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Post by mk1jordan on Jul 27, 2021 6:14:50 GMT -5
Hi, recently I rebuilt my gilera stalker with the stage 6 sport pro mk2 cylinder and a stage 6 pro replica crankshaft. I ran it for about a week before it seized (wasn't pushing it hard at the time). Since then I have tried fixing and cleaning the piston and barrel. This worked but did not hold up for long and if you gave it too much throttle then it would seize again. I have since fitted a sport 50cc cylinder to use currently and have changed the needle to make the fuel richer and have also added a fair amount extra 2 Stroke oil to try and prevent it from seizing however this did not work and now my 50cc kit is ruined aswell. So what should I check for now as I would rather not buy another cylinder just to seize it the next day again.
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Post by aeroxbud on Jul 27, 2021 7:00:22 GMT -5
You don't mention anything about changing the jetting. That is a must do.
By adding more oil, you are also making it run hotter. It's the fuel that cools the cylinder. More oil, equals less fuel.
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Post by Zino on Jul 27, 2021 7:54:16 GMT -5
Seizing is because of over heating .
On these air cooled 2 strokes the proper fuel mixture provides 80 % of the cooling effect .
You are running high revving cylinder/pipe combo most stock carbs cannot provide enough volume of cooling mixture at part throttle so it is easy to seize .
Do you have a temp gauge it would really protect your investment ?
Most use the 350 degree main jet rule .
Find the the jet that maintains a level tempature below 350 degrees on long wide open runs (3-5 miles is what I use to test)
It also helps you see temp spikes as you come off throttle or if you develop air leaks .
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Post by geoffh on Jul 27, 2021 7:55:23 GMT -5
In addition to aerox,s comments you need to run a temp gauge,most people go premix with 70 kit,if this is your first tune consider a cast iron kit which are a bit more forgiving than alloy.
Geoff
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