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Post by drewzard6688 on Aug 25, 2021 13:54:26 GMT -5
Thank you! I’m trying to stay active and not revert back to lurking lol. Got tires on both bikes a few months ago. I’ve put a few hundred miles on my bike and started to make YouTube videos and Instagram content (name is “the scooter cult”). I’ve also been working a new job and have finally ordered new belts, a new polini variatior with a matching opposite face, along with clutch springs and a Kevlar yasuni r pipe. I’ve had a bunch of Aliexpress jets and sliders (that fit the polini variator) sitting on my tool box for months. I’m hoping to get the thing tuned up and running well ASAP but I’m pretty busy with work and stuff. Hopefully I can make some quality “how to” content for the YouTube. I hope to also have some cool merch soon too, stickers, shirts, hats, lanyards, etc. it’s all going to be fun and a little off beat, a fun way to show off scooter love.
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Post by geoffh on Aug 25, 2021 14:42:19 GMT -5
Scooter love? Or just an angle to move "merch" your video on replacing the headlight does not show that,you just change out the bulb,my bulbs have never dimmed over time just bust or kept going,there is more then enough misleading info out there please don't,t add to pile.
Geoff
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Post by drewzard6688 on Aug 25, 2021 15:42:27 GMT -5
That was my first time ever putting a video together so I wanted to just start with something simple. It might not be that noticeable with lower power scooter headlights but bulbs definitely put out less light over time, A quick google search can confirm that.
I’ve got some other videos planned that are a little more advanced, but if you’re already on forums you have a pretty good resource and probably have a pretty good grasp on the workings of a scoot.
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Post by ghostaroni on Aug 26, 2021 12:50:17 GMT -5
for your build to not be tempermental, you really need to replace every part with one intended for the purpose.
stock ride, stock parts. race ride, race parts.
but if you start building on a stock crank, you absolutely will have problems.
it's all or nothing with scooters.
On that note, I am totally using a stock clutch on my fully built motor.
malossi yellow contra spring, ncy 1k rpm clutch springs, but stock bell and clutch. Eventually it will probably blow up; unless I get the high rpm clutch bells.
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Post by ghostaroni on Aug 26, 2021 12:56:05 GMT -5
so literally every scooter channel ever?
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Post by drewzard6688 on Sept 18, 2021 13:38:09 GMT -5
So I got a lot of the parts in. Installed the polini variator and front pulley, polini belt as well. The Yasuni R exhaust with the restrictions removed.
I first ran with a 75 main jet and it was just super fat, smoking quite a bit. Re-jetted to a 70 and it still seems a little fat, but after a 20 mile ride I would call it acceptable. Temps never got over 260 so I think I need to order some smaller jets and try again. It was pretty cool out when I rode so maybe I will retest on a warmer day as well.
I enriched the needle 1 step, need to trial and error it too see if this is indeed the ideal setting, after the main jet is sorted.
The pipe seems to make power at ~7500rpm and with polini green clutch springs takeoff is at ~6000rpm and its kinda boggy off the line.
I got a few sets of sliders from aliexpress, shoulda weighed them to verify the indicated mass, but the 5.5g ones have me shifting at ~8000rpm.
My main headache is the idle adjustment. The carb seems to have very unreliable reaction to the mix adjustment. I can turn the screw, blip the throttle, and check the rpm over and over from 1.5 turns out to 3 turns out and its almost no difference in idle rpm when trying to hunt for the mixture that gives the highest rpm. At around 3 turns out the bike starts running away and just tries to keep revving. I turned it to about 2 turns out and throttle response is decent and the rpm returns to idle speed quickly, but I noticed at lights sometimes the rpm would hover around 2600-3000rpm until I pull both brakes then it drops back to 1800rpm. maybe the electrical draw causes the rpm to drop back to 1800rpm where its set?
Gps says I hit 53mph. I had a little hill assistance. Cruises 47mph on the flat WOT.
Anyone else have a headache with a seemingly unresponsive idle mix on the factory carb? I'm tempted to get a wideband but that's a good bit of $$ and I don't love the idea of drilling and welding a bung on the great looking exhaust.
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Post by Zino on Sept 18, 2021 21:35:14 GMT -5
I bet you would like stiffer clutch springs even better I am running the polini greens with the malossi wild lion and that pipes power band starts a lot lower
I am runnig a 70 Mikuni jet in the stock Carb and it is a notch rich in summer and perfect in Fall. My idle mixture screw is about 2 1/2 turns out and it is noticeably rich if I put it at 1/1/2 time out So double check for air leaks
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Post by drewzard6688 on Sept 19, 2021 8:41:27 GMT -5
Swapped in the polini yellows and the takeoff is snappier. Might even try the blues just to see how I like them.
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Post by drewzard6688 on Sept 30, 2021 14:16:06 GMT -5
Found an air leak before the carb, the rubber for the air inlet on the back of the airbox was trapped in-between both halves of the airbox. Couldn't see it when I had put it all back together. Still boggy off the line with the blue springs, and I've noticed a bit of oil on the exhaust. It won't get hotter than 155*F even after a long ride (wondering if the amazon cht sensor has already crapped out), and I've noticed that it can get really boggy after getting warm from a longer ride, sometimes it won't accelerate until hitting a bit of downhill road. When the bike has cooled off I'm going to check the plug. I have some smaller jets coming in the mail. Still cruising at 46-47mph on flats.
edit: amazon cht sensor probe had crapped out.
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Post by Zino on Oct 1, 2021 8:11:18 GMT -5
Good catch on the air leak they are deadly When your tuning for a awhile You can tell by the sound and feel if you are going rich or lean . It sounds like you are running a touch rich because its boggy when it warms up.
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Post by ghostaroni on Oct 2, 2021 20:38:42 GMT -5
So I got a lot of the parts in. Installed the polini variator and front pulley, polini belt as well. The Yasuni R exhaust with the restrictions removed. I first ran with a 75 main jet and it was just super fat, smoking quite a bit. Re-jetted to a 70 and it still seems a little fat, but after a 20 mile ride I would call it acceptable. Temps never got over 260 so I think I need to order some smaller jets and try again. It was pretty cool out when I rode so maybe I will retest on a warmer day as well. I enriched the needle 1 step, need to trial and error it too see if this is indeed the ideal setting, after the main jet is sorted. The pipe seems to make power at ~7500rpm and with polini green clutch springs takeoff is at ~6000rpm and its kinda boggy off the line. I got a few sets of sliders from aliexpress, shoulda weighed them to verify the indicated mass, but the 5.5g ones have me shifting at ~8000rpm. My main headache is the idle adjustment. The carb seems to have very unreliable reaction to the mix adjustment. I can turn the screw, blip the throttle, and check the rpm over and over from 1.5 turns out to 3 turns out and its almost no difference in idle rpm when trying to hunt for the mixture that gives the highest rpm. At around 3 turns out the bike starts running away and just tries to keep revving. I turned it to about 2 turns out and throttle response is decent and the rpm returns to idle speed quickly, but I noticed at lights sometimes the rpm would hover around 2600-3000rpm until I pull both brakes then it drops back to 1800rpm. maybe the electrical draw causes the rpm to drop back to 1800rpm where its set? Gps says I hit 53mph. I had a little hill assistance. Cruises 47mph on the flat WOT. Anyone else have a headache with a seemingly unresponsive idle mix on the factory carb? I'm tempted to get a wideband but that's a good bit of $$ and I don't love the idea of drilling and welding a bung on the great looking exhaust. trim your pilot jet before you trim your main.
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Post by drewzard6688 on Mar 20, 2022 10:27:14 GMT -5
So the mixture at wot has been resolved for a minute and the weather is pretty good again so I’ve been riding. My cvt could use some refinement. With the polini supplied contra spring I noticed that there was a lot of heat building up on longer rides and occasionally some smell from the belt. Good bit of belt dust but the belt looks intact. So I put the factory contra on. With my 5.5g sliders and the stock contra my cvt is shifting at 7000rpm, below the power band. And on take off the rpm shoot to 9k on takeoff then settle down to the 7k rpm it shifts at. The performance is underwhelming because the shifting is all done when you hit the powerband. Decent acceleration but the pipe comes on at 7700-8000 rpm and that’s where the torque is. Some uphill stuff is a real slow slog threw the low rpm. I have some 4.5g sliders coming in the mail. I weigh about 140lbs if thats a significant factor in cvt setup. I know the answer to keeping the cvt in power band is weights that shift around the peak power rpm, but the quick rpm spike is illusive. I don’t think that it’s belt slip. Need to do some trial and error stuff, wish I had a GoPro because I can’t film my Speedo and tach with one hand while riding. Hope everyone rides safe! - Drew
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pili
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 220
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Post by pili on Mar 20, 2022 20:34:34 GMT -5
I understand not wanting to pull the cylinder off a low mile engine but I did mine at about 500 miles and wished I had done it sooner. I found the 70cc Malossi Sport and a carb rejet to be the best bang for the buck. I'm still running stock exhaust and clutch, 19 years and counting on my '03 Zuma.
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Post by drewzard6688 on Mar 23, 2022 8:25:06 GMT -5
70cc and gears are still on the radar but life has thrown some real curveballs my way so I don’t think I can get them anytime soon.
Yesterday I had new sliders come in the mail and I got a bit of test and tune done. With all stock cvt parts it’s a dog but the “rpm spike/belt slip(?)) is gone. with the Yasuni pipe it just needs way more rpm. Polini variator with the new 4g sliders shot my rpm to the moon and lost top end speed. 1/2 4g & 1/2 5.5g sliders for a weight of ~4.75 has the rpm right at the bottom of the sweet spot, like 7900rpm shift, The power band comes on at 7500.
So the rpm spike comes back with the polini vario. It’s only for a split second. Idle, then gas it up. Takes off and while taking off the rpm briefly heads past the shift rpm, but then settles back into the expected rpm. Maybe not enough belt tension on take off? Or pulley angle is just off enough that it needs a second to put tension on the front half. I wish I could film it! Ride safe- Drew
Edit: put an old Oem belt on and the rev up issue seems to be gone.
Edit again, the rpm rise and fall hasn’t been fixed with the shorter belt it’s just a bit better.
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Post by avinogoodtime on Apr 3, 2022 22:21:13 GMT -5
Any updates? Just picked up a vino 2t a few weeks ago, and can't wait to get started. Don't know where to begin, bit this thread and others have helped.
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