Confusing because you mention motor a lot and it seems that your talking about the starter motor and/or the engine motor?
Still, it looks like your dealing with a typical bad grounding. The starter uses lots of current, meaning it pushes a lot of current through the chassis ground to the battery. If that ground is poor, the current looks for any other path. My guess is the current was going through the stator plate to chassis ground.
1. Check and clean all ground points on chassis 2. " " " " wires. Look at the wire terminal hardware connection contact area-clean with lite sandpaper. Also pay attention to the contact area between the wire terminals and the wire strands. That contact may have already been damaged and require a new terminal and/or wire replacement 3. Use a multimeter to check it. A visual only goes so far.
yellow white green... I think are charging output & a ground. If smoking, tell them to quit those nasty cigs, and replace the voltage rectifier/regulator. Pretty sure white & yellow are the output from the windings, AC voltage, fed to the rectifier/regulator. They should not be doing a thing until the engine is started, and the magnets generate juice. BUT, the output of the rectifier/reg is fed to the BATTERY. If it is shorted... power goes from BAT to REC to yellow/white windings.... direct through them ... to ground. Disco the regulator, and see what happens. As far as cranking, you get smoky wires when they are carrying too much current. There should be a black ground from the engine to the frame/chassis. Connected at/near the rocker arm/cam cover. It is a main ground. Should also have a black ground from BAT '-' post direct to the chassis. If missing, current will flow through any item or ground it can find. You could run the horn, backwards, if it was a way to ground for starter motor current... as an example. Does the starter relay work properly? It gets power from the battery via the brake light switches, and ground, the other small wire on the relay, from the starter button. May have some 'safety' switches that interrupt ground as needed, such as a kick stand cutout. Push starter, pull brake, have bat power & a ground...close relay. Even with the rectifier/regulator disconnected, that should still work. I think. If resistance is high due to a poor connection, the current flow should be less, overall, but some spot where the connection is poor, the current will convert to HEAT from resistance heating. Check for continuity, and condition of the conductor. Broken strands concentrate power to the unbroken==hot, loose connections concentrate power to the smidge that is CONNECTED, which will cause HEAT. tom
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Senna1Rossi: Thanks renagade281!
May 23, 2016 14:59:12 GMT -5
Fox: I don't really know how to say this but straight. I am Dave's Girlfriend Kellilee and bluntly and VERY SADLY he passed away early Tuesday morning. I know he would want ya all to know this. Thank You Brent for befriending my love he was very happy on here!
Jun 18, 2016 16:26:04 GMT -5
Fox: www.gofundme.com/29mgf6b8 I hope it is ok to pass on his gofundme page link. If not you will un-post it I'm sure. Thanks again all!!
Jun 18, 2016 16:31:18 GMT -5