any more. I was looking for valve clearance figures to refresh my memory, and happened on the torque values. No wonder some of the studs have stretched or pulled out of the block. Could it be that those providing the manuals have found a way to insure failure for the at-home mechanic? Or is it the publisher/author who has different numbers scattered throughout the manual. Just found, in the same manual, torque to be 16-18nm, which would be 11.8ft/lb to a max of 13.27ft/lb tom
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Post by smooch on Apr 3, 2020 13:54:17 GMT -5
I see someone else broke a stud at 15ftlbs also. The 11.8 sounds about right. I learned that when you do a rebuild use brand new engine studs always. The ones in the motor have been tourqued already so they streatched the studs already. 13 ftlbs is really pushing it too. I tried that and didn't like the feel of the tourque wrench! harbour freight $20 guaranteed calibration for us old people on a tight budget so I settled at 10ftlbs it just felt sooo good. Thanks for listing that here for me. And my scooter with the BBK seems to run better at .004 int and .004 exh. I found a stock CDI in my spare parts box. I'm waiting for the weather to clear up here in North Eastern Massachusetts. Hope it cures my starting problem? I'll keep you posted brother Unk. Any way to test a CDI at the diningroom table? Ohms I imagine what should the read out be?
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PDub
Scoot Enthusiast
Ann Arbor MEEEEEchigan
Posts: 139
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Post by PDub on Apr 5, 2020 16:46:37 GMT -5
[[this thread looks like "how to raise one's thread count" .....]]
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