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Post by aeroxbud on Aug 1, 2020 16:25:46 GMT -5
Oh no. Just when you were making great progress. What did you torque them down to? I always torque mine down to 10 Newton metres/7.3 foot pounds.
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df41590
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 285
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Post by df41590 on Aug 1, 2020 17:02:35 GMT -5
Was using the Eton manual on get2itparts it said 20-30n-m, so I did 25n-m/18.5ftlbs. Torqued 2 of them then 3rd one went pop.. If you get away w/ 10n-m, i'll definitely go that route. Snap-on stops in on Mondays, so gonna have him recalibrate my torque wrench just to be safe. Luckily found somebody who had them in stock, so picked up 8 of them. Unfortunately they only offered flat rate shipping, but should have them by Friday.
Guess i'll pull the variator and get to work on the electric start delete.
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Post by Zino on Aug 1, 2020 17:26:09 GMT -5
That sucks glad you were able to track down parts . This happens to all of us I had many 20 minute jobs turn into multi day or week jobs over a spring or stripped screw . 11 ftlbs is what I torqued the head bolts too . 18 seems too high for that size bolt . I looked at brents 49 cc eton beamer with polini kit here is a direct quote from that build thread . Install the nuts on the cylinder studs finger tight. Then use a torque wrench to tighten them in a criss-cross pattern as indicated by the numbers in the first picture. Which nut you start on isn't actually important, as long as you use a criss-cross pattern. Torque specs are usually 10-15ft-lbs, depending on the source. I used to use 15ft-lbs regularly, but have seen threads in the cases snap before then so it may be best to refer to a service manual specifically for your model or use 10-12ft-lbs for generic Minarelli clones. I like to do this in increments. For example, begin at 8ft-lbs, then 10ft-lbs, and finally 12ft-lbs. 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/556 |
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Post by aeroxbud on Aug 1, 2020 18:19:55 GMT -5
Seen lot of people breaking studs lately. So don't feel bad it's not just you. On the CW50 Zuma manual you can download on the left. I just checked out of curiosity, that say 10NM for head studs too. I think the Piaggio is 14NM. So the 30 is way too much. Even allowing for difference in platforms.
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df41590
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 285
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Post by df41590 on Aug 4, 2020 8:25:13 GMT -5
Seen lot of people breaking studs lately. So don't feel bad it's not just you. You're are definitely right I can't find studs anywhere. The place I was able to find some that claimed to have 18 in stock just refunded the order, partsforscooters is backordered to late Sept. I ordered S6-79166ET01 a Stage6 5mm spacer kit. Can't find the exact specs on the studs in the kit but would assume they're 115mm instead of 110mm. Should work? May need some washers under the nuts but would think the shrouds will still bolt up w/ no problems. |
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Post by Zino on Aug 4, 2020 10:24:34 GMT -5
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df41590
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 285
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Post by df41590 on Aug 4, 2020 11:25:05 GMT -5
No, I put the engine back together, so it wasn't open to collect dust.
I tried looking for M7x1.0 threaded rod at NAPA and Carquest no luck. Fastenal's website doesn't list M7, and the employees at my local store are lazy don't think i'll get far w/ them. I got the kit coming from scootertuning.ca so should know whether they work in a few days. According to description it is for the minarelli with the 85mm conrod Stage6 Crank and can be used w/ a stock cylinder. I'll try gy6store/ebay if these don't work.
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df41590
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 285
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Post by df41590 on Aug 7, 2020 18:13:59 GMT -5
The Stage6 studs arrived today., and worked w/o modification.  Unfortunately my garage has been invaded by a couple hundred house flies. Annoying little bastards. Barely made it through assembling the cylinder w/o losing my mind. Got to ask, if the rings are over the pins in the piston will it be noticable when turning the engine over by hand? 99% sure I have them in properly, but w/ being swarmed w/ flies as I was doing it i'm starting to question myself. Now to look forward to removing the cooling fan JIS screws put on by the Hulk at the Eton factory.  Though I may wait until after pressure testing maybe i'll get lucky and the crank seals are still good. |
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Post by aeroxbud on Aug 7, 2020 20:18:08 GMT -5
You would hear a loud scraping noise if the rings were not seated correctly.
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df41590
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 285
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Post by df41590 on Aug 8, 2020 19:29:59 GMT -5
Well got it all back together. Started it up and now I got a rattle  tried recording it but can barely make it out over the exhaust seems to go away when you rev it. |
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Post by Zino on Aug 8, 2020 21:59:09 GMT -5
If it got louder with revving that is where I would be most concerned .
All the real bad stuff gets worse with revving .
Low speed rattles can be carb setting ,cvt or a loose exhaust bracket fan shroud not attached right ,I have had all of these cause me headaches .
Do you feel the power difference ?
Does it feel smooth as you rev ?
To track down the rattle
Take a screw driver while it is idling
Put the metal end on the transmission case and the plastic end to your ear.
Start at the back of the transmsiion and work forward and see if you can narrow it down.
Then with the seat off check from back to front on engine
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df41590
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 285
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Post by df41590 on Aug 9, 2020 9:11:24 GMT -5
Huge difference in power, liking how quick it covered my 125' driveway. It revs up smooth until about 3/4 throttle then falls on its face, so plan on going up on MJ see if that helps. I did go over it w/ the screwdriver method and sounds loudest over the variator. The rattle sounds like the rollers are slapping around in the variator. Pulled the cover after a quick ride, variator felt tight. The starter clutch was 3.14mm and I replaced it w/ 3.1mm of shims didn't think .04mm would make any difference, but think i'll try straightening out one of the 0.1mm shims so it'll fit over the splines and see if that changes the sound.. |
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Post by Zino on Aug 9, 2020 9:47:19 GMT -5
You got that bbk smile .
That little bit of play at 1000 of rpms can make all the difference .
When you rev it up The variator would compress .
So at High rpms you would not notice it because it would fix itself .
A easy fix could be take the shim that is on the variator fan side and add it to the starter clutch side .
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df41590
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 285
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Post by df41590 on Aug 9, 2020 12:39:07 GMT -5
Moved the shim in the variator no difference. W/ shrouds off sounds loudest at the cylinder head. Idk what would be in the head that'd be making the noise. Circlips were in their grooves made sure the opening was facing piston movement. I guess maybe pull the head and see if the piston is contacting it or if bore has scratches.? I uploaded a video to youtube see what you guys think it might be. |
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Post by aeroxbud on Aug 9, 2020 14:01:12 GMT -5
Sounds like it could be a shroud, or exhaust from what I can hear. Sounds like something isn't done up tight.
Did you check the squish on the cylinder when you bolted it together?
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Unfortunately my garage has been invaded by a couple hundred house flies. Annoying little bastards. Barely made it through assembling the cylinder w/o losing my mind. Got to ask, if the rings are over the pins in the piston will it be noticable when turning the engine over by hand? 99% sure I have them in properly, but w/ being swarmed w/ flies as I was doing it i'm starting to question myself. 
Though I may wait until after pressure testing maybe i'll get lucky and the crank seals are still good. 
tried recording it but can barely make it out over the exhaust seems to go away when you rev it.