vacationer
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Posts: 239
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Post by vacationer on Nov 20, 2020 23:12:03 GMT -5
UPDATE: I did some dremel-ing on the stator and then I started thinking maybe the angle wasn't as bad as I thought. But the stator is now affixed with a couple washers behind so it lines up nice and neat with the flywheel, which feels smooth as butter now. Put it on wonky at one point and the woodruff key became lodged in it's slot pretty tight, but the flywheel still fits like a dream so I haven't bothered yanking the key out. Got the pulse coil about one credit card's width from the reluctor (probably even less).
But now I have no spark. Infuriating since up to this point the spark has been fine. Is it possible for the reluctor and the pulse to be too close? I'm getting voltage from the red/black wire on the stator (the one for the spark). No voltage registering on my meter for the pulse coil, but it does have continuity. Ignition coil and spark plug also show continuity. Can't yet rule out the CDI, but since I haven't found any way of testing it, I thought I'd survey y'all first.
Additionally, I made the mistake of letting some metal shavings get into the interior of my flywheel (where the magnets live). Pulse coil picked up some at one point too but I was able to get those off. Not sure if either of these facts is significant but they were both true when I was getting spark before.
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vacationer
Scoot Enthusiast
On Vacation
Posts: 239
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Post by vacationer on Nov 21, 2020 20:58:25 GMT -5
After some investigation, I've learned that the pulse coil is probably failing to send current to the CDI because it's grounding on the engine case, which is connected to the stator plates, which I assume are grounded via the green wire coming out of the stator. Not sure why this wouldn't happen in the stock configuration since both the stator and pulse coil were bolted to the engine case, as they are now.
On a related note, I've discovered that the stator is labeled as a DC stator on its eBay page. Is this going to cause problems?
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vacationer
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Post by vacationer on Nov 27, 2020 21:47:53 GMT -5
Alright, need some advice.
After a lot of inconsistent metering, I've discovered the problem probably lies in my exciter coil. I noticed the fabric was curling up a bit, revealing the copper wire inside. I looked to the right of the coil and there was a little glob of solder/epoxy (grounded) with some thin copper wire sticking out of it. I guess I cut into it with the dremel and severed the connection. Against my best judgment I stuck one multimeter prong under the fabric and the other on the glob. I found if I stuck that second one riiiiight in one specific spot, I got continuity. I assume I'm hitting on some of the copper that is still connected to the coil. Same effect when I connected some wire to the prong, frayed the end and stuck it head on into the glob.
Now, I imagine I would achieve the same effect by dropping a little solder into that sweet spot, thus mating the glob with the copper wire. But I don't want to rush in without other opinions. Any thoughts/warnings?
Obviously I may have killed my stator, but I'd like to try repairing before I chuck it.
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Post by jloi on Nov 28, 2020 12:55:18 GMT -5
a picture is worth a thousand words; again
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vacationer
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Post by vacationer on Nov 28, 2020 19:29:27 GMT -5
Damn, you're right. I guess I'm just a born writer.
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Post by jloi on Nov 28, 2020 22:13:23 GMT -5
Hate to whine, but, could you move back about 20 inches , etc. and take a couple more; diff angles etc. .
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Post by 190mech on Nov 29, 2020 5:49:52 GMT -5
Sure,solder it!If that fixes it,cover it with a dab if clear 5 minute epoxy..
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vacationer
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Post by vacationer on Nov 29, 2020 15:06:26 GMT -5
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Post by jloi on Nov 29, 2020 15:15:35 GMT -5
to cover it up to prevent accidental shorting out from touching some other metal - somehow - shit happens - sometimes lots of shit happens. make sure you don't connect/solder it to the other nearby wires/posts/terminals .
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vacationer
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Post by vacationer on Dec 3, 2020 18:10:57 GMT -5
Alright I had no luck after soldering. Off to buy a new stator.
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vacationer
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Posts: 239
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Post by vacationer on Dec 27, 2020 15:40:49 GMT -5
Alright gang, significant progress has been made! New stator came with a faulty pulse coil, so I switched it out and got it all mounted. I got a spark and was able to get the engine going. Every time I start it up, it feels a little different, revving at varying rates and sometimes shutting off on it own and sometimes not.
I hooked up the new rectifier as well and decided to test its output. Item description claims ~14v to the battery (I assume this is about standard). I hooked my multimeter up with one probe the wire as it exits the rectifier and then one on the positive battery terminal. Scooter off, it reads ~12v going away from the battery. Scooter on, it reads ~7v going away from the battery. Something feels very off here.
On another note, I now cannot get the engine started. I have spark still, my fuel line is good, and there's no reason for compression to have changed, so I assume it's a carb thing. I'm not sure where to start troubleshooting. Should I try dialing in the idle mixture?
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Post by snaker on Dec 27, 2020 17:41:56 GMT -5
I bounced across this thread and looks like you have several problems?
You can tell a lot about a stator just by looking at it closely. You can see the wires associated and where they terminate. You can see where the coil wires go to which exit wires.
Your photo's show something concerning. One of the stator mounting holes has a ground tab (the small metal tab). It looks like it was spread out and separated from under the mounting bolt. That could be some of your trouble if it wasn't getting a good conduction to chassis ground.
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vacationer
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Post by vacationer on Dec 27, 2020 18:38:33 GMT -5
Yo, welcome.
Yeah I was a little worried about that. That's the old one so I'll check them both to see what kind of damage I did. Now, I don't quite understand the function of the ground tab. Or why the stator has a ground at all. Here's what's in my head: current originates in the coils due to electromagnetism via the flywheel. The current exits via the yellow, white and black/red wires to their respective components (i.e. lights, rectifier, CDI) and eventually reach the ground after passing through the component. Is the ground wire on the stator meant to accept all the current that isn't accepted by the components?
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vacationer
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Post by vacationer on Jan 19, 2021 23:09:43 GMT -5
Alright gents, she starts.
After installing the new stator, I was able to get the engine running a few times, never longer than ~30 seconds. Eventually, the starting stopped and I realized my pulse coil's bolts had stripped their holes and come out. I nervously installed some helicoils and got back to business. Managed to get her running for about 15 minutes straight today after messing around with the idle screws. Great progress. Issue now is I can't find a jet set for the damn thing. Manual says "Carburetor: VM13 Auto-Choke type (or PHVA 10, PHVA I2, PHVA16 etc.)". Anyone know where these might be found? Is there any way to continue tuning the carb without the ability to try different jets?
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Post by aeroxbud on Jan 20, 2021 7:44:07 GMT -5
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