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Post by lovetorepairmybrain on Nov 21, 2020 17:21:42 GMT -5
But this one 11 months old. Okay tomorow I shall test it for 30 seconds long and see if it goes on. Could I burn something if I try this long?
Then my next test is of everything is connected correctly.
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Post by aeroxbud on Nov 21, 2020 17:58:29 GMT -5
You need a multimeter to test it really. It's the only way to know for sure.
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Post by lovetorepairmybrain on Nov 26, 2020 11:15:20 GMT -5
Hi 😂 I'm having this problem for well over 6 months now. It won't start in the morning but after driven it a while it starts good. And I think in the summer it starts also but I forgot if this is still the case. Bad memory 😬
I finally did the Multimeter test after letting the scooter sit for a week or 2 and it turns out my battery isn't that bad at all.
When the engine is turned off its 12.50v
When it is turned on and I use the throttle a bit it's 14.50v
When I don't use the throttle it slowly turns off bit by bit but that's because the engine is still cold 😏 so it slowly goes from 14.50v to 13.40v and then turns off.
So the engine slowly turning off after 30 sec orso in the morning has to do with the starter motor? 💐
I have to say I changed the battery 10 months ago. Perhaps it damaged my engine is that possible?
I changed my
GTX7A-BS 12v 7A x 5 ~10h 150mm x 90mm x 90mm Which was dead I believe.
For a brand new Nitro YTX7A-BD GEL 12V 6Ah 10hr quick 3.0 AX1H STD 0.6 Ax5to10h
So as you can see it's only 6ah And my old one was 7A
Im no expert in at all and this is all I know. But I could be missing some imformation.
Thanks
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Post by lovetorepairmybrain on Nov 26, 2020 11:52:14 GMT -5
I have just driven it a bit 5 min orso. And electric motor started good after driving it for 2 min orso nice and warm and it starts in just one second. Of course the engine was a little warmer as I was testing it in my storage place for volts earlier 😱.
And the funny thing is it did not go off even with the lights fully on.
And when I returned the battery voltage was 12.76V If I'm right. But at idle after starting the motor 13.50V and throttle 14.74V and lights on full at 14.50V.
Do you think I should test it more? Because I haven't slept for days. Because I have a dust mite allergy and it's making me itch all night.
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Post by aeroxbud on Nov 26, 2020 12:27:48 GMT -5
At 12.5 volts, that's not good for a battery. The second reading is better. A good battery should read about 13 volts.
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Post by mikehailwood on Nov 26, 2020 12:51:36 GMT -5
"Hi 😂 I'm having this problem for well over 6 months now. It won't start in the morning but after driven it a while it starts good. And I think in the summer it starts also but I forgot if this is still the case. Bad memory 😬"
To clarify, are you saying that it won't start in the morning (the air temperature must go up later in the day), or, it won't start in the morning with the electric starter but it will start with the kick starter, or, something else?
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Post by lovetorepairmybrain on Nov 26, 2020 13:02:19 GMT -5
No I mean it won't start electric when cold but always starts kickstart ❄️ after trying a few times
So what what aero is saying is that I must have an electrical issue. Because my battery is not okay in volts. But it's only 10 months old. 🔋
I stil have to test the volt when cranking if it fails below 10volt
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Post by aeroxbud on Nov 26, 2020 13:45:03 GMT -5
A battery could be toast in car less than a year. So much depends on use, and storage. A good battery, fully charged should be over 13v. Sometimes a cell might die. It will read good voltage. Check it By watching the drop when starting. If it goes below 9V at any point. It needs replacing.
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Post by lovetorepairmybrain on Nov 26, 2020 14:57:53 GMT -5
Hi. Yes I will. I also have 0.004 amps on the negative cable/ to negative screw of the battery. Maybe I have a drain. Somewhere But I'm going to test it now
Yes I will also do so tomorrow when it's cold. And maybe I can send a sound file of the startmotor sound. Maybe it needs a little oil 🤔 but okay let's test
I just tested it and it drops to. It's only between 11v and 12v volt I can't see it starts in a second so I have to see tomorrow in cold morning.
So perhaps multiple problems?
But it won't go under 11v. So the battery is semi good? 🧓
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Post by lovetorepairmybrain on Nov 26, 2020 19:03:07 GMT -5
A battery could be toast in car less than a year. So much depends on use, and storage. A good battery, fully charged should be over 13v. Sometimes a cell might die. It will read good voltage. Check it By watching the drop when starting. If it goes below 9V at any point. It needs replacing. HI and thanks for everything!!!! By the way I just tested the connector going to the reqtifier but it only gives yellow wire 20vac and white wire 35vac. The red and green wire don't give ac at all. So it must be the Rectifier I think. And I also get 14. 6v dc from the reqtifier red wire to the battery so there must be a problem in between.
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Post by lovetorepairmybrain on Nov 27, 2020 12:33:03 GMT -5
Well I finally tested voltages that goes from my stator to the reqtifier. Turns out that I only have 2 out of 4 wires with ac voltage on them instead of 3 or more. It's the yellow and white one. The others give none to almost none reading.
so I think I'm missing an ac wire and that this could be the problem why it won't start in the morning cold.
But I think we solved it. New stator but I need a tool first
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Nov 27, 2020 13:32:16 GMT -5
The yellow & white are unregulated AC from the stator. They are regulated and rectified. The red wire is DC voltage to re-charge the battery and to run the cluster lights & gauges. The other output is for the headlight, I think, in most. I think it is regulated to prevent bulb burnout when the rpms are high. Y=ac W=ac G=ground R=12vdc Hmm. Well maybe the headlight gets plain ol' unreg AC. Pretty sure the battery runs the tail/stop light. tom
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Post by lovetorepairmybrain on Nov 27, 2020 14:02:20 GMT -5
Thank you so much. I just found out that that the black red wire that goes to the stator is 991 ohms but it's 450 ohms now so something is wrong the manual says It should not exceed 450ohms and the other manual says it should not exceed 600 ohms. Which one should I believe? I don't have a manual for this particular scooter and can't find one online at all. Thanks finally I can rest now that I know what the problem is haha This is how my scooter sounds when it slowly dies at 13.40v filebin.net/qxrut5bcuz9phaft/20201127_225904_motor_turns_off_1.m4a?t=45yan1yrIt's a m4a sound file orsomething
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Post by lovetorepairmybrain on Nov 27, 2020 19:36:26 GMT -5
The yellow & white are unregulated AC from the stator. They are regulated and rectified. The red wire is DC voltage to re-charge the battery and to run the cluster lights & gauges. The other output is for the headlight, I think, in most. I think it is regulated to prevent bulb burnout when the rpms are high. Y=ac W=ac G=ground R=12vdc Hmm. Well maybe the headlight gets plain ol' unreg AC. Pretty sure the battery runs the tail/stop light. tom Yes that is correct. It regulates everything. Thank you whoever made that possible. So I can drive without having to be worried about that. It's a much nicer drive time then. Going to put this in it
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Post by lovetorepairmybrain on Dec 1, 2020 17:53:38 GMT -5
Been busy all week. Omg need more testing tomorrow till my brain explodes
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