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Post by lunatuck on Jun 21, 2020 10:29:43 GMT -5
If I'm off the throttle and going back on the throttle on a rolling hill, my takeoff doesn't seem as strong as if I am taking of from a standstill. At a standstill, my clutch engages at 4500RPM. On a rolling hill, my clutch engages at around the same, but seems to struggle to push past 5500-6500RPM for a few seconds and sometimes longer. Once it finally makes it past 6500RPM it can run up to 8000RPM+ relatively easily. My pipe/engine combo peaks at 9250RPM.
I bought 1500RPM and 2000RPM clutch springs to test out, but they should still engage within that trouble spot. I'm thinking I need a contra spring to make sure it downshifts into the lowest gear. Does this sound right? I don't want to lighten my rollers, because my peak RPM is perfect, but I'm also thinking a contra spring may change my peak RPM itself and require roller tuning.
I am still working on the stock variator. I don't know whether a better variator will help those transitions. I also don't know how aftermarket transmissions like the NCY compare to the stock. Spring and contra spring wise. I know they are lighter, so it should allow heavier rollers which may make allow for a stronger contra spring and easier shifting. I think.
Any advice or tips would be helpful.
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Post by matlock on Jun 21, 2020 13:43:04 GMT -5
sounds to me like you are not staying within the powerband of the pipe
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Post by matlock on Jun 21, 2020 13:46:32 GMT -5
well i can say if you went with the malossi multivar you would automatically stay in higher revs throughout the 0-50mph maybe try that and maybe stiffer clutch springs
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Post by matlock on Jun 21, 2020 13:48:56 GMT -5
you know not for nothing but try adjusting your airflow maybe let a lil more air into carb it might not be sucking up air fast enough and it hesitates at that rpm you can try a longer hose off the intake to airbox ic bet youll rev up real smooth you should try it on the kickstand and blip throttle then hit it all the way to full and see how smooth it goes if it hesitates you know you probally gotta feed her more air...
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Post by matlock on Jun 21, 2020 13:55:12 GMT -5
also you can try to reboot everything put in the lightest rollers you possibly can to get the best top speed you usually had then try dropping it .5 gram along with everything else and swap to a lighter contra spring you might be robbed a lot of power because if you put a stiffer contra you need heavier rollers because it makes them act lighter and if you already had to heavy rollers in the past and you put a stiffer contra to make them act light instead of actually installing lighter rollers that may be a problem as well you will be robbed blind of around 2 hp if done that way hence i say reboot it all good luck and keep us updated
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Post by lunatuck on Jun 21, 2020 14:08:13 GMT -5
I have already tweaked airflow. Gained a bunch and I've basically concluded it's not jetting.
I'm going to try the roller "reboot". IF the RPM peaks much higher, then I'll look at changing the contra spring, or the Multivar kit.
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Post by snaker on Jun 21, 2020 14:30:33 GMT -5
If things are working fine on a standing start acceleration then engine tuning sounds right. So does the basic CVT tuning.
Your diagnosis points to the Torque Sensing on the driven pulley. The TS isn't forcing enough of a backshift (forced downshift) on the rolling hills and your getting back on the throttle at too high of a "gear".
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Post by lunatuck on Jun 23, 2020 9:53:25 GMT -5
I ordered a 1000RPM contra spring. I hope that's going to be enough to get it to downshift a little better. I'm also hoping it keeps my revs a touch lower. It does a good job of staying at 9250RPM WOT most of the time, but will cross 9500RPM on long flats, and cross 10K on overrev.
I am questioning the entire CVT. I noticed that the shiny mark on the drive face is 3-4mm down from the edge, but I'm sure I'm spinning enough RPMs with my rollers to get it all the way out. It will wear a sharpie mark up to 2.5mm, but seems like it sits 3.5mm most of the time. I also noticed that the belt doesn't start all the way out on the clutch face. It's almost as if the plates don't come together enough or I need a slightly longer belt(probably a bad idea. The belt doesn't look worn at all. It only has 320mi.
Also, the belt starts to move right at the point where the clutch engages. I'm not sure if that's too soon. It seems like it is, and may be some of my issue on hills.
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Post by matlock on Jun 23, 2020 10:13:46 GMT -5
you may want to try shimming the variator that sounds like your issue
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Post by matlock on Jun 23, 2020 10:17:08 GMT -5
watch this video
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Post by matlock on Jun 23, 2020 10:17:30 GMT -5
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Post by lunatuck on Jun 23, 2020 12:08:07 GMT -5
I did watch that one before. I’m right there, and think I need a stronger contra. I don’t want to do lighter rollers becuase it’ll raise my RPM too high. If the contra helps to slow the gearing up, I’d consider stronger clutch springs to get my takeoff into a better powerband.
The issue with not getting full travel on either the clutch and variator is just kind of a wierd thing. As if I need to bring them clcoser, not shim them apart. Like grinding the drive face where it touches the drive boss.
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Post by matlock on Jun 23, 2020 12:12:01 GMT -5
there are no shims at all in ur variator right now ?
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Post by lunatuck on Jun 23, 2020 12:51:57 GMT -5
there are no shims at all in ur variator right now ? No shims at all. I don't think there were any stock besides the restriction shim, but the dealer did the derestriction. |
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Post by matlock on Jun 23, 2020 13:06:55 GMT -5
ok
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