|
Post by hippo008 on Jun 13, 2021 18:14:12 GMT -5
What is the hole to hole length of the stock shock? I'm not sure, I can measure later this week. The YSS shock I'm using is maybe 1" shorter.
|
|
|
Post by hippo008 on Jun 13, 2021 18:15:13 GMT -5
Gauges mounted on the new headset cowling. Fixed some wiring problems that were preventing the Trailtech from lighting up properly.
|
|
|
Post by Zino on Jun 15, 2021 7:26:07 GMT -5
Bando 758x17.5x28 This is down from 6 mm in the back to 2mm That blue mark on toothpick is marked at 5mm. If you have a larger than stock front pulley this may work for you. It would require some shimming . Stock belt is Bando 738x18x30 The bandos roll out on the table to the exact lengths of 738 and 758. A belt some where in the middle should be the ticket for the stock pulley.
|
|
|
Post by hippo008 on Jun 15, 2021 8:46:22 GMT -5
Bando 758x17.5x28 This is down from 6 mm in the back to 2mm That blue mark on toothpick is marked at 5mm. If you have a larger than stock front pulley this may work for you. It would require some shimming . Stock belt is Bando 738x18x30 The bandos roll out on the table to the exact lengths of 738 and 758. A belt some where in the middle should be the ticket for the stock pulley. How does this look on the variator? Are you getting full travel on the variator too? I'm a little concerned about the different belt angles. Would that not affect "traction" in the system?
|
|
|
Post by Zino on Jun 15, 2021 16:11:42 GMT -5
I did not have any shims to tighten up the front pulley against the belt . By how tall it got in the back pulley and ate up 4mm of Travel . That would put it at the top of the front pulley I had the belt on the shelf so I thew it on . To give me an idea oh how Long I could go.
Is the Malossi drive face bigger than the stock variator ? If you got shims I could send you the belt.
28 vs 30 degrees belts I have used both on low rpm builds and shimmed right they worked I need someone else to chime in on this for the higher rpm builds
|
|
|
Post by hippo008 on Jun 15, 2021 18:54:16 GMT -5
I did not have any shims to tighten up the front pulley against the belt . By how tall it got in the back pulley and ate up 4mm of Travel . That would put it at the top of the front pulley I had the belt on the shelf so I thew it on . To give me an idea oh how Long I could go. Is the Malossi drive face bigger than the stock variator ? If you got shims I could send you the belt. 28 vs 30 degrees belts I have used both on low rpm builds and shimmed right they worked I need someone else to chime in on this for the higher rpm builds I'm running the malossi multivar in the front. I do believe it's slightly larger than stock. I have shims up the wazoo, I got a bunch of them for free from a machine shop and giveaways. Frankly I am not experienced in CVT tuning, I don't really understand the point of shimming outside of "make the space between these two pulleys bigger"
|
|
|
Post by Zino on Jun 15, 2021 20:38:37 GMT -5
Variator Shimming is just so the belt hits rock bottom on front pulley but tight against both plates so that it doesnt slap around till the motor speeds up.
When you change variators or belts you usually need shims to make sure its rock bottom and snug .
|
|
|
Post by Zino on Jun 15, 2021 21:56:40 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by hippo008 on Jul 19, 2021 21:20:50 GMT -5
I installed an LED headlamp for the Roughhouse. Checkout the video here. Terrible news about Ken
|
|
|
Post by hippo008 on Jul 29, 2021 19:27:50 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by hippo008 on Jul 30, 2021 17:24:22 GMT -5
Update: No luck with jetting changes to bring the temperature down.
I checked the coolant hoses and everything seemed okay, the routing seems correct. It goes like this
pump -> cylinder -> cylinder head -> top of radiator -> bottom of radiator out -> pump
there is enclosed space behind the radiator, however theres a very large gap between the front cowling and the kicker panel. Tomorrow I am installing the water temp probe too see what kind of coolant temps im getting. I figure if the coolant is a similar temperature to the head then there is a problem with the cooling system as a whole. If there is a big temperature delta I will know theres an engine problem and not a cooling issue.
|
|
|
Post by hippo008 on Jul 31, 2021 16:13:46 GMT -5
I installed the coolant temperature sensor. Coolant never goes above 140F except at long stop lights. However CHT hit almost 300F even without long periods of wide open throttle. I think it's important to note I am reading CHT with a TrailTech TTO and thermistor ring on the spark plug. I made sure to remove the old sealing washer before thermistor installation. I also get hanging idle coming down from 10,000+ RPM. All those symptoms point to an air leak IMO, however I pressure tested this motor and I had no issues.
My next idea was an airleak around the carb boot. That's the one part of the system that changed and potentially the leak point. So I broke out the carb cleaner and sprayed around with the scoot idling to hopefully see what the issue is. No dice, no idle change.
I'm scratching my head here. Could this be a timing issue? Like super advanced timing? I'm at a loss as to what to test next
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Jul 31, 2021 17:29:57 GMT -5
Try picking up the jet needle a notch or two,maybe a 45 pilot too..High timing causes hot running,can you put a timing light on it to see where its at?
|
|
|
Post by hippo008 on Jul 31, 2021 19:45:31 GMT -5
Sadly I don't own a timing light, however I could get a cheapy from Harbor Freight. I used a woodruff key when I installed the flywheel though, so I am not sure how that could have gotten screwed up. Wrong flywheel maybe?
With the 42 pilot and the fuel screw out 3 turns the scoot is breaking up and gurgling at idle. I'll try the 45 and we'll see what happens. I'll mess about with the needle after I workout the pilot situation. I put on an airbox today in hopes of making it easier to tune.
|
|
|
Post by hippo008 on Aug 3, 2021 15:02:34 GMT -5
Finally figured out what's going on with my high CHT. I pulled the motor, again, and found out the motor had another air leak by the cylinder base gasket. This would be the third leak I have had, so I went for broke. I pulled the cylinder studs out and the piston out. Then I used some 600grit sandpaper to take any imperfections out of the gasket surface. I also used acetone and wiped down all sealing surfaces. After a 10 minute pressure test the motor is FINALLY air tight. For good this time!
There was a small imperfection in the small case half, the carter opening was just a smidgen taller than the large case half. I used the sandpaper and a piece of thick aluminum to sand that tiny edge flat. This should prevent any leaks going forward.
|
|