Here is rockys thread He just started building He put a pipe on his prebug that is in range of the z and he has a similar class cylinder to the Naraku . He has a way better carb same gears as you but the scoot has a 20 pound weight advantage .
You have the parts to push 50 It will come down to a good install and your tuning skills . JUst go slow One change at a time so you learn what each change does and also so if you make a mistake you can trouble shoot
2004 Yamaha Vino malossi bbk malossi wild lion pipe multi var polini green clutch springs 6.5 gram sliders 48 mph 2004 Yamaha Vino malossi bbk malossi wild lion, multi var polini green clutch springs 6 gram sliders 48 mph 2004 Yamaha Zuma Yasuni R Athena Sport .92 squish malossi variator 5.5 gram sliders budget overrange top performance torque driver polini bws 100 belt delta clutch yellow springs white contra athena upgears 14/42 stage 6 dellorto 19 mm 82M W7 40 pilot 54 mph
You will like the Yasuni Z. I have just fitted one to my typhoon. I had one years ago on a water cooler Jog. Loved the instant thrust. The reason I went with the Z, and not the R fitted to my other scooter. I wanted something with more torque low down for climbing hills, and quick get away in the city. You should find that you don't need to go mad with heavy clutch springs. The next stiffness up should work well.
Paul Yamaha Aerox NS50 2016 Piaggio Typhoon 2019: The new one Yamaha Slider 2002: The problem child (sold) Yamaha BWS NG: The Family affair (son now owns) Yamaha Aerox YQ50 2008: The fast one (sold) Yamaha Jog RR 2004: The first one (sold)
Right now the main jet is a 90. I ran pin gages through all the jets to verify sizing accuracy. Have 85-110 but 5 increments prob need to get some smaller increments. Pilot us what came in the carb. No markings. Seems ok for now. Fuel mix screw us only out about 1 turn.
I have the naraku kit on my desk waiting to be fitted so I will just throw this in,you will need a new little end bearing,the piston has a little "extra" alloy around the ports which needs to be filed away and the ports on the cyl may need a little filing,you should also pay special attention when fitting the wrist pin clips?I have had two rebuild fails because of them. Not the best picture but there you go.
In other news. I knew the battery was dead last night from the dual headlight usage so just now went out turned they key on with headlights disconnected. One swift kick without touching the throttle and it fired right up, albeit it it was idling really low on the verge of stalling. But it fired up first kick on its own. It always struggled to cold start before getting rid of the oil injection. The carb would always be full of oil and smoke out the neighborhood after fighting to get it started.
Tomorrow’s task is to take apart the headlight switch and with some creative wiring get the headlights single light on low, both on high to keep the battery full.
For anyone interested in not doing the normal dual headlight harness under the speedo cover the 6 pin plug going to the headlight/turn signal switch the blue wire is the input to the low/high switch. And a separate 2 pin plug is what goes to the lights, and green wire is low, yellow wire is high. Got mine rigged up low is single bulb to ease the battery strain when not needed, then high is both bulbs. For the led bulbs to not flicker I ran power wire fused direct to battery, and 2 relays. 1 relay for always on low triggered off of key power, 2nd relay for high coming from the switch to trigger it. The keyed power wire is split. 1 direct to first relay trigger, also goes through switch to interrupt second trigger relay.
Rode about 30-40 miles today. Bout half a tank of fuel. Prob half wot city streets. Half country roads part throttle 20-30 mph. Spent some time on the needle, and for now it is spot on so is the main. Rode excellent all throttle positions. Idle promptly drops to about 1400 nice and smooth. Battery stayed charged to restart running just one bulb. Turn it off and it fires right back up no throttle input.
However after stopping for about 20 mins it would not restart without twisting throttle, and then stumbled a bit for 10-15 seconds. I’m guessing maybe the carb evaporates from the heat?
Running great for now. Much improved getting rid of the oil injection. When it comes in I’ll start with the Yasuni z, new clutch springs, and rejet if needed. Then put the 72cc on and go from there.
Last Edit: Aug 2, 2020 15:58:41 GMT -5 by jayrod427
Here is a test run video. Perfectly flat, very little wind, got good start and stop landmarks for future follow up. The off idle delay is really obvious now that I watch this vid. And yes that was wot from dead stop.
Last Edit: Aug 2, 2020 22:11:30 GMT -5 by jayrod427
Should I think about bumping the contra spring mildly? The way I understand is the lighter rollers delay the driving pulley from squeezing into "high gear", and stiffer contra would delay the driven pulley from opening into higher ratio. If they aren't done together the driven pulley would move before the driving pulley potentially causing some belt issues.
Or with a mildly lighter variator setup is it not really a concern yet?
Senna1Rossi: Thanks renagade281!
May 23, 2016 14:59:12 GMT -5
Fox: I don't really know how to say this but straight. I am Dave's Girlfriend Kellilee and bluntly and VERY SADLY he passed away early Tuesday morning. I know he would want ya all to know this. Thank You Brent for befriending my love he was very happy on here!
Jun 18, 2016 16:26:04 GMT -5
Fox: www.gofundme.com/29mgf6b8 I hope it is ok to pass on his gofundme page link. If not you will un-post it I'm sure. Thanks again all!!
Jun 18, 2016 16:31:18 GMT -5