|
Post by luckyluch on Jul 19, 2021 17:44:13 GMT -5
Ok let's say swim were to have purchased a scooter because it's the only legal way for him to drive. On a very tight budget and timeframe I wound up with what I think is a 2013 tao tao scooter missing tons of hardware, Airbox, any air filter at all,rear mirrors etc. Regardless it's all I got and I have to get back to work asap to provide for my kids. It drove fine when He dropped it off 3 days ago ran started stopped all lights worked. The next day the blinkers stopped working and it was running funny .. I replaced some hardware and sealed some bad connections. Took it out yesterday morning
Oddest thing... It started and idle fine but would only go about 25 and was bogging down. It then died and wouldn't start at all. I realized fairly quickly the petcock wasn't working right and the filter looks old and shitty.
Went in for a bite to eat came out and the filter was full it fired up by electric start and I took it for a ride it drove the best it has since he dropped it off.. topped out around 38mph (I'm 175) so I put it away happy figuring quick cheap fix... All new fuel and vacuum lines a shutoff and fuel filter....my nephew saw me taking it out by o work on it this am it started right up he made 1 lap around my house and I can't get it to kick start since and even with jumpers the starter only turns over if I jump the regulator? ...regardless I'm getting strong spark plenty of air and I'm guessing fuel. What would change so drastically? Also I wanna upgrade this very lightly for performance and reliability so if u could suggest the best sites and ways to get extra power out of these when they're actually running also what could be my problem? Maybe I can kill 2 birds I'm guessing it needs a carb def air intake filter... Also does it matter to put the new filter before or after the new shutoff when bypassing the petcock? Sorry i know my grammar sux I'm a neeb and a pain. I just need some advice. This thing won't run at all. I'm gonna probably pull the fuel line between the filter and carb just to check that seems dumb but even though it's about 4 inches and AFTER the filter I think it's could be clogged?
Also got a TON of rain the last 2 nights... I've had it under a deck and covered with a tarp and locked but it's still covered in "condensation"? First thing in the am
|
|
|
Post by steve1297 on Jul 19, 2021 18:54:39 GMT -5
The carbs on these are cheap. Just replace it. Get a performance carb with a pod filter, and get rid of the airbox. But it's most likely the carb, and their so cheap I don't bother trying to fix them. As for performance upgrades, start with the carb. You can only get so much out of it without a big bore kit, but a DLH or NYC variator is going to make an improvement. Amazon, or Scooters To Go.
|
|
|
Post by steve1297 on Jul 19, 2021 18:57:47 GMT -5
Oh, and replace the belt.get a good Bando or comparable brand
|
|
|
Post by captincvmn on Jul 20, 2021 5:55:59 GMT -5
Don’t be too quick to delete that air box. Many of the regulars here will say the airbox is a good idea. You already know that you had a fuel issue so you may want to continue tracking that down. Did you replace the vacuum petcock with another vacuum petcock? If not it could be flooding when it sits. You can check for water in the fuel by draining the bowl on the carburetor into a cup and looking at it. A new property gap spark plug can also help remove some issues when they are minor.
I let someone else ride my bike for five minutes and after that I could not get it to start no matter what. I tried a lot of different things and it was the kill switch on the handle bar. I never use it. The person I let ride it shut the bike off with the kill switch on the handle bar and I overlooked it. 30 minutes of troubleshooting down the drain for a factory switch that was used properly. Double check the kill switch on the handle bar.
|
|
|
Post by luckyluch on Jul 20, 2021 13:52:51 GMT -5
Update... Keep in mind I have no garage or good designated work space just a decent set of screwdrivers a socket set and pliers..
Knowing without a bench and part bowls etc. I figured I had nothing to lose trying to clean the carb myself. Not surprised based off the looks of the fuel filter the bowl was full of rusted bits of metal as well as throughout. My pilot jet was pretty clogged I cleared it and sprayed it all down. However when starting to reassemble I noticed I lost the spring and "sleeve" to lifter looking needle.
So I put it back as is but without the accelerator pump pieces. I wasn't gonna bother even trying to start it sure enough it almost fired right up! When sitting and I very very slowly increase the throttle it will rev higher but when I'm on it and try driving it it falls right on its face unless I give it a little bit of throttle and it will ride around 3-5mph but feels hollow. Is this all the accelerator pump? It is what seems to be the stock carb. BUt someone drilled the screws out which made it easier a new carb would obviously fix this properly tuned (also does anyone have specific name brands or model#s for decent ones?)
The fuel and vacuum lines are older also 2 different sizes. It looks like a stock petcock which like I said I've had issues with it sticking as well as the filter being old and full of junk. Obviously I want the cleanest fuel going into a new carb. So my goal by the end of tonight or 1st thing is finally getting the new lines and bypassing the vaccum petcock with a regular shutoff and new filter.
Does This type of issue sounds similar to anybody? Obviously I need to do the fuel work so I have no more issues with it going forward but could it somehow be something electrical I don't think it's vacuum-related and if the belt was off I think I would hear it or would have felt it and it wouldn't move at all obviously. So basically after a new fuel lines filter shut off and a good car with a filter I think I should be good running wise My rear brake light is constantly on Could that be a grounding issue? Also the switch used to always work to try and start it when you press and hold it and now every once in a while it works But if I jump the solenoid it turns over so the starter is still good. Do you think the switch is bad Could I have grounding issues Is that what could cause the brake light to stay on or since it has like a little daytime running light almost Is it supposed to have the rear brake light on as a constant?
|
|
|
Post by aeroxbud on Jul 20, 2021 14:09:15 GMT -5
The brake light staying on is probably just the brake light switch. They are connected to the brake levers. It will probably never run good without the accelerator pump working. It injects more fuel at full throttle.
|
|
|
Post by ThaiGyro on Jul 20, 2021 14:28:34 GMT -5
Here is my first thought, regardless of a scoot shelter or not: NEVER leave your petcock in the "ON" position when not running. They will drip, drip, drip. If your carb vent is as plugged as the rest? That drip event goes into the crankcase via gravity. Even if your vent is okay? it is likely higher than your carb-to-case port, (intake) so you still get drippage. (Yes, that is a word...now anyway)
Combine that with a bad float needle? Crankcase full of fuel and oil and dirt and rust.
Even on today's 2T engines...heck even 4T race bikes and cars...they drain the carbs every time the engine overnights. Overkill? On a daily driver, my answer is yes. However, we have multiple scooters and motorcycles...all turned off every use. Drained if no use planned.
You will question that now, but thank me someone, when you are 65.
|
|
|
Post by luckyluch on Jul 20, 2021 15:13:36 GMT -5
Yeah but that cock is the original vacuum pump operated one I want to switch it is what I'm saying because the filter is bad and the lines look like one is 3/16 and one's a quarter so I just want new fresh lines and the filter especially before I put a new carb In... Even if that's not the entire problem
|
|
|
Post by luckyluch on Jul 20, 2021 15:23:59 GMT -5
Also I really want to order a carb ASAP so I can get it tomorrow or the next day at the latest but I need to know what the largest air intake and manifold intake How many millimeters can those be open and what is obviously ideal and is it one set size or what
|
|
|
Post by captincvmn on Jul 20, 2021 16:18:40 GMT -5
Try and replace what you have with identical items. Too many simultaneous changes can make tuning or problem solving very difficult.
|
|
|
Post by steve1297 on Jul 20, 2021 17:59:28 GMT -5
Just get an 18mm CVK performance carb and pod filter. Look for "upgraded jets" in the description. "Performance carb for 139qmb scooter". Type that in search bar on Amazon
|
|
|
Post by steve1297 on Jul 20, 2021 18:01:41 GMT -5
Update... Keep in mind I have no garage or good designated work space just a decent set of screwdrivers a socket set and pliers.. Knowing without a bench and part bowls etc. I figured I had nothing to lose trying to clean the carb myself. Not surprised based off the looks of the fuel filter the bowl was full of rusted bits of metal as well as throughout. My pilot jet was pretty clogged I cleared it and sprayed it all down. However when starting to reassemble I noticed I lost the spring and "sleeve" to lifter looking needle. So I put it back as is but without the accelerator pump pieces. I wasn't gonna bother even trying to start it sure enough it almost fired right up! When sitting and I very very slowly increase the throttle it will rev higher but when I'm on it and try driving it it falls right on its face unless I give it a little bit of throttle and it will ride around 3-5mph but feels hollow. Is this all the accelerator pump? It is what seems to be the stock carb. BUt someone drilled the screws out which made it easier a new carb would obviously fix this properly tuned (also does anyone have specific name brands or model#s for decent ones?) The fuel and vacuum lines are older also 2 different sizes. It looks like a stock petcock which like I said I've had issues with it sticking as well as the filter being old and full of junk. Obviously I want the cleanest fuel going into a new carb. So my goal by the end of tonight or 1st thing is finally getting the new lines and bypassing the vaccum petcock with a regular shutoff and new filter. Does This type of issue sounds similar to anybody? Obviously I need to do the fuel work so I have no more issues with it going forward but could it somehow be something electrical I don't think it's vacuum-related and if the belt was off I think I would hear it or would have felt it and it wouldn't move at all obviously. So basically after a new fuel lines filter shut off and a good car with a filter I think I should be good running wise My rear brake light is constantly on Could that be a grounding issue? Also the switch used to always work to try and start it when you press and hold it and now every once in a while it works But if I jump the solenoid it turns over so the starter is still good. Do you think the switch is bad Could I have grounding issues Is that what could cause the brake light to stay on or since it has like a little daytime running light almost Is it supposed to have the rear brake light on as a constant? This is my thought on the air box: When you go running, do you bring a snorkel to breathe through?
|
|
jtalk
Scoot Member
Posts: 28
Location: Wisconsin
|
Post by jtalk on Jul 20, 2021 21:10:21 GMT -5
If the carb looked that bad and the filter too. I would recommend replacing the carb, getting clear fuel lines, fuel filter, and a new petcock also.
|
|