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Post by lunatuck on Apr 27, 2021 13:36:41 GMT -5
Today’s plan was to go for a ride with wifey. If I had enough time, then afterwards I could work on some final tweaks with jetting now that it’s reasonably warm.
Started the Buddy and let it warm up. Tried to start the Tao Tao and the damn thing wouldn’t start. Not unusual for it to be a little difficult, but I was expecting it to be easier considering I had it started a few days ago and started it many times throughout the winter. An hour later, it’s still not starting. I jumped it, checked for spark, took the while carb off and checked the jets, basically the whole shebang when something wont start. I never figured out what was wrong, but ran out of time because I need to pickup my kids. “Wait, lemme try one more time before I leave.” It started up. Thats an hour and a half of my life I’ll never get back. I still have no idea what was wrong. I just hope it doesn’t happen again.
Hopefully, I get a chance to work on the Buddy. I do need to find a shorter screwdriver, because its really hard to get to the fuel mix screw. They put that thing in the absolute worst spot.
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Post by geoffh on Apr 27, 2021 14:38:06 GMT -5
I have sometimes found the gremlin bell required emptying and once cleared and reset the problem has gone. Geoff
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Post by lunatuck on Apr 27, 2021 15:02:45 GMT -5
Well, one goal accomplished. Dropped the pilot jet to 40 and my idle cleaned up as did my throttle response. It’s also hotter out, so the natural richening of the mixture helped my main jet. On my normal uphill jetting run, I got 49mph. I translate that to be approx 53-55mph if I had any flats around, but I dont. Best I’ve gotten was 52mph between two red lights riding along the valley and it had more.
Now I’m wondering if a richer main will help, but gotta let the engine cool down. I also worked on my carb removal technique. I’m getting better with the Dellorto. Took about 7 minutes to change the jet.
Edit: 2nd jetting run hit 51mph. No change to main.
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Post by Zino on Apr 30, 2021 7:28:42 GMT -5
To help out the next guy When you swap gears on this scoot . Take some pictures of before and after so others know what to press on and off . These Buddys with a 70cc paired gears and pipe really fly.
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Post by lunatuck on Apr 30, 2021 9:02:41 GMT -5
To help out the next guy When you swap gears on this scoot . Take some pictures of before and after so others know what to press on and off . These Buddys with a 70cc paired gears and pipe really fly. I plan on it.
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Post by lunatuck on May 2, 2021 10:30:19 GMT -5
Now I’m second guessing myself on the gear up kit. I do have a lot of hills. In fact, it’s all hills. Particularly the main road to my house where it’s a 35mph uphill zone where cars drive 50mph plus. If I lose that pep going up that hill, or it slows me down, then I won’t be happy with the gear up kit.
I may wait until I get a new clutch and see how the scoot responds to a higher takeoff rpm. The red clutch springs only got me to about 4k rpm takeoff. I’m thinking the way the power seems to ramp up means I’ll get a huge takeoff boost at 5-6k rpm.
I’m also unsure of how the cvt will impact the gear up kit. I know it should keep me in a lower gear and may not have a huge impact on my hill climbine, but I’m just afraid of what I’ll lose. I’ve always looked at my main road hill climb to be the most dangerous part of my ride. I have had a number of close calls in my car, and my wife had two accidents on that road. So I look at the ability to speed up that road and get some distance between me and traffic to be a safety issue.
Gonna think about it for a week or so. Open to any experiences, but from what I’ve read, hill climbs can get really tough with too agessive of a gear up.
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Post by Zino on May 2, 2021 18:42:47 GMT -5
With gears I noticed really no difference on take off or hill climbing That with the malossi kit paired with 4 different pipes Yasuni R ,Tecnigas Next R ,Tecnigas Silent Pro,Malossi Wild Lion
I just ran a notch lower weights to get the same shift points . For example If your scoot makes best power at 9 k rpms . You will notice with Gears the same weights in the variator only spin up to 8500 rpms so you may be dropping them by a half gram or more . I power right up the hills by house .They ate all 45 plus mph road So I cannot putt putt up them .
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Post by lunatuck on May 3, 2021 13:47:59 GMT -5
Gear up kit installed... So I went to a 9.5:1 ratio from the stock 11.5:1 ratio. I used the Malossi gear kit from here... scooterpartsco.com/genuine-scooter/genuine-buddy-50/malossi-secondary-gears-15-42-for-adly-genuineOverall it took about 30 minutes not including the 10 minutes it took the shop to press the gears. I haven’t had a chance to GPS it and only took one short ride, but have some initial impressions. The change in takeoff and hill climbing is barely noticeable. The slight difference I noticed is the same for takeoff and climbing hills. When I get on the throttle, the clutch grips at about 4000rpm. The scooter feels like it comes into the powerband at about 7000rpm. With the new gear ratio, that lag between 4k and 7k seems to take a little bit longer. I don’t think my wife will notice it, but since I’ve done hundreds of jetting runs, I can notice the slight difference. The good part is that I’m pretty sure I can tune the lag out. I’m planning on getting a new clutch because I’m currently using red springs and want to push takeoff rpm to 6k or so from my current 4k. I think that should be pretty easy with the S6 adjustable clutch. I also noticed my belt has worn down by about 1mm, so that should help with takeoff and top end. It is sitting a bit lower in the clutch and I know from experience that has cost me takeoff in the past. I didn’t get a chance to sharpie test it, but am assuming the same is happening with variator travel. I also haven’t adjusted the rollers but will once I have a good weather outlook. I did notice the rollers had slight flat spots developing. I’m kind of surprised because I have under 200mi on this current set. The only other thing I’m realizing is that The road I trst in probably isn’t long enough to really run out the top gear. Just as before, when I hit the end of the road, I know it has more to go. It’s ok for jetting runs, but it’s not a good measure of top speed. I really need to find a longer flatter road. It’s going to take longer then my 1/4mi slight uphill to do an accurate speed run. I’ll update this thread when I know more. I’ll also post a picture of the inside of the case so others know exactly what gears need to be pressed. It’s different then all of the others I’ve seen.
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Post by Zino on May 3, 2021 18:03:56 GMT -5
You will be able to tune out that lag with some lighter weights . It will be a night and day difference When you get the stiffer clutch springs that engage above 5500 rpms for take off. That Stage 6 clutch is a very nice upgrade.
You will find your normal 30-40 mph cruising rpms will be down a bit .
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Post by lunatuck on May 10, 2021 14:24:29 GMT -5
Stage 6 clutch installed. It’s too cold to do the roller weight tuning, but I got the clutch engaging at around 5000rpm. Its very nice! I think it could go up another 1000rpm, but need to spend some time watching the belt movement. I want to make sure it’s really optimized before I start riding.
I also need a new belt. Gotta find one in stock somewhere.
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Post by lunatuck on May 20, 2021 11:21:47 GMT -5
Clutch RPM takeoff is at 6000RPM and it's much better.
I'm still having the hanging idle issue and despite moving up on my main jet and playing with my pilot jet, it's still there. In fact, I went up on my main and it seems worse. I did another leak test with starter fluid and nothing is obvious. I'm wondering if it has to do with my reed pedals.
The only odd thing is I put a leaner pilot jet in because every time I lean up the pilot, if feel like the takeoff performance increases, but this hanging idle leads me to believe I'm lean somewhere. So I went back to larger pilot jet (42 which I had in before). Now, it' occurs at all throttle positions, not just when I go WOT So it changed a bit , but for the worse. The other odd thing is if I tighten the fuel screw, the idle goes up a lot. I can't tell if it's performance increasing or a lean condition from the fuel supply being cut off. I do know that when I had the 45 jet in, it lagged a bit more and sounded crazy rich at idle.
The few things I'm thinking are... -check reed pedals -richen needle -go up another step with the main jet
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Post by 190mech on May 20, 2021 17:20:46 GMT -5
Sounds like an air leak or a lean condition,have you pressure tested it?Dont know what kind of carb is installed,if mixture screw is at the intake bell,thats an AIR screw and gets richer by turning the screw clockwise,if its after the slide then its a fuel screw and counterclockwise is richer..A hanging idle can lead to a melted piston with time,so that needs to be sorted quickly...
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Post by lunatuck on May 20, 2021 19:33:19 GMT -5
Sounds like an air leak or a lean condition,have you pressure tested it?Dont know what kind of carb is installed,if mixture screw is at the intake bell,thats an AIR screw and gets richer by turning the screw clockwise,if its after the slide then its a fuel screw and counterclockwise is richer..A hanging idle can lead to a melted piston with time,so that needs to be sorted quickly... I don’t have a compression tester, so I’ve just been spraying starter fluid around any seals to test. It’s a Malossi Dellorto phbg which has a fuel screw. I’m going to try to do a full breakdown to finally figure this out. It’s definately getting worse even though I’ve been richening it up.
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Post by 190mech on May 20, 2021 23:16:42 GMT -5
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Post by Zino on May 20, 2021 23:58:06 GMT -5
What main jet are you running ? The fuel screw if you tighten it down is cutting off fuel making the mixture leaner and would raise your idle .
Does it sound different When running?
Compression Test would tell us if you were down on power so it wont help with this issue .
The Leak down test will narrow down if it is a air leak and where it is with some soapy water sprayed around just like we did to find leaks in bike tires .
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