Stick with stock till you have some power from pipe and or kit and then make a decision
For a daily build to cut down on wear and tear on belts . You run as light as contra as possible that prevents belt slip. Race builds you care less about belts and wear and tear since you replace stuff every race So you take as stiff a contra as possible so you get good downshifting for coming out of corners .
2004 Yamaha Vino malossi bbk malossi wild lion pipe multi var polini green clutch springs 6.5 gram sliders 48 mph 2004 Yamaha Vino malossi bbk malossi wild lion, multi var polini green clutch springs 6 gram sliders 48 mph 2004 Yamaha Zuma Yasuni R Athena Sport .92 squish malossi variator 5.5 gram sliders budget overrange top performance torque driver polini bws 100 belt delta clutch yellow springs white contra athena upgears 14/42 stage 6 dellorto 19 mm 82M W7 40 pilot 54 mph
although this one is not quite a true plug chop it was after a 10 mile commute home from work stop light to stop light wot. Most lights about a mile apart. Last mile to Last turn then wot for about 1/4 mile and kill it. This plug has about 50-60 miles on it. Ring is 1.2mm
Just a touch lean, 90 main currently. Don’t have a 92 or something. Might toss in 95 when the Yasuni shows up, and open up the air box a bit.
Last Edit: Aug 3, 2020 18:56:27 GMT -5 by jayrod427
Naraku cylinder is on slight back order. Prob won't get it for a couple weeks, but the Yasuni shipped today so expect it early next week. Only downside to scootertuning.ca is freight time from Canada to US.
Last night I de-snorkeled the airbox, plugged the hole from the exhaust hose thing, and started venting the CVT cover. Yesterdays ride home noticed some rpm climb with mph drop. Letting that heat out def can't hurt anything, and I don't ever do any rainy riding or offroad. On a side note of being a bonehead when I initially changed the rollers the CVT cover gasket ripped, so I spent like $10 and got a new one. In hindsight don't even need that gasket since it's going to be vented now anyway. DOH!
I have found some oil leaking from behind the clutch so I'm guessing needs the axle seal or whatever it's called. It's definitely the final drive oil as I changed it the night before to get the right amount in, and it was a bit low as not much came out on top of being quite filthy. Used 85-140 as that's what the manual states even though I've seen the writeup recommending 80-90 or even 10-30 motor oil. Looks to be a fun time tearing the axle apart to get to that seal...... Might be good to inspect all those bearings and replace at that time.
Last Edit: Aug 4, 2020 13:01:27 GMT -5 by jayrod427
Jayrod,don't,t be to hasty drilling that air box it should be OK for a 70 kit as it stands,I cannot remember any one changing gear box bearings unless they have lost the oil and cooked them.
Ya i'm not going to do any more than the de-snorkeling. I'll inspect the bearings thoroughly when the seal replacement time comes. It was pretty lowon oil, and very dark and nasty. Prob never been changed in 4K miles.
I bought the scooter years ago from a guy coming off a DUI, and rode it mainly at the track as a pit bike. Prob not even 100 miles. Then I sold it to a guy who tooled around the lake with it. Then I bought it back from him when he got a golf cart. I am currently on a mission to get it fixed up and all things right and/or better. After the performance/maintenance phase this winter I want to strip it down and paint/cleanup all the plastics.
Last Edit: Aug 4, 2020 15:01:26 GMT -5 by jayrod427
You might be able to remove the seal the same way as a seal on the variator side. Drill a small hole, then pull It out with a wood screw. It would save taking the gearbox apart.
Paul Yamaha Aerox NS50 2016 Piaggio Typhoon 2019: The new one Yamaha Slider 2002: The problem child (sold) Yamaha BWS NG: The Family affair (son now owns) Yamaha Aerox YQ50 2008: The fast one (sold) Yamaha Jog RR 2004: The first one (sold)
This would be correct kit to get me some smaller increments? I'm not exactly sure what the carb is since PO replaced it with ebay special. But the 6mm jets I bought for it already work. I think currently I need a 92. 90 is a tiny fuzz lean even when it's hot out. I have a 95, but 92 and 97 would be nice once the pipe and bbk goes on.
Last Edit: Aug 7, 2020 11:14:14 GMT -5 by jayrod427
It is best to get a wide range of jets so you can tune it in . If you get jets from the same supplier you can buy a tighter range . This protects you from mis labeled or miscast jets from knock off suppliers . These are both mikuni jets labeled the same size but only one is genuine The holes nad angles of the jets were different one is genuine mikuni one is glixal I could make the glixal work because of the large range but a 90 did not flow like the other 90 .
Ya just 2 in front and 3 in back helped nicely. Even just idle the variator fan, and even the clutch bell move air in and out. First I drilled holes, then some dotco work, then dremel and hand files to finish.
The Z is getting delivered today! Ordered an LED brake/tail light, turn signal bulbs, and brake light pulse module. Battery was dead after slow ride and goofing around Friday evening, and just want something brighter to get more attention. Hoping LED bulbs will help just a tiny bit more on the poor stator. It's been fine as long as wide open steady riding. Might also drop the tender on whenever I can remember.
edit: CHT gage came in sooner than expected. Looks like I'm logging some miles tonight!
Last Edit: Aug 10, 2020 13:47:11 GMT -5 by jayrod427
Senna1Rossi: Thanks renagade281!
May 23, 2016 14:59:12 GMT -5
Fox: I don't really know how to say this but straight. I am Dave's Girlfriend Kellilee and bluntly and VERY SADLY he passed away early Tuesday morning. I know he would want ya all to know this. Thank You Brent for befriending my love he was very happy on here!
Jun 18, 2016 16:26:04 GMT -5
Fox: www.gofundme.com/29mgf6b8 I hope it is ok to pass on his gofundme page link. If not you will un-post it I'm sure. Thanks again all!!
Jun 18, 2016 16:31:18 GMT -5