mo8
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Posts: 53
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Tick
Oct 24, 2020 16:08:19 GMT -5
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Post by mo8 on Oct 24, 2020 16:08:19 GMT -5
Hi. Is this noise coming from loose valves.? I have them set at .002 intake. And .003 exaust. youtu.be/4hTYn6FLHHg
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Oct 25, 2020 10:46:59 GMT -5
IMO, yes. It is not as easy as it first seems to get the clearance adjusted to where you want.
I have a couple thoughts, one is to try the 'too big', 'just right' method. Set the valves using the desired feeler gauge, rotate the engine two complete turns at least, back to TDC on the compression stroke. Re-measure the clearance, being very careful to fit the feeler into place without any 'external' tension on the blade as best you can. Try first with the 'too big' size, and if it fits, you need to re-adjust. If that won't fit, try with the 'just right' and be sure that the sliding tension is where you want it to be. Sliding the gauge around between rocker and valve stem should require just a little tension. You don't want too much, and you don't want it 'free'(clearance too large). Repeat the crankshaft rotations to cycle the valve parts and let them 'settle' after being fiddled with. It happens that things can get pushed one way or another and give a false reading. Measure twice, cut once. Measure twice, adjust thrice? I dunno. I assume... you mean .002" and .003" which should be ok. You could set them both at .002" and be close also. Some want to hear the noise, which is fine, but too much takes away the appreciation of finely tuned machinery.. Yeah, where you gonna find that? on a China scoot? Hmmm. Maybe. All jest aside, check them again, with the engine cold. Best to take your time, and check, re-check, spin the crank and give one last check. Don't let the feeler gauge get hung on anything else as that will skew the measure and 'feel' you get as you move it between the parts. tom
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mo8
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Tick
Oct 25, 2020 11:33:31 GMT -5
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Post by mo8 on Oct 25, 2020 11:33:31 GMT -5
Ok thanks gonna try .002 on both. And see how that sounds.
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mo8
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Posts: 53
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Tick
Oct 25, 2020 14:06:54 GMT -5
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Post by mo8 on Oct 25, 2020 14:06:54 GMT -5
Ok so I adjusted them both to .002. And the exaust valve is still giving me a Loud tick. Kinda weird. I do have a new rocker arm assembly. I could put on . Could it be the arms ? Also. 1 more question. Do I have to keep putting a new head gasket every time i lossen the head nuts? Like to change. Cam, rockers?
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Petro
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 149
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden.
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Tick
Oct 26, 2020 3:23:06 GMT -5
Post by Petro on Oct 26, 2020 3:23:06 GMT -5
Ok so I adjusted them both to .002. And the exaust valve is still giving me a Loud tick. Kinda weird. I do have a new rocker arm assembly. I could put on . Could it be the arms ? Also. 1 more question. Do I have to keep putting a new head gasket every time i lossen the head nuts? Like to change. Cam, rockers? I don't hear anything alarming there? My head gasket is still stock, head opened like 20 times without problem...
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Tick
Oct 26, 2020 12:16:14 GMT -5
Post by GrumpyUnk on Oct 26, 2020 12:16:14 GMT -5
If you still have excessive noise, try removing the spark plug, and rotating the engine through two complete turns, while at the same time feeling the exhaust cam follower. Try to wiggle the follower to see if it has excessive play on its shaft, or side to side or looseness against the valve stem. It could be reluctant to go into position so you can adjust properly. OR, it could be that the tip of the follower that pokes onto the valve stem has wear. You would have to remove the rocker arm assembly to be able to see the tip contact area. If the valves were allowed to be too loose for too long, or oil was not maintained, or hardening of the follower wear area was not done properly, the valve stem can wear a hole/depression in the contact area. Then, when you measure the clearance, it is fooling you because of the surrounding area that is NOT worn giving a false clearance. If you look at the contact area it is as if someone drilled a depression that just matches the valve stem. When you measure, you measure the surrounding area, not the actual contact area. Pull the rocker arms and inspect. IMO, as long as you do not disturb the cylinder head, you can move the rockers/follower assembly, and the cam & chain, without the need to replace the head gasket. I do not re-use the flat metal gaskets, ever. The thicker fiber gaskets with 'fire ring' I would be more inclined to re-use, but only if they come apart without any damage. tom
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mo8
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Posts: 53
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Tick
Oct 26, 2020 14:38:40 GMT -5
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Post by mo8 on Oct 26, 2020 14:38:40 GMT -5
Well I put a new rocker on it. And I adjusted the arms a bunch of time going down. Clearances. But it’s still really loud. I have the exuast at .001. And intake. .0015. How is this making so much noise with that right of clearance. Could it be the cam ? Or maybe piston hitting valves? Here’s a video. At those low clearance. youtu.be/ELwUhHngyUY
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mo8
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Posts: 53
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Tick
Oct 26, 2020 14:41:36 GMT -5
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Post by mo8 on Oct 26, 2020 14:41:36 GMT -5
And what is the follower the notches on the camshaft? And also. When I wiggle the rocker arm on exuast side to side it’s a bit noisy like clack clack
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Tick
Oct 28, 2020 11:23:39 GMT -5
Post by GrumpyUnk on Oct 28, 2020 11:23:39 GMT -5
QUOTE And what is the follower the notches on the camshaft?
Can you re-phrase that to explain a bit more?
QUOTE And also. When I wiggle the rocker arm on exuast side to side it’s a bit noisy like clack clack
If you can wiggle the rocker arm side to side, is that looseness on the shaft, or the ability to slide it left to right and back? Sliding a bit side to side is ok, but wobbling on the shaft is not.
If you grab onto the end of the rocker that touches the top of the valve stem, at TDC, can you feel the rocker move a bit as you rotate it on the shaft? The clearance should be so small that the rockers motion rocking on the shaft is almost imperceptible. tom
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mo8
Scoot Member
Posts: 53
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Post by mo8 on Oct 28, 2020 17:44:29 GMT -5
Ok I realized I had 69 arms on a 64 head lol. I put the right arms on. And the noise went away. But I stripped the spark plug hole again. 3rd head that stripped. Got new one coming in. Also found out my chain tensioner. Is faulty. Got a new one coming as well. Thank you for the help. I’ll update this after I install the head.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Oct 29, 2020 8:03:57 GMT -5
mo, you can get an 'insert' that will allow you to 're-thread' the spark plug hole. If you have done this before to other heads, it might pay to get 'the kit'. It will include a drill bit of the proper size, a 'tap' that will cut oversize threads, an insert install tool, and inserts. The insert OD, outer diameter, will screw into the new threads just cut, and its ID(inner diameter) will be the proper size for the spark plug threads. This is an example, but you need to find one with the proper metric thread size: www.homedepot.com/p/E-Z-LOK-E-Z-Coil-Thread-Repair-Kit-Standard-M7-1-0-Metric-41-in-Installed-Length-SK40715/304617984 Repairing the threads is not a difficult task, and can be done with the cylinder head still on the engine. Pretty sure it would become very difficult to attempt with the engine still mounted. tom
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mo8
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Posts: 53
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Tick
Oct 29, 2020 14:12:43 GMT -5
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Post by mo8 on Oct 29, 2020 14:12:43 GMT -5
Ok thanks I’ll pick one up. Is there any kind of preemptive measures I can do for the plug and plug hole. To stop from striping it
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Tick
Oct 30, 2020 7:56:11 GMT -5
Post by GrumpyUnk on Oct 30, 2020 7:56:11 GMT -5
I figure you do not have a torque wrench that measures how tight you are making the spark plug. So, when I do them, I screw them in all the way by hand(you can use the deep socket as a handle) until the spark plug runs out of threads and it bottoms against the cylinder head. I then turn it 1/8-1/4 turn further. Done. Likely a re-installed plug is tight enough with 1/8 turn. Especially if it has a 'washer' type gasket installed that gets slightly crushed when the plug is installed the first time. Any turns past that are not needed. The plug will not likely decide to take a trip as it is held by friction, and also by the plug wire socket. The only thing you want to be sure of is that the plug makes good contact with the head for two reasons: to seal the plug and to transfer heat. tom
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Tick
Dec 9, 2020 18:44:12 GMT -5
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Post by lovetorepairmybrain on Dec 9, 2020 18:44:12 GMT -5
Well. Did it all work out?
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