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Post by snowmeiser on Sept 7, 2021 10:57:22 GMT -5
I’m going to try a softer spring as I have a Polini white and lighten up on the weights to see if I can squeeze more top end MPH out of it without losing any bottom. If you have 1000 rpm contra spring do you have to have 1000 rpm clutch weights .
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Post by Zino on Sept 7, 2021 17:14:43 GMT -5
You do not need to up the clutch springs with a stiffer contra Clutch and Contra do not have direct relationship Contra and variator weights counter balance each other Stiffer contra needs heavier weight
Clutch springs Are for take off
The Contra primarily to snug the belt up so it doesnt slip So for a daily rider you go as light as you can that doesnt slip. For Racier builds a stiffer Contra down shifts you quicker for hills and corners when you let off the throttle this causes excessive heat and wear and tear but racers rebuild every race so they dont care .
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Post by snowmeiser on Sept 7, 2021 17:39:49 GMT -5
It’s pretty crazy a few hundred rpm what it does to the temperature . I believe it’s the timing curve in the powerband causing it. Right where the peak torqe must be .good to load the motor there for a short time to accelerate but to get around it for top horsepower and rpm for speed. The stock exhaust was doing it as well when it was bogging only to increase rpm down hill and see it drop. I’m glad you are having the same results and me just having a unicorn.
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Post by snowmeiser on Sept 9, 2021 20:56:52 GMT -5
I installed the Polini white contra spring. It’s tension is right in the middle between the stock spring and the molossi yellow. I also lighten the rollers by .5 gram to test tomorrow. The yellow molossi spring had some minor rubbing,maybe light binding on all of the inside coils which probably explains the rpms came down a couple hundred after it had been driven 100 miles or so. I noticed upon assembly the white Polini spring was a little looser , it fit much better. If that plastic collar gives me any more signs of rubbing I will take .010 off the diameter in a lathe
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Post by snowmeiser on Sept 30, 2021 13:40:20 GMT -5
Would anybody have recommendations for jetting a stock 2020 roughhouse with a Yasuni Z exhaust? IE: main jet ,pilot jet and needle? Thanks
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Post by Zino on Sept 30, 2021 17:35:39 GMT -5
For stock carb with the ncy expansion pipe stock air box 95 or a 90 main jet is where most are at . pilot 38 or 40
The needle you can shim it with a small washer .
Or you can compensate for shimming on the needle by being a notch rich on the pilot . That is what we did on the non adjustable zuma carb on the 2008 -2011 model went up one pilot size and dialed the main in right
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Post by snowmeiser on Sept 30, 2021 19:40:27 GMT -5
Thanks Zino I will start with that. I bought the molossi sport 70cc kit. I figure I would practice on the stock cylinder first . Then I think I will put the molossi kit on and go back to the Polini speed exhaust before I put the Yasuni Z back on . My goal is to keep the rpm down and get the most power out of it. I’m not really looking for all out speed . I would like to do 40-45 up hills and maybe hit 50 on flats. Mainly travel with traffic without being in the way and to keep it reliable. How are the 70cc sport kits on gas. How many miles per tankful ?
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Post by Zino on Sept 30, 2021 22:11:41 GMT -5
Snow you and I are working through the same build . We will both end up with malossi cylinders paired with yasuni pipes .
It is a good idea to get the jetting right with the stock cylinder it really doesnt change much at all with a 70 cc . As far as Mpg I didnt really notice much difference going from 70cc to 50cc maybe 5mpg .
Pipes are what cause the biggest jetting changes .
As far as mph The Yasuni R by itself pushed me to high 40's with stock cylinder . Paired with a 70cc breaking 50 will be easy enough .
Just get lighter weights than you run now and stiffer clutch springs since the power band starts higher so you can fully max out the Z.
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