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Post by FrankenMech on Mar 19, 2020 21:24:45 GMT -5
Look for a bad connection to the regulator. Your voltage readings are way high. Anything above a 14V average voltage will cause the incandescent bulbs to burn out or have a short lifespan. A bad regulator or bad connection is what caused all your bulbs to burn out. The battery is probably OK but it does seem small. I use a 12V 7AH SLA battery that fits my battery box. If the turn signals are working OK with the LED bulbs leave it alone. Some LED bulbs have a load resistor built in. Normally replacing turn signal bulbs with standard LED bulbs will cause a no-flash or hyper-flash situation that requires a solid state flasher.
At idle your bulbs may be slightly dim or even fluctuate slightly. Just above idle the bulbs should increase in brightness as the voltage rises to 14V. The bulbs should get no brighter as the RPM's are raised higher.
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Post by jacoblong09 on Mar 20, 2020 9:50:33 GMT -5
Look for a bad connection to the regulator. Your voltage readings are way high. Anything above a 14V average voltage will cause the incandescent bulbs to burn out or have a short lifespan. A bad regulator or bad connection is what caused all your bulbs to burn out. The battery is probably OK but it does seem small. I use a 12V 7AH SLA battery that fits my battery box. If the turn signals are working OK with the LED bulbs leave it alone. Some LED bulbs have a load resistor built in. Normally replacing turn signal bulbs with standard LED bulbs will cause a no-flash or hyper-flash situation that requires a solid state flasher.
At idle your bulbs may be slightly dim or even fluctuate slightly. Just above idle the bulbs should increase in brightness as the voltage rises to 14V. The bulbs should get no brighter as the RPM's are raised higher.
Yea they're nice zevo led bulbs so they're probably ok without the resistors. Yea what you're saying about the brightness is what I'm experiencing. When my multimeter is set 20vdc it stays around 12v steady no matter what, but with it set to 200vdc it reads much higher so I wonder if maybe the issue is somehow my connections to the battery? I have 2 positive wires going to it, one thick one and one thinner one I use for the radio and usb charger I use. Again I'm going to order a regulator later today just to be safe anyway.
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Post by jackrides on Mar 20, 2020 10:51:35 GMT -5
Where exactly are you measuring V? Can you print the wiring diagram, sketch on it the resistors, and scan it back to this site? Meanwhile, as you noted, the resistors with one wire must have a ground to do anything. With the battery disconnected, measure the resistance from the one wire to whatever would screw to the frame. That must have a good connection to the negative bat term to work. You've got one curious elec system.
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Post by jacoblong09 on Mar 21, 2020 11:54:04 GMT -5
I'm measuring volts from the battery terminals. I have no idea how to begin comprehending sketching anything on that wiring diagram lol. I think I'm just gonna wait for the new regulator to arrive. And hope. Could the new regulator fix the issues I'm experiencing with the auto enricher? It doesnt idle with it plugged in after about 5 minutes
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Post by FrankenMech on Mar 21, 2020 13:54:52 GMT -5
Headlight voltage needs to be measured at the headlight circuit. Small light voltage is measured at the battery. Auto enricher trouble is a carb adjustment problem. The enricher is a PITA. I got rid of mine when I did my carb mods.
Check those regulator connections, a bad ground can mess everything up.
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Post by jacoblong09 on Mar 21, 2020 18:21:58 GMT -5
Headlight voltage needs to be measured at the headlight circuit. Small light voltage is measured at the battery. Auto enricher trouble is a carb adjustment problem. The enricher is a PITA. I got rid of mine when I did my carb mods.
Check those regulator connections, a bad ground can mess everything up.
If I leave the enricher disconnected, will that cause any harm to the scooter?
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Post by FrankenMech on Mar 21, 2020 20:18:58 GMT -5
If you disconnect the enricher the engine will run rich all the time.
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Post by jackrides on Mar 21, 2020 23:08:00 GMT -5
Some people badmouth the enricher since it is unusual to many engines. It's actually pretty cool, except when it malfunctions which is rare. It's frequently blamed for issues that aren't it's fault. Like expecting it to work in Kansas.
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Post by FrankenMech on Mar 21, 2020 23:42:12 GMT -5
Kansass sucks! I took mine off and blocked it off because when I started the scoot and rode a few blocks to the store the scoot would not restart. I just ran the idle mix a little rich and kicked the throttle a few times to keep it running while the engine warmed up. Worked like a charm. Too many 'automatic' functions don't work worth a damn.
Now I live in plague central in Kansass. Dumb ass government people just let people fly all over the US and spread the plague. The political infighting will cost many people their lives.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Mar 22, 2020 3:05:01 GMT -5
Should revving the scooter change the brightness of any of the bulbs? On my old Honda system, (1984) with an alternator coil dedicated to lighting yes. Most newer systems are wired with the lighting from the battery side...that would be NO.
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Post by christopher on Mar 22, 2020 10:29:20 GMT -5
Should revving the scooter change the brightness of any of the bulbs? That is a scooter specific question, any bulb that works with the scooter on, but not running is a DC bulb using the battery as a power source. With a good battery there should be little to no change. Did you ever fix the 30 volt DC issue? If not you will continue to burn up bulbs and ruin the battery. Charging a battery with anything over about 14.7 volts is quickly destroying it. Any bulb that only works with the scooter running uses an AC power source. My scooter has an A.C. Headlight and it fluctuates with the rpm, it doesn't have the battery as a reserve at lower rpm to draw from and keep the bulb lit. Lower rpm is a lower output and the bulb voltage fluctuates on mine. This means the bulb brightness fluctuates also. Hopefully that makes since.
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Post by jacoblong09 on Mar 22, 2020 18:24:41 GMT -5
alright, so I got the correct battery from battery warehouse yesterday, the ytx5l-bs, and ordered the battery compartment cover I needed to cover it. I used muriatic acid to remove the rust from my original gas tank (I was using one inside of the trunk from an old gasbike kit), and I redid all of my hoses and fuel system stuff. same carb, runs great. I snipped the enricher, I don't need it, as long as it runs in the cold (it does) and stays running (it does), its money well spent. on the battery issue, so I figured out that with my meter set to 20vdc, it stays at 12-13 volts when I rev it with the brake held in. when my meter is set to 200vdc, it must be far more sensitive at lower values, that's the only time that I ever see those numbers. my usb adapter has a volt LCD display, and it stays at a maximum of 14v on the best of days, so the charging is good. all the bulbs that are in the dash blew again, as well as the headlight bulbs, but my regulator arrives tomorrow, so that's easily remedied. the hole in my wallet is not easily remedied however after 2work tomorrow I will install the regulator and redo all these measurements, and will buy the dirt cheapiest bulbs from the part store (the one that's open during the virus ) on payday this Friday and post yet another update then. its all money well spent... right? right? ?
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Post by 2stroked on Mar 22, 2020 19:47:09 GMT -5
The enricher is letting you know of an issue. Unplugged, unhooked, or cold, the plunger is retracted. This allows "*more fuel*" into the mix. If the bike is running well, cold, warm, idle-wot, this is telling you something is not quite right. Of course, it runs. So it's a possible non-issue, but then again, you'll never get the best power, reliability, or economy from an engine that is out of whack, so to speak.
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Post by jacoblong09 on Mar 24, 2020 11:24:43 GMT -5
OK, UPDATE TIME.
I got the regulator in the mail last night and installed it in place of the old one this morning. I made sure the bracket I bolted it to had ground, and I also made sure the resistors had ground as well. they both had ground. the new resistor made a huge difference. I can see the voltage increasing on my volt meter at idle now, and even with the battery low from the few previous rides without charging, it got it from 12.4 volts up to 13.5volts just riding it up and down my street a few times. I might try plugging the enricher in later to see if the issue I had with it was wonky voltage going into it (supposedly its connected directly to the regulator, according to some things I've read), and i'll get some bulbs as soon as I can to test that too. the muriatic acid really helped me out as well. switching back to the vacuum pump and the oem tank eliminated hard starting at least so far. I found some vacuum leaks as well, and i'm eager to test that autochoke again.
I think I'm making some slow progress here, I could probably get it registered right now, if the dmv wasn't closed haha. i'm doing the Vermont loophole to title it, fingers crossed! i'll post a video of it, and maybe try to get some shots of the wiring mess I've got. I removed my old alarm system so I haven't gotten around to fixing the wiring up near the speedo yet.
i'm ordering a new speedo, I had issues with the fuel gauge and opened it up to check it out, then immeadiately dropped it face first right onto concrete, so that's done.
anyone who could point me to a place where I can find a nice gauge cluster, or preferably a nicer one maybe with some digital readouts, that wouldn't require too much modification, I would be extremely grateful to find one
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Post by jacoblong09 on Mar 24, 2020 19:54:06 GMT -5
alright now we're talking! I put in a new headlight bulb and dipped bulb and both are at a good, steady brightness. im also happy to report that the battery is at 13.5 at idle and 14.2-14.4 at speed. with the radio blaring and the phones a chargin
I've left the resistors connected for now, mostly because there is no difference I can notice with them disconnected, but also because the dash lights are all obviously gone atm.
thanks all for the great help so far!!!
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