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Post by aimjewels on Oct 5, 2020 17:56:20 GMT -5
I had alot of trial and error, and wasted cash. After I had all that installed the mechanic cut my stock airbox hose ( now I know better than to let ppl work on it ) he screwed me over. Left with half a job done and claimed no gas money there after. So I had to tool it up myself. Still have the tapping. But it's running again. He left hoses disconnected, as well as the carb. O ordered a new stock airbox. He cut the hose to my original trying to rig stuff. Also had to extend a vaccum hose because he cut that too. Lights got blown out with whatever he did. Need to buy new headlights. But all in all it's running again. I thank you guys for all the help. Cause I would have driven myself mad trying to figure it out alone! Big rep to everyone who contributed info of any kind
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Oct 6, 2020 9:08:09 GMT -5
If your lights are burning out quicker than expected, it is possible the voltage is being allowed to go too high. There is a voltage rectifier/regulator on most that produces DC to charge the battery and to operate the instrument cluster stuff. It also regulates an unfiltered voltage used to run the headlight. I say that because the brightness varies with engine rpm. I am pretty sure the peak voltage is limited by the regulator as if you feed bulbs to high a supply voltage, they will fry the tungsten element that glows and pop no more light. If you have the tools and instruments, it might pay to do a check of the electrical system. There is a video about checking the armature(rotor) and stator output, and checking the regulator/rectifier. It could be uncomfortable to have the headlight burn out at night far from home... tom
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Post by aimjewels on Oct 6, 2020 12:01:16 GMT -5
If your lights are burning out quicker than expected, it is possible the voltage is being allowed to go too high. There is a voltage rectifier/regulator on most that produces DC to charge the battery and to operate the instrument cluster stuff. It also regulates an unfiltered voltage used to run the headlight. I say that because the brightness varies with engine rpm. I am pretty sure the peak voltage is limited by the regulator as if you feed bulbs to high a supply voltage, they will fry the tungsten element that glows and pop no more light. If you have the tools and instruments, it might pay to do a check of the electrical system. There is a video about checking the armature(rotor) and stator output, and checking the regulator/rectifier. It could be uncomfortable to have the headlight burn out at night far from home... tom Exactly! and I don't think I want to mount my phone for a headlight lol!
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Post by aimjewels on Oct 6, 2020 12:10:28 GMT -5
Thanks for that info about the electrical! You're absolutely right. A blackout on a dark road is very unnerving
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