Petro
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 149
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden.
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Post by Petro on Oct 26, 2020 3:18:00 GMT -5
I can't seem to find any and therefore believe there is no such thing on the market...
I wonder if putting a (say) 1mm washer on the spring(s) will do the trick? The weather is bad here in Sweden so I'd rather ask and discuss it first before swearing in the cold...  |
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Post by 3strokeengine on Nov 1, 2020 0:42:27 GMT -5
You want tighter valve springs why? First off those 50cc valved are so danm small id bet they'd never float.
A stoxk gy6 50cc valve spring can take 10,000 RPM no problem why put tighter springs in there when the motor doesn't make anymore power past 10k anyways? Tighter springs mean less power at the crankshaft too...
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Nov 1, 2020 9:29:21 GMT -5
You will likely not gain any performance by using heavier springs. You will wear the cam lobes and followers more by the increased friction pressure(measurable? dunno) The grind of the camshaft is designed to let the valves open and close without 'banging' against the seat. In automotive designs, the cam grind is different for hydraulic and mechanical lifters. The mechanical will have a different 'ramp', as the lobe must close the gap(valve clearance) when opening AND closing the valve. The hydraulic lifter has a slight tension keeping the parts in contact, so it can be ground a bit more aggressively without increasing valve wear.
So adding spring tension is done for two reasons: increasing rpm, and making sure the valves seal. You already have enough rpms... and good valves will seal with little pressure. Ergo, not much reason to increase the pressure I can think of.
Do you have a specific reason that is unmentioned?
tom
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Petro
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 149
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden.
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Post by Petro on Nov 1, 2020 11:29:55 GMT -5
You want tighter valve springs why? First off those 50cc valved are so danm small id bet they'd never float. A stoxk gy6 50cc valve spring can take 10,000 RPM no problem why put tighter springs in there when the motor doesn't make anymore power past 10k anyways? Tighter springs mean less power at the crankshaft too... I should had corrected myself days ago here, I thought they'd float but it was my ignition coil that couldn't handle the RPM's high up. Hard to find this fault though, I measured it and it was ok, not until I swapped to another any ways I solved the issue.
BTW, yet another part labeled "Racing" that performs worst than a €5 noname coil...
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Nov 3, 2020 11:34:27 GMT -5
Yabbut, when you paint it red, and THEN put 'racing' on it, doesn't it always go faster?
The orange=colored 'performance' coil, CDI and spark plug seemingly tested worse than factory generic parts.
After reading the test and results, it became clear that labeling parts as special was just that, labeling.
There are 'tunable' CDI units on the market, not real expensive, but I am not going to take the time to muddle around with them for likely marginal change in performance. Most times they don't change the spark curve as much as move it up/down the rpm range. Some do, I guess, but I doubt my ability to capitalize on that without a LOT of time, and I'm too old to waste time eaking out a fraction of a second improvement. Got better more interesting things to do with my life.
tom
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Petro
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 149
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden.
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Post by Petro on Nov 4, 2020 18:03:47 GMT -5
Yabbut, when you paint it red, and THEN put 'racing' on it, doesn't it always go faster? The orange=colored 'performance' coil, CDI and spark plug seemingly tested worse than factory generic parts. After reading the test and results, it became clear that labeling parts as special was just that, labeling. There are 'tunable' CDI units on the market, not real expensive, but I am not going to take the time to muddle around with them for likely marginal change in performance. Most times they don't change the spark curve as much as move it up/down the rpm range. Some do, I guess, but I doubt my ability to capitalize on that without a LOT of time, and I'm too old to waste time eaking out a fraction of a second improvement. Got better more interesting things to do with my life. tom My experience tells me that the spare parts scooter market is mainly aimed towards teenagers, hench the racing labels and flashy colours... This particular one came fitted on the scooter (bought it used), an orange Naraku and though it never failed me it was apparently weak all the time. I am looking for an automotive one to try on but most of them are ridiculously long for a GY6...
The only spare part that impressed through the years is the Naraku 52.4 cylinder kit and a noname EFI kit, other Naraku parts or any part for that matter has left me disappointed but in most cases I got my money back shortly after...
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Post by FrankenMech on Nov 4, 2020 21:22:00 GMT -5
Quality of parts from Asia, with no production and QC standards, makes buying parts a crapshoot. I think all replacement parts should be a 'buyer beware' proposition. Don't look to get your money back in that situation. It is like asking for your money back at a Casino. Only a complete idiot does that.
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Post by lovetorepairmybrain on Dec 3, 2020 9:29:55 GMT -5
Quality of parts from Asia, with no production and QC standards, makes buying parts a crapshoot. I think all replacement parts should be a 'buyer beware' proposition. Don't look to get your money back in that situation. It is like asking for your money back at a Casino. Only a complete idiot does that. a little gamble wont hurt  but thanks for the tip. now i at least know at what direction i trow my dices to. |
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