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Post by jloi on Oct 6, 2020 19:47:28 GMT -5
You rascal . eh , NP . that's the metal flake black huh ? looks great . how many coats of the black. how long between coats ?
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Post by hippo008 on Oct 6, 2020 20:04:26 GMT -5
Four light coats of black with a 10~ minute flash between each coat. After 45 minutes four coats of clear with a 10~ minute flash, last coat is thick
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Post by hippo008 on Oct 13, 2020 16:30:01 GMT -5
I decided to take my build a different direction today. I was watching Brent's most recent Endless Summer Scootin' video (great video if you see this Brent) and really liked ryan_ott 's TrailTech installation on his Zuma featured in the video. I had been thinking about going back to covered bars for a little while now. I am part of a local scooter club on Facebook. Most of the members ride import Dio's or Jog's with that slick 90's headlight cowling. After a few rides I really started to dig the look, I think it looks a lot better than the red naked bars I have installed right now. Conveniently covered bars also solves my wiring problem. All the wires will be neatly tucked inside the plastics and not visible. I think it will look a lot cleaner. Heres a photo of those sweet Dio headlight cowls I like so much. Heres my progress so far. I hope to do a clean installation like ryan_ott . My ugly lil' Roughhouse doesn't hold a candle to those slick 90's Dios but I sure will try.
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Post by ryan_ott on Oct 13, 2020 17:44:28 GMT -5
You can probably find some pictures in my build but basically used a piece of kydex in place of the stock cluster and mounted the vapor through it. Kydex is a very moldable product with some heat. It’s secured with “goop” adhesive and has been trouble free for a long time.
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Post by hippo008 on Oct 13, 2020 18:44:01 GMT -5
You can probably find some pictures in my build but basically used a piece of kydex in place of the stock cluster and mounted the vapor through it. Kydex is a very moldable product with some heat. It’s secured with “goop” adhesive and has been trouble free for a long time. Thanks for the info. If that Kydex material really is smooth on one side that could be ideal. After looking at the stock cowling the internal structure is too complicated to easily remove without damaging something else. Ill probably end up epoxying a piece of Kydex smooth side up over the top of the preexisting gauge holes. The textured side would already have some tooth for my epoxy to bond to. Then use some body filter and sanding blocks to smooth it all out. It would require a repaint but at this point that's probably a good thing. I've been wanting to paint the panels anyways. I am *very* tempted to buy some carbon and skin everything in 2K carbon however I am hoping leveler heads prevail
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Post by ryan_ott on Oct 13, 2020 19:01:47 GMT -5
I wrapped my 2smoker silencers in carbon vinyl and turned out and is holding up well. The vinyl could be an option. Actually here is another...
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Post by hippo008 on Oct 13, 2020 20:13:35 GMT -5
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Post by hippo008 on Oct 16, 2020 12:59:27 GMT -5
This just came in the mail! Polini 3G adjustable clutch. The lil Roughhouse is going to be power wheeling like nobody's business.
EDIT: Quick question for the members of the forum: my belt is basically impossible to get on. I have to open the clutch pully so wide that the belt is half way down the rear pully. When its seated in both the front and rear drive pullys the belt sits about 1/2" from the top edge of the rear pully. Letting the scooter idle didn't solve the problem. I also can barely attach the kicker-cup to the crankshaft. I essentially have to squeeze the belt between the drive face and pully to get the kicker cup to fit. I am wondering if my drive boss is too short? These CVT systems I dont totally understand yet. I attached a photo of what my rear pully looks like. I wasn't able to take a photo at the time. This is just an example.
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Post by Steve B on Oct 16, 2020 19:49:54 GMT -5
Did you by any chance install a new variator? If so IE "malossi multivar" commonly requires you to remove the electric start clutch so it properly fits, if you do not remove the starter clutch and just install the multivar variator the belt will be real hard to get on the front fixed pulley. The kick starter crown will not properly fit on the splines and you will be taking off in 2nd gear all the time. This may be whats causing you're belt issue.
If everything is original, You should take the variator off and inspect it to make sure the rollers are properly seated and the variator is pushed back all the way against the clutch. If not that can cause the same problem.
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Post by hippo008 on Oct 16, 2020 20:19:59 GMT -5
Did you by any chance install a new variator? If so IE "malossi multivar" commonly requires you to remove the electric start clutch so it properly fits, if you do not remove the starter clutch and just install the multivar variator the belt will be real hard to get on the front fixed pulley. The kick starter crown will not properly fit on the splines and you will be taking off in 2nd gear all the time. This may be whats causing you're belt issue. If everything is original, You should take the variator off and inspect it to make sure the rollers are properly seated and the variator is pushed back all the way against the clutch. If not that can cause the same problem. I did in fact install the Malossi Multivar. I still have electric start installed. I was under the impression I could still use electric start as the PGO motors dont use a starter clutch. Will that have any relationship with the belt riding low on the rear pully?
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Post by 808ministroke on Oct 17, 2020 0:18:49 GMT -5
Dont know how the genuine starters work do they use a bendix like a gy6? Anyway there should have been some kind of spacer that xame with ur multivar atleast they do with polini high speed variators were you switch it out is behind the vatiator itself if no starter clutch than afyer your ramp plate. There should be a spacer there of some sort already and the malossi variator should come with a slightly shorter one alowing more belt travel.
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Post by hippo008 on Oct 17, 2020 8:34:45 GMT -5
So here's the current installation. Yes the PGO starters do employ a bendix.
Original Spacer -> Original Starter Gear -> Malossi Ramp Plate -> Malossi Drive Boss -> Multivar Variator -> PGO Drive Face-> Kicker Cup -> washer -> PGO lock nut
The Multivar did come with some sort of spacers but I didn't know what to do with them. The instructions came in Italian minced English and didn't make sense.
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Post by Steve B on Oct 17, 2020 9:16:41 GMT -5
I am not certain on pgo scooters but it's one of two ways it will work either change the spacer behind the starter gear "If that doesn't work" you can try removing the electric start gear on the spline crank shaft. Or it will be a combination of both. Whether it be changing the spacer behind starter gear and leaving the gear or changing the spacer and removing the gear.
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Post by hippo008 on Oct 19, 2020 19:41:11 GMT -5
You guys got any idea where I can get one of those spacers for the Malossi Multivar? Any sort of spacer will work I can just trim'er down a bit. Im not sure the diameter of PGO cranks
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df41590
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 285
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Post by df41590 on Oct 19, 2020 20:27:08 GMT -5
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