surferfratt
Scoot Junior
NorCal surfer w/2 as yet running Kymco People 50's
Posts: 16
|
Post by surferfratt on Jul 14, 2020 22:29:24 GMT -5
Hello surfrat Welcome to the Forum .Have you made any new progress sir? Hi Mech, and unfortunately I have not. Too many other projects. Maybe get around to these next week.
|
|
|
Post by GrumpyUnk on Jul 18, 2020 8:52:41 GMT -5
I have a super 9 with what I think is the same engine, or would be if yours was LC. Same basic, anyway. I had a H of a time getting it to start after replacing the rings. I replaced them as it seemed there was no 'bump' of compression when kicking it over. I figured age and miles, and it was time. Could not get it to fire. Finally got the electric starter functional, and used some starting ether, and got it to pop. I will say that 1) the carburetor settings for idle must be close and 2)the 'byvalve'(choke) must either work or be bypassed. It was so finicky, I would get it to start and idle, adjust the settings, and go to start it again and NOTHING. Put the mixture and idle speed screws back and I could get it to run again. There are MULTIPLE posts about that sequence of events and troubles. Finally replaced the carb with an el-cheapo. Got it to start and run, BUT it did not develop enough vacuum to open the petcock, so it would run out of fuel. Checked the port on the intake tube and the vacuum gauge needle would 'flicker' when it was running, but basically had no vacuum at all. I did make paper gaskets to go between the carb/spacer/intake as I was not to sure of the O-ring sealing. That seemed to help, and I actually heard the carb make some 'sucking' noises as it was cranked and as it came to rest. Making progress. I removed the valve block and found there was a gap between the reeds and the seat. Flipped the reeds hoping they'd seal better. Still had a gap, but appeared to be better. Even the fuel line was problematic, being totally blocked by hard dirt. The insulator between carb and intake was installed upside down(never could run like that). After all that, I can get it to start and idle and rev. It has taken over a year, with gaps of ^)^@%!%!@ this bleeping thing. So, set the carb at good idle initial settings, look at how far 'up' the slide is, and keep it pretty close to the bottom for starthup. Check that the 'jet' hole in the float bowl that allows fuel into the 'well' that the choke tube sticks into is not plugged. The 'jet' limits fuel feed from the float bowl to the well, and then to the tube that goes up into the top half of the carb, once the engine has started and is using the choke. As the choke works, that fuel in the well will get used quickly on a cold engine, and then be limited by the jet, preventing a very rich condition. Apparently a rich mix is good for starting, but not so much for running. I have reeds on order from china that I intend to cut to fit, and just got new crankshaft seals. I will put the reeds in and see if I get vacuum enough to operate the petcock and go from there, but have the crank seals on hand. I should check the crank bearings as loose bearings will just eat the seals. I would try a new spark plug, and spin the crankshaft with the plug removed to insure there is no fluid hanging around in the top of the cylinder. When I used ether, I removed the air cleaner tube, opened the throttle fully, and squirted a snort into the carb, hoping to get some past the slide. If the engine will not pop with a new spark plug using ether, there's something else wrong. Your compression numbers don't seem that great, but you are not getting good rpm to actually check. Effective compression may be higher with higher rpm. Make sure your CVT, belt, clutch are not dragging as they would not allow the engine to idle, and may cause enough drag that you are not getting good cranking compression. As I understand, kick starting produces more compression than the electric. It does on they 139QMB (4T) engines anyway. tom
Added thought: You could try slurping some oil through the spark plug hole, and spin the crank a few turns, reinstall the plug, and give it a whirl. The oil would seal the rings for a few turns and maybe give you enough compression to get it to start. I thought I may have washed off the oil on the cylinder walls with all the stuff I did, so I wanted to be sure the rings had some lube when first starting. It DID smoke a bit when it finally kicked off, but I didn't care as it had been months I'd worked trying to get it to go. BTW, I seem to have no problems with 4T engines. It seems all the 2T's are a PITA. Leaf blower(one will not start at all, the other seems to take 50 pulls), string trimmer(had to replace piston/cylinder), two chain saws(one works, the other ??) and a Kymco Super 9. Me and they somehow don't seem to see eye-to-eye on this 'running' thing.
|
|
|
Post by Mech Warrior on Jul 18, 2020 13:13:13 GMT -5
Grumpyunk just told you how to perform life support on that scooter. it better work after doing all that.
|
|
|
Post by pmar4015 on Jun 14, 2022 13:13:19 GMT -5
I am in the same boat with my 2009 Kymco People 2T (Two Stroke)except I am able to get the Scooter to start but alas a few seconds after it starts the engine starts revving up to such a high rpm I am scared the engine is going to blow! Note: the insane revving lasts about 30 seconds then the engine stalls and dies.
By way of background, since the summer of 2020 the scooter would not start at all until I replaced the petcock and carburetor a couple of weeks ago with cheap Chinese knock-offs (therefore I guess I am making progress (haha)).
I have been reading through this forum and it appears that the root cause is either a vacuum leak somewhere (perhaps an engine gasket?) or the scooter is simply not getting enough fuel and therefore the engine is going into hyperdrive as its last gasp before running dry of gas. The latter doesn’t really make any sense to me but then again I am the farthest thing from a mechanic.
Any help anyone can provide would be appreciated!
|
|
|
Post by jbjhillbilly on Jun 14, 2022 13:45:06 GMT -5
IIRC the People 50 2t is super sensitive when it comes to carb settings, and fuel/air ratio.
Air leak would be the first place to start. If it’s possible to rebuild your original carb, that might be helpful as well (just to remove the knock-off from the equation).
|
|
|
Post by pmar4015 on Jun 14, 2022 14:05:56 GMT -5
Thanks for the advice. One more piece of information, I had a neighbor look at the Scooter last year and he indicated to me that he “rejetted” the OEM/original carburetor. I think he may have bored out the jets more than he should have (the reason I purchased the Chinese carburetor was because the “rejetted” carburetor was leaking gas like a sieve)
Maybe I should just try to purchase the OEM jets?
|
|
|
Post by geoffh on Jun 14, 2022 14:36:50 GMT -5
It is possible to fit the carb slide in the wrong way on some carbs this would cause the frantic rev problem you mention,there is an angled section on the bottom of the slide which rest,s on the idle speed setting screw when fitted correctly.
Geoff
|
|
|
Post by pmar4015 on Jun 14, 2022 14:53:02 GMT -5
Thanks. I will check.
very well could be the case
|
|
mj
Scoot Member
Posts: 20
|
Post by mj on Jun 26, 2022 14:33:26 GMT -5
Pressure test your cylinder (there are a few videos on Youtube showing how to do it).
|
|
|
Post by pmar4015 on Jul 14, 2022 8:50:36 GMT -5
OK, So now I am faced with the problem of an excessive amount of fuel overpowering the float bowl and dumping gas out the rear of the carburetor. I happened upon the video contained in the following link and at time-stamp 14:16 the creator mentions how he has experienced a similar problem and then mentions the fact that many Dio owners place something under the Gas “?” in order to rectify the problem (note: he doesn’t want to take such an approach (hence why he is installing a “smart carburetor”) but that is besides the point). My question is, what in the hell is he referring to? I am looking for the workaround he mentions and that many Dio owners have utilized to combat the excessive fuel issue youtu.be/9AVaQyGR9nYThanks!
|
|
|
Post by repherence2 on Jul 14, 2022 22:05:03 GMT -5
I happened upon the video contained in the following link and at time-stamp 14:16 the creator mentions how he has experienced a similar problem and then mentions the fact that many Dio owners place something under the Gas “?” in order to rectify the problem (note: he doesn’t want to take such an approach (hence why he is installing a “smart carburetor”) but that is besides the point). My question is, what in the hell is he referring to? I am looking for the workaround he mentions and that many Dio owners have utilized to combat the excessive fuel issue.
he says that the Dio guys will put a gas tank under the seat.
|
|
|
Post by pmar4015 on Jul 15, 2022 21:15:58 GMT -5
Thanks!
|
|